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How to build a work bench like a Sjoberg.

28K views 46 replies 22 participants last post by  Sanderguy777 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I really need a new work bench. Whenever I use my hand planes, I move the whole bench and I can't use my hold fast cause I don't have a thick enough bench top. I plan to use pine for the whole thing.

I need your ideas on design and advise on the vises especially. I have a cheap vise but it is not the quality, or the size that the nice big benches have. I was looking at a nice fat 1" x 20" bench vise screw, or the cabinet maker's front vise from Grizzly. I don't want to spend all that money but I think it's worth the money for a good solid vise that will last forever.

Do you think that I should use the wimpy vise I have or should I get the front vise?

Basically what I need is a REALLY solid and indestructible bench that will not move when I use my planes on it.
What about storage? I am thinking about cabinets and drawers. I also think that I will use a slanted board or something for the dust and chips that fall through the dog holes.

I also carve so I would like any advise on related accessories.

Thanks
 
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#3 ·
You only want to do this once, so I recommend you do a bit of studying before you get started.
Both Scott Landis and Chris Scwarz have excellent books on the subject.

The workbench is kind of a rite of passage for ww'ers so building it yourself is traditional.

Workbenches can be anything from simple utilitarian devices to works of art, so it depends on what you're philosophy is and what you're going to do with it.

You can buy a workbench, but plan on spending at least $1K for a decent one.
Tops can be made of everything from 4" thick hard maple to laminated sheets of plywood.

Yes, the Roubo is all the rage these days, but personally I don't like the knee vice.
I do like the idea of flush legs to faciliate clamping wide boards vertically for edge work.

Two basic principles apply:

1. A sound, heavy, base structure that will not rack or move.
2. A heavy, thick, durable top that will stand up to hammering, chiselling, etc.

You're finished bench should be weighing in the 200-300 pound range.

As for vices, it depends on the type of bench you decide on.
There are tail vices, shoulder vices, wagon vices, roubo vices, twin screw vices, etc.

The simplest route, and one you're familiar with is the ageless woodworkers vice or front vise.
Personally, I have a Jorgensen on the front of my bench and a Rockler on the end.
Plan on spending $150-$180 for a decent vice.

Jorgenson:


Rockler:


Once you decide on a design, then you need to decide on material.
Personally, I like the Scandinavian (Frank Klausz) type bench with the shoulder vise.
I will eventually build one of hard maple.

I made my bench from a section of bowling alley lane and I made the base of 5×5 pine beams.
I wrapped it with an apron and put my dog holes in.

Table Wood Flooring Building Floor
 

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#5 ·
Very minor technical point.
The Jorgensen vise Robert posted in his thread is a "Face" vise.
A "Front" vise is often made of components to which you add your own faces (jaws).
I never had a front vise that didn't rack and move around.
The face vise, as shown, has always been my preference.
I have two of them; one on the front of my bench and one on the end.
They are great, and I paid less than $100 each for them.

And +1 on the work bench books.
I got the Schwarz books about half way through building my bench and had to back up some.
Excellent books. Very practical advise.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
One of the replies stated "You only want to do this once…", I disagree. A work bench is very personal and the only way to have a bench that fits you is to find what works for you by working on different benches. Books will not do that job. Over the years through many bench builds I've finally built what I expect is my, emphasis on "my", perfect bench. Early benches were built to the fashion of the day and were built to cover all perceived needs. I've found that approach makes a overly "fussy" bench. With each bench build the benches have become simpler and more functional. BTW, I will get to the chase.

Here it is: build it simple, build it stout with good joinery (it is hard to make it too heavy), build it quick, and build it cheap. Once built, go to work on it, once there are enough things about the bench that bug you, build another using the same build it quick and cheap routine. Move the first bench to a secondary position, you always need more benches in a shop, work on the second bench. Wash and repeat.

I've built many more but at this time I have three generations of work benches in my shop, each different but all work as needed. The current bench is as close to perfect as I expect is possible.
 
#7 ·
Another bit of advice, pick up the Chris Schwarz workbench books.
http://smile.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1428069109&sr=8-2&keywords=Chris+Schwarz

http://smile.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428069109&sr=8-1&keywords=Chris+Schwarz

The blue book only has plans for a couple benches the red book has plans for like 10 benches. In both books he says don't bother copying the benches, use them for ideas and come up with what you want in a bench. I'm in the middle of gathering supplies for the Holtzapffel style bench shown in the red book with the vices in the Lang Bench. Another good place to look is on you tube. Paul Sellers and Renaissance WW both have video series on building benches worth checking out.
 
#8 ·
First, may I state that I have never used, but mostly because I don't trust the look, of a Sjorberg. It just looks too lightweight for me, so I would recommend coming up with a design that looks borderline overbuilt. I made mine out of materials from the hardware store: 4×4's for the legs, 2×6's for the stretchers, and 2×4's for the top. I used mortise and tenons, big ones. The legs are drawbored and the stretchers are bolted so that I can break the whole thing down for moving (which came in handy moving from NY to TX last year).

I agree that you will find things that bug you about your first bench. It's just going to happen. How you work will change some over time. That is why am not going to build a bench out of walnut and curly maple for a LONG time, if ever :). I would love one, but I need several years of refining my approach and technique before I want to commit that much cash to a bench.

I recommend storage underneath. I have some drawers and shelves that store sandpaper, measuring and layout tools, fasteners, etc.

As for vises, I bought the LV economy front vise and am satisfied with it, especially for the price.
 
#9 ·
Sjoberg design hybrid is what I am in the process of designing and building. Picked up my vises from Lee Valley, A face vise above a flush leg and of course a tail on the other end. Intend to have a sliding deadman and use holddowns so the dog holes will be 3/4" round. I was lucky enough to get some old dry rough milled Birch at an affordable price and have been collecting some other hard woods for vice faces. IMHO the most important thing is do not rush into it, take your time and enjoy every detail of the build. Also great excuse to buy more tools that you may need for the build!
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
I did the Chris Schwarz SYP bench, ripping floor joists for the top, 2×6's for legs (doubled) and stretchers. I used a Woodriver Large Front Vise ($74.99) for the end vise and Small Front Vise ($52.49) for the front vise. About as cheap, sturdy, and durable as you can get for your first homemade bench. There are lots of interesting vises out there: Moxon, Tail Vise, wagon vise, Leg Vise, etc. I decided to go with the 2 WoodRiver vises because it got me up and going the fastest. When I make a new bench (no time soon), I'll reconsider what vises I have.



 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
This book has a large section of it dedicated to talking about different bench type operations and explores the different work holding options. It's probably the best reference I have read to date on work holding options.

http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428072687&sr=8-1&keywords=workbenches+schwarz

I didn't realize it until I looked it up this morning but if you are a Amazon Prime member you can read the book for free.

Personally I would say making a bench with a stable base and good heavy top is more important than your work holding options. My current bench is based around the cantilevered leg design build out of construction grade 4X6's. I consider it a temporary bench but it is rock solid and is working a lot better than I thought it would. it's miles ahead of the bench's I had before which the legs where to flimsy and the top to thin to really support hand work. They where good machine shop benches but horrible hand tool ones.

Something like this except not able to be taken apart. http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/wMyers/moravianBench/moravianBench-01.asp
 
#12 ·
Workbenches are funny things. There are a wide variety of designs and certainly Chris Schwartz has popularized some over others and been writing a lot about his latest ones which match his wood working style. Some of the above mentioned threads can also be overwhelming. I have a cheapy light weight one which works 'well enough for now' but I plan on something like Paul Sellers design. Since you mention pine, this would be an option for you.

Part 1-11 are here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD39949332C7FB168

If you watch his other videos you can get an idea for how he works an decide if that matches or is close enough to how you work.
 
#13 ·
I found a local guy who had some de-commissioned workbench tops. I guess they came out of a school or factory or something. Anyway, I made the led and stretcher structure and have an awesome workbench that went together pretty fast - compared to making a laminated top.

Investigate Woodsmith mag for designs…and others too.

Good luck !
 
#14 ·
Just a little expansion on the first post.

Here is a photo of the next to last bench:



A photo of my current bench:


You might not be able to tell from the photos but the basic construction is the same, as it has been on the last few bench builds. A heavy base with a split top. The top is about 100mm thick, around 610mm across including the split, and close to 2500mm long.

Some of the evolutionary changes on the latest bench are: An asymmetrical slab. Working side 420mm, off side 190mm. Lost the deadman and replaced with an English style apron. Lost the wagon vise and replaced with nothing, stops, doe's foot, and battens with holdfasts do the same job better and quicker. Lost the leg vise, what a PITA, a metal English QR such as a Paramo or Record works better and may be cheaper. Bottom shelf is flush with the stretchers instead of recessed, easier to keep clean. As I expected this bench to be the end of the evolutionary line it is made of European Beech vs. SYP. Beech is much nicer to work than Maple and when I built cheaper plus damn it's nice to work on and pretty to boot.

ken
 
#15 ·
The first and only bench I built was in Idaho. It had ceder 4×4's for the legs (somebody built a trash can holder out of ceder 4×4's!! I took it apart and they made really nice legs.) and 3/4 in. plywood for the top. When that got too annoying, I took a bunch of random 2×4's and put them on the plywood as a sacrificial top. The top was 4 in. thick but I didn't have hand planes so I couldn't make it smooth. In any case we moved about 6,500 miles from there so I left that one there for the next guy.

Anyway, I was thinking that I could build this one onto a wall. What would be the problems associated with that?

How high is the bench supposed to be for planing? The place on the wall that I was eyeing looks like it is high enough for what I need but I think there's probably a science to bench height.

I just want a bench that will not move and I can clamp things in or on.
 
#16 ·
The big problem for me is that lumber here is EXPENSIVE!!! It costs $3 a meter and is super soft (it grows faster and is a variety of pine that doesn't hardly smell.

All I want is a bench that WON'T MOVE…EVER.

There are three options IMO. going from easy to better they are as follows.
1. use one of the benches that are already here and just mount a vise and maybe a top.
2. build a bench on the wall that is mounted to the wall on one side and a leg structure on the other.
3. I like this the best. I could build a bench out of pine the normal way and put a vise on it. This will be the strongest, and best customized to my needs.

What is the best? the only two problems with the wall mount are also it's strengths. It doesn't move so I can't go around it. The other problem is it is on an end wall so I will have limited possible board length.

Thanks
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
One of the replies stated "You only want to do this once…", I disagree. A work bench is very personal and the only way to have a bench that fits you is to find what works for you by working on different benches. Books will not do that job. Over the years through many bench builds I've finally built what I expect is my, emphasis on "my", perfect bench.
You have a very nice bench, but respectfully, with this philosophy, wouldn't one end up with several expensive assembly tables or countertops? I mean, you can only use one bench at a time, no?

I agree with building a bench with one's needs in mind, but after looking at your benches I'm curious as to what "overly fussy" means? My bench seems bare bones compared to your's…...

It appears the first one could have been modified instead of doing a complete new build, no?

To each his own, but I believe the workbench should be approached carefully and with a lot of thought, and I, for one, got huge insight into benches by studying the aforementioned books.

A lot of ww'ers take the approach that their workbench is a central, signature piece of equipment reflective of their craftsmanship and built to last more than a lifetime.

- BubbaIBA
[/QUOTE]
 
#18 ·
The big problem for me is that lumber here is EXPENSIVE!!! It costs $3 a meter and is super soft (it grows faster and is a variety of pine that doesn t hardly smell.

All I want is a bench that WON T MOVE…EVER.

There are three options IMO. going from easy to better they are as follows.
1. use one of the benches that are already here and just mount a vise and maybe a top.
2. build a bench on the wall that is mounted to the wall on one side and a leg structure on the other.
3. I like this the best. I could build a bench out of pine the normal way and put a vise on it. This will be the strongest, and best customized to my needs.

What is the best? the only two problems with the wall mount are also it s strengths. It doesn t move so I can t go around it. The other problem is it is on an end wall so I will have limited possible board length.

Thanks

- Sanderguy777
Wow, you are in the middle of nowhere, aren't you?

Perhaps if you described what kind affordable building materials are available to you we could be of more help.

Are there any sawmills in Tonga? If so, can you obtain rough lumber from a sawmill and mill it yourself?
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
The big problem for me is that lumber here is EXPENSIVE!!! It costs $3 a meter and is super soft (it grows faster and is a variety of pine that doesn t hardly smell.

All I want is a bench that WON T MOVE…EVER.

There are three options IMO. going from easy to better they are as follows.
1. use one of the benches that are already here and just mount a vise and maybe a top.
2. build a bench on the wall that is mounted to the wall on one side and a leg structure on the other.
3. I like this the best. I could build a bench out of pine the normal way and put a vise on it. This will be the strongest, and best customized to my needs.

What is the best? the only two problems with the wall mount are also it s strengths. It doesn t move so I can t go around it. The other problem is it is on an end wall so I will have limited possible board length.

Thanks

- Sanderguy777
Retro fitting a existing bench may or may not be easier depending on what you need to put into it to make it as stable as you like. I looked at the Harbor Freight bench with the thought of beefing it up but by the time I was done I doubt there would have been enough of the original bench left to make it worth it.

I have had a bench pushed up against a wall before and really didn't like it. You can't move around your bench to get at pieces of work from all sides and the wall is constantly in the way when you are doing things like clamping glue ups. You also can't hang pieces off the back of your bench so larger pieces become very difficult to work on. I ended up moving the bench to a spot where it was accessible from all sides even though I gave up a bunch of floor space in my cramped shop to do it.

Softer woods would be fine for a base but I don't know about the top. It depends on what you do but I prefer a harder top. It doesn't have to be something like hard maple but you don't want it too soft either. I currently have a bench made of construction grade Fir and it's a good hardness. It stands up well but doesn't dent my work if I drop it on the bench. My current bench was build from 4 8' 4X6's and 2 8' 2X6's. I cut the legs to length one off each 4X6 than used what was left for the top. The 2X6's became the lower stretchers of the bench. It was fairly quick and cheap to build with the splayed legs being the most difficult part. It does not look pretty but it's very solid and works well for me with a few dog holes and a Woodriver large front vise mounted on it. I consider it a temporary bench until I get the room to build a bigger one but it does work well for what it is. My only suggestion would be to buy the better grade construction lumber from a yard rather than a big box store and try and find dryer pieces that have been in the yard for awhile under cover if possible.

Best of luck.
 
#20 ·
You have a very nice bench, but respectfully, with this philosophy, wouldn t one end up with several expensive assembly tables or countertops? I mean, you can only use one bench at a time, no?


I have three benches in my shop, all were at one time the primary bench. All three are used daily and not as expensive assembly tables. One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench…I can and do use more than one bench at a time.

I agree with building a bench with one s needs in mind, but after looking at your benches I m curious as to what "overly fussy" means? My bench seems bare bones compared to your s…...

Having appliances and/or fixtures that are not used or get in the way. The wagon vise and the deadman are good examples.

It appears the first one could have been modified instead of doing a complete new build, no?

Why, ever done remodeling vs. new construction? I can build a bench in 40 to 60 hours and that's with lots of tea breaks and doggie butt scratching.

To each his own, but I believe the workbench should be approached carefully and with a lot of thought, and I, for one, got huge insight into benches by studying the aforementioned books.

I expect we can agree to disagree….From what I've seen, and I was guilty as well, most first time builders over think the build and end up taking too long to build when they could think less build quickly and get on with making furniture. Of course as with all things wood, YMMV

A lot of ww ers take the approach that their workbench is a central, signature piece of equipment reflective of their craftsmanship and built to last more than a lifetime.

Yep, they sure do. My point is do you want to build benches or do you want to make furniture….much the same with tools, do you want to collect rust or do you want to work wood. Everyones answer is different…see above.

ken

- BubbaIBA

- Robert Engel
 
#21 ·
There is a mill, but I think it's just as much. I know I can get bigger boards there but isn't it better to use a lot of little boards rather than one or two big ones? The other problem is that the boards in this country warp instantly.
 
#22 ·
There is a lumber store and a sawmill. I don't think that they make any plywood here so if I use it, I will have to pay about $45 for a 4×8 x 3/8 sheet. Its smooth but at those prices it should be gold plated!

My "bench," now, is scrap, consisting of 36×10" plywood "boards," 1×6's, and a 1×4. It is about 3/4" thick. It is mounted on hinges to my miter saw bench that is on wheels so I really need to upgrade.

Richard H I like your idea of the splayed legs. I built a step stool with splayed legs and I could park a car on it. What did you use for the top, the 4×6's? I think I'll go with that design but how high is a bench supposed to be?

When I do this I will trash a couple benches to make room for this one. So I'm leaning toward a 5' x 30-36" top and about 30-36" high. I like the idea of vertical clamping on the legs, so flush legs in the front and splayed legs in the back or maybe a splayed and a flush on both sides.

It would be a retro fit, but what do you think of retractable casters later on?
 
#23 ·
I was considering putting workbench casters on mine, but then followed Chris Schwarz's suggestion that it is relatively easy to push the bench around if you're just talking a couple feet at a time. Works just fine for me.

If I were doing casters, I'd do these since they're so easy to add on:
 
#24 ·
One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench
You've made my point, sir.

Sharpening bench = waste of a bench.
Overflow bench = another waste of a bench.

I hope you at least reused the vices!!

Turning a workbench you've spend hours building into just another horizontal surface is your right.
 
#25 ·
One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench

You ve made my point, sir.

Sharpening bench = waste of a bench.
Overflow bench = another waste of a bench.

I hope you at least reused the vices!!

Turning a workbench you ve spend hours building into just another horizontal surface is your right.

- Robert Engel
I don't think he made your point. I think he made his. His work style/workflow may not be yours. He seems to have a larger amount of space to work with then me and if this fits his needs and projects then more power to him. Also, I wish I had space for a dedicated sharpening spot. Currently sharpening is an interrupt in my work flow so it doesn't get done as often as it should. That he recycled an old work bench is interesting but not shocking, it's a flat surface of an appropriate height. Perhaps he works on larger or more complex projects. Having space to leverage different work areas would be cool. Maybe he likes building work benches.
 
#26 ·
Yes, the Roubo is all the rage these days, but personally I don't like the knee vice.

Lost the leg vise, what a PITA, a metal English QR such as a Paramo or Record works better and may be cheaper.

===========

Don't know what a knee vise is. And a leg vise is not a PITA. Putting a face vise on a roubo is a personal preference, not an absolute. I wouldn't do without my leg vise, and spent a princely sum of $22 to get it.
 
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