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Bailey no. 7 blade question

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Forum topic by rtbrmb posted 04-07-2015 04:33 AM 833 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rtbrmb

468 posts in 1850 days


04-07-2015 04:33 AM

Topic tags/keywords: plane jointer

I inherited a Bailey #7C jointer (Type 11) that is in need of some T.L.C. to get in proper working order.

The markings on the blade are “J.S. MILLER”.

I have searched for a reference but can’t find anything. Can any of the experts in LJ land tell me about this blade?

Thanks in advance.

Bill in MI


6 replies so far

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1351 days


#1 posted 04-07-2015 04:45 AM

Owners stamp. :)

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#2 posted 04-07-2015 05:16 AM

Yup

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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rtbrmb

468 posts in 1850 days


#3 posted 04-07-2015 12:32 PM

I wanted to include a few photos. When I separated the chip breaker & iron I see now that both are stamped. The plane belonged to my fathers step-dad & never left the family & the name doesn’t match his. He was a carpenter in Detroit from the ‘20s through the 50’s. I guess it could have been a replacement blade or maybe he bought the plane used.

Thanks for all the input.

If you look closely on the 1st pic you can see where an attempt to stamp it was made above & to the right of the stamp that contains the entire name.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2190 posts in 942 days


#4 posted 04-07-2015 02:47 PM

The problem is you don’t now the quality of the steel.

If all it needs it a little TLC, then consider yourself fortunate.

You have to know what you’ve got before you know what it needs.

Here’s what I recommend:

1. Check the lever arm for slop and making sure all the moving parts work.

2. Check the sole for flatness. (Be sure to have the blade and cap iron installed and tensioned when doing this.) Place the plane on your ts top and check for warp by rocking the corners.

If its rocking pretty bad, you’re in for a lot of work and/or expense to get it flattened. I’ve heard guys resort to a belt sander (but you’ll probably make it worse). If you take it to a machinist, then you maybe into more money than its worth (especially if you upgrade the blade). But if you can get it done cheap, good.

Check for sides square to sole. If they are not square, you can’t use it to shoot an edge (if that matters to you).

If that checks out then get a scratch pattern on the bottom using 80 grit adhesive back paper on TS top or other dead flat surface. The critical areas are the mouth, the toe and the edges.

If so far so good, then advance to finer grits. I usually stop at 320 wet/dry but you can go further.

If the sole is way out or warped, you’re in for a lot of work/expense may not be worth it.

3. Then address the blade. Check for:

a. Pitting, especially along the cutting edge.
b. Flatness. You can’t get an edge without a flat blade.

If the back is way out of flat, you could be in for hours of honing, in which case I recommend getting a replacement, either a Stanley, or better yet, a Veritas blade/cap iron from Lee Valley.

I’ve restored/refurbished enough of these old planes to know there is a point of diminishing return and you need to know when to quit. But if you can get one working reasonably, you’ve save yourself several $100’s.

My limited experience is the larger planes are more subject to warping and I’ve had to trash a 7 and an 8 because they needed machining to get the soles flat, which I wasn’t willing to invest.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Don W

17960 posts in 2029 days


#5 posted 04-11-2015 08:50 PM

You said it was a type 11 so bailey should be stamped on the bed. If it is, I’d agree with either a replacement blade or previous owner stamp.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View unbob's profile (online now)

unbob

718 posts in 1365 days


#6 posted 04-12-2015 03:09 AM

In my mixed era of Bailey planes, the type 11 to 13 ones tend to be a better cast iron.
Jointer planes do tend to have more warp problems “in my experience” due to the length and width. With #8 perhaps being the worst.

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