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Tablesaw station design questions

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Forum topic by athomas5009 posted 04-09-2015 05:19 AM 993 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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athomas5009

293 posts in 1078 days


04-09-2015 05:19 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question maple tablesaw

Some time in the next couple months I plan on building a station for my Cman 113 contractors saw. I’m really like the one featured in shopnotes and plan to build something similar to this (pic attached). The only real difference in how I would like to build it is I’d like to keep the cast iron wings attached and I’d also like to enlarge to top surface to a full 4’x8’. I would really love to add about 1’ of work surface to the left of blade, 14” to the rear, 6” to the front and 6’ ft to the right of the blade. In order to do this My thoughts are to cut a rectangle the deminsions of the t/s from the rear in 1.5” MDF so the tablesAw and wings would be to the left/center with about a 1’ gap in the rear the would be filled with removeable panel. The surface would be wrapped in perhaps some q/s 8/4 maple.

My worries and questions are how difficult would it be to get the saw squared up to the surface? This is probably critical because my fence would be attached to the surface and not the iron top itself. Also would this effect the accuracy of my fence? Also add any othe thoughts and concerns.

Andrew

-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.


5 replies so far

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1059 posts in 3074 days


#1 posted 04-09-2015 10:42 AM

Just a couple of thoughts and I don’t know how useful they will be. I fought similar concerns when I built an extension for my table saw:

I don’t know how well it shows up in this picture. I took a clue from the original wings on my table saw. They actually have a slight chamfer on the edges that mate to the main table. On all edges for that matter. I put the same degree of chamfer on all edges of my table extension, too.

This helps if there is a slight mismatch between the tables. It doesn’t leave a sharp 90 degree edge that will catch boards as you slide them across the boundary between the extensions. By the same token, the chamfer on the leading edge keeps boards from catching as you slide boards into the table while cutting. Without the chamfer, I think that the laminate I surfaced the extension with would have been chipped and broken at the edges many times by now.

As for your alignment issues – everything must be referenced to the miter slots on the original table top. The blade aligns parallel to the miter slots and the fence must be aligned parallel to the miter slots. Keep the fence guide rail straight and true then use the adjustment included on every fence to set the guideface of the fence parallel to the miter slots. I don’t think it matters so much that the fence rail is absolutely square to the miter slots unless the angle is very far off of 90 degrees.

Good luck!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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athomas5009

293 posts in 1078 days


#2 posted 04-10-2015 09:25 PM

Yeah Im pretty sure I over thinking it. As long as I build it all square, parrellel and perpendicular any minute differences should be adjustable.

-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5173 posts in 2655 days


#3 posted 04-11-2015 02:43 PM

If you would like another idea about a saw station, and maybe a little different design, go to my blog and read
  • “A new look for an old workhorse” **, and it will show you what I did to improve mine a couple of years ago..

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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athomas5009

293 posts in 1078 days


#4 posted 04-22-2015 03:13 AM

Nice station Rick, I have a little time before I start mine so I’ve been looking at lots of others on the web. My final decision will probably be influenced by time and money as well.

This past weekend I did begin the first leg of the process though. My saw had a lot of runout from bad pulleys, possible a damaged arbor from the pulleys and 2 broke hand wheels. So I totally stripped her down on Friday, polished all the innerds, had a friend / machinist true up the arbor, new bearings, pulleys, painted the rough cast innerds white (top included), re lubed everything, replaced any other worn oem parts and all new nuts, bolts and washers. I just started putting it all back together tonight.

Once I’m finished in a cpl days I’ll install the pals and give her an alignment, check for runout and take her for a ride. This alone should make a world of difference and make things in the shop more enjoyable. In about a month comes the new fence. I’m probably going to pull the trigger on the Vega Pro 50”. Then I’ll probably start the saw/router station sometime in June.

-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.

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athomas5009

293 posts in 1078 days


#5 posted 04-28-2015 09:20 AM

Well I finally got everything back together over the weekend. It took a lil more work than I expected especially aligning the trunions. The PALS helped out with the rears but just my luck the front needed adjusting as well so I moved one of the PALS to the front.

With the up grades run out at the arbor was 0, alignment @ 90 was with in .001, alignment at 45 was .003 and overall runout was .003. This is the best the saw has ever run all you hear is the engine and almost no vibration. In the end I think it will be worth the effort.

-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.

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