Adding a router table to my table saw

Hi Ethan.
I don’t know if you have fine woodworking internet subscription, so I looked up router tables. The table shown maybe can be adapted to your saw. Check this out.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesDirectory.aspx?dir=Making+Shop+Tools

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I added to my Delta table extension and am very happy. I’m sure others with more experience will have details but my setup uses the “outside” of the Bies fence as a movable but stable fence. To that I attached a fence I made with a dust collection port and finger boards. I used the Quick Lift from Woodpecker and am VERY happy with it – rapid height changes and easy bit changes. I routed a slot and put a T track on the outside edge parallel to the fence. Nothing fancy, but I’m happy.

I also have the Ridgid 3650 and am working on building a router insert into mine as well. Although I am designing mine somewhat differently, I took some of my inspiration from this post (about half-way down, posted by Tampa Tom)
“http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/viewtopic.php?t=11338&highlight=“

As far as mine, I picked up some angle stock from HD and am attaching the melamine insert to the angle stock with bolts for leveling. It’s hard to describe so I’ll see if I can post pics once I finish it.

Z

-- Maximize - Your Time, Your Experiencies, Your Life, Yourself!

Hey, that would be awesome! I also found a guy up in Maine who has the RIDGID 3650 and he sent me some info on his… I’ll quote it below.

“The modification is actually quite simple. I removed the brace rod from the
extension arms and then cut a piece of 3/4” melamine to fit between them. I
then drove four pan head screws (I forget the size, but it’s easy enough to
see when you look at the grooves) in the edges of the melamine and slid them
into the grooves on the inside of the extension arms. I then reinstalled
the brace rod (although I found later that I didn’t really need it, the
screws can be used to adjust the tension). I then used a template to route
out an opening for my commercially available (from Rockler) router insert
and Viola!”

“I’d suggest that you have the vendor drill the appropriate holes for your
router in the table insert as I’ve had a few problems with centering on my
self attempt. With the saw’s dolly mechanism it’s nice to be able to wheel
the whole thing around the shop. I leave a router in the setup, so set up &
takedown consists only of mounting or unmounting a router bit. The above
table option would be nice (I don’t have it!) but I found that adjustments
are relatively simple from below with this arrangement.”

“Hope this helps!”

Oh, the place on his website where he has a picture and discussion of his router table is: www.mysticvalleyfarm.biz/my_shop.htm

So that’s what he had to say. His reference to the table insert plate was because I said I would probably make my own. I have the Bosch 1617EVSPK, so I’m going to pick up the router table undermount base that you can adjust from above the table. Of course, I’ll buy it through www.thewoodwhisper.com and use the Amazon store access there to give Marc some business! I might even just go ahead and buy the Bosch router insert, while I’m at it. I like uniformity in things and I’ve found that companies make attachments to go with their tools much better than other companies (with a few minor exceptions).

-- Ethan, http://thekiltedwoodworker.com