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Need suggestions for mouting wall cabinets to steel studs

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Forum topic by tooldad posted 1868 days ago 4957 views 1 time favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tooldad

657 posts in 2341 days


1868 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: steel stud drywall mounting cabinet

I really haven’t had the opportunity to mount wall cabinets to steel studs in my past. Any suggestions? I want to build a 30” tall by 80” long set of uppers for my office rather than having to have a hutch with dividers on my desk. The cabinets will have some notebooks and office supplies in them, so they will have a some weight. There is standard drywall on the wall.

Thanks for any suggestions.


17 replies so far

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TopamaxSurvivor

14721 posts in 2302 days


#1 posted 1868 days ago

I use #10 1-1/2” tek screws (self drilling tip) to mount all kinds of electrical stuff on them all the time. Most of the weight will be shear, so they will hold a lot.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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ahock

102 posts in 1950 days


#2 posted 1868 days ago

I’d do a 1×4 french cleat with 2 2” screws in each stud.

-- Andy, PA ~Finding satisfaction in creation

View Greg Wurst's profile

Greg Wurst

781 posts in 2458 days


#3 posted 1868 days ago

I’ll second the french cleat idea. It’s a great way to hang cabinets.

-- You're a unique and special person, just like everyone else.

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tomakazi

645 posts in 1909 days


#4 posted 1868 days ago

french cleat for sure

-- I didn't go to college, I was too busy learning stuff - Ted Nugent

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James

162 posts in 1907 days


#5 posted 1868 days ago

Just make sure you don’t spin them out when you are driving them in and you’ll be fine.

-- James, Bluffton, IN

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TopamaxSurvivor

14721 posts in 2302 days


#6 posted 1868 days ago

ahock, et al, the studs are hollow for all practical purposes. All you are screwing into is the sheetrock and 16 gauge sheet metal. 1” teks are a bit short on 5/8 rock due to the amount of space taken by the drill point, l -1/4” will do the job of holding a thin metal bracket. Beyond that, you need to allow for the thickness of the hanger material. They are not like wood studs at all.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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tooldad

657 posts in 2341 days


#7 posted 1868 days ago

Thanks guys. I use the cleat system when I am hanging upper cabinets in a house for the simple reason it is easier to level and hold a cleat, than it is to level and hold a cabinet.

Again appreciate the advice.

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lew

9992 posts in 2381 days


#8 posted 1868 days ago

That’s a pretty large cabinet and when filled, it is going to be heavy.

I would opt for Moly Bolts to hold the French Cleat. They will never pull out or shear off and you don’t have to worry about striping the threads in the thin sheet metal stud.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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Bob #2

3808 posts in 2648 days


#9 posted 1868 days ago

I had a hanging bookcase come down off steel studs a few years back.
Not a pretty picture.
I popped the drywall and ran 3/4” plywood between the studs and anchored the wight on a 2×4 cripple under each side and middle.
Back up with the dry wall and used a french cleat.
It’s still up and over loaded with books as is the usual problem. ;-)

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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James Early

48 posts in 2274 days


#10 posted 1868 days ago

I too cast my vote for French Cleats.

-- -- Jim E., Oswego, NY. Create, have fun, and work safely!

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14721 posts in 2302 days


#11 posted 1868 days ago

As Bob 2 says, the best way would be to put in backing if you want to open up the wall. The patch job behind the book case wouldn’t have to be very pretty until it is removed:-)) If yoi opened up a hole a bit under 30”, it would cover and you could slip in some 2×3’s, screw them in the metal studs. That would hold forever!!

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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ahock

102 posts in 1950 days


#12 posted 1867 days ago

Topamax, I wasn’t discounting your screw suggestion; I was thinking of going through a 3/4” cleat, 5/8” drywall, and into the stud. Well…after doing the math (which is helpful sometimes) 1 1/2” would work just as well as 2”.

-- Andy, PA ~Finding satisfaction in creation

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doyoulikegumwood

384 posts in 2618 days


#13 posted 1867 days ago

just another thing to go with this is snap toggler’s they hold up to 350lbs on 5/8 drywall if you put these threw the drywall and the stud you will have a very sound method for mounting.

here’s a link for them they sell them at the borg store.
http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

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TopamaxSurvivor

14721 posts in 2302 days


#14 posted 1867 days ago

ahock, I thought yoiu didn’t know they were basically hollow, thinking more like a wood stud.

I have used the togglers to run conduit, hang small panels ect. I still like to hit a steell stud every once in a while or one side of a panel. A little bit of moisture and sheet rock goes to mush!! :-((

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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doyoulikegumwood

384 posts in 2618 days


#15 posted 1867 days ago

topa i understand wanting to hit a stud how i use to use these when installing office fixtures was you drill the pilot hole threw the drywall and the stud and then insert the toggler so it is behind both and then also put togglers between each stud on an 80” cabinet i would use somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 to 10 togglers

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

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