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Attaching solid wood drawer fronts to solid wood drawers

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Forum topic by RS Woodworks posted 07-08-2009 06:31 AM 4980 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RS Woodworks

533 posts in 2718 days


07-08-2009 06:31 AM

Topic tags/keywords: drawer fronts attach false

What is the best way to attach solid wood false drawer fronts to drawers made of soild wood?
The drawers are yellow birch and the drawer fronts are walnut.
I assume I have to allow for movement somehow?
I was going to use double side tape to temporarily attach the false fronts to get them all lined up, but the should I just screw the fronts on from the inside of the drawer? Should I use oversize pilot holes?

Thanks.

Boom

-- I restore the finest vintage tools! If you need a nice plane, saw, marking tool or brace, please let me know!


8 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3043 days


#1 posted 07-08-2009 06:39 AM

Hey Boom
That’s the way a lot of kitchen cabinets are done with furniture they are usually are one piece but can be glued together but with unlike woods the wood movement my differ an create a slight possibility of glue separation .

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View wchips's profile

wchips

314 posts in 2554 days


#2 posted 12-24-2009 04:39 AM

If there are pulls on the drawers , 1 drill holes for the pulls on the drawer fronts. 2 align the drawer fronts on the drawer then put a temp screw through the holes you drolled for the pulls. 3 remove the drawer from the case and screw the drawer to the front from the inside. Have a nice day Lee

-- wchips

View rcs47's profile

rcs47

182 posts in 2596 days


#3 posted 12-24-2009 04:57 AM

Boom,

I use the method you describe with the double stick tape, oversize holes, and screws. I have used the screws from Woodcraft:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020611/2020611.aspx

The last few I’ve used pan head sheet metal screws, and they’ve worked great.

After I have the front in place, then I attach any pull I plan to use.

Doug

-- Doug - As my Dad taught me, you're not a cabinet maker until you can hide your mistakes.

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 2937 days


#4 posted 12-24-2009 05:09 AM

screws and pulls

View hooky's profile

hooky

364 posts in 2785 days


#5 posted 12-24-2009 05:21 AM

the method you described with oversize pilot holes will work but use 4 screws, one in each corner and only make 2 oversize holes first then align them and then straight screw the other 2 when aligned

now the trick to getting perfectly straight alignment is to start with a very level cupboard and use spacers of the approporiate size for the gap (ie if your after a 3mm (1/16th) gap allround use 3mm mdf strips as spacers

hope this helps

Hooky

ps i have only just realised you asked nearly 5 months ago

hoped it worked out ok

-- Happiness is a way of travel , not a destination (Roy Goodman)

View RS Woodworks's profile

RS Woodworks

533 posts in 2718 days


#6 posted 12-26-2009 04:53 AM

Ha ha. Ya thanks guys. This project was finished a LONG time ago. (you can see it here )Thanks for the reply’s though. You can see I got the faces lined up perfectly.

Ryan

-- I restore the finest vintage tools! If you need a nice plane, saw, marking tool or brace, please let me know!

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2523 posts in 2904 days


#7 posted 12-26-2009 05:13 AM

A kitchen redo book I have says to take an adjacent drawer out, put the drawer in and put the drawer front on in the correct place. Push the drawer out from the back while holding on the drawer front. Mark the location of the front then drill 4 pilot holes and screw them on. I guess that the drawers will not line up with the others if you just try to center them.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 2937 days


#8 posted 12-26-2009 05:26 AM

dang who dragged out this old thread?

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