Used Jointer

inside the junction box on the motor is a wiring diagram to wire it over to 110, and by all means test it out BEFORE you buy it !!! run a couple of oak boards, flatten a full 6 inch board and joint an edge. check out the knives in it for edge and nicks. tables should be clean and generally pit free. a bit of oxidation won’t hurt and you can clean it up, but not pits, they are could mean a porous castings. table should adjust up and down smoothly. the older grizzlies are not what the newer ones are, but are still a mile up from the harbor frieght/central machinery junk units. good luck !

Check the motor some motors can easily be change to 110v all you have to do is o open the cover at the wires and loo in. If you cannot try it I would not buy it. Take your time you will find others.

-- --<<<<<< I will not stop until I get it right. >>>>>>--

Thanks Aurora and GMman,

I was burned on a table saw purchase several years ago. I ended up investing about $250 for the manufacturers service center to replace parts. I have to admit I got too excited and did not approach it as cautiously as I am with this jointer. I was able to locate a manual for the jointer on-line, so wiring it to 110V should not be difficult. But as I recall the G1018 has a magnetic 220v switch and I suspect the jointer will not run 110V using the 220v switch. Does anyone know about this?

Aurora, I appreciate the specific recommendations on what to look for with a used jointer.

Finally, I agree with both of you, I would not buy the jointer, if I can not run the jointer under power.

Dalec

aurora gave you about the best advise you can have

-- --<<<<<< I will not stop until I get it right. >>>>>>--

GMman, It is reassuring to have someone like you and Aurora to fill in in the information void about jointers that a novice like me needs to make an informed purchase decision.

Thanks again.

Dalec

Dale,
I would take a straight edge to check for flatness as well, check to make sure the beds are not out of paraell (sp?) to early in the morning, or twisting. Use like a winding stick.
Also if you have a electrical test meter. Check for amp draw and continuity between the motor and its housing.
Depending on the plug he has on the cord you may not be able to plug into 110 plug. What you can do is take a old extension cord if you have one. Cut the cord so you have a male end, and wire rhe female end into a light switch take a 4×4 electrical box with you. then wire the machine into the other side of the light switch. And for safety sake screw the switch into the 4×4 box, plug the cord into a 110 plug now you can feed power to the machine by just turning on the swich. Then push the start button at the machine. This makes a handy test set up.

-- Ed - Milan, IN

Dale,
The mag switch is no big deal if you are willing to spend about $5 to $10 to try it out, if your sure it is a duel 110/220 volt, just buy yourself about ten feet of good elect. cord and a male plug, disconnect the wires from the motor and wire the cord directly to the motor…it will NOT have a on off switch so be VERY careful, but you will at least be able to plug it into a wall outlet to see if the Jointer works.

-- Don S.E. OK

i forgot about the magnetic switch like Don said just go straight to the motor.
The whole set up wont be more than 5 bucks

-- Ed - Milan, IN

Thanks EdC and Don for the additional thoughts about testing the used jointer.

I am feeling less excited about the jointer than I was yesterday. I guess there is nothing like time and a healthy sprinkling of doubt to tone things down a bit.

I will contact the seller to see if he is open to my testing the jointer out and to give the jointer a decent once over before I seriously think about making offer or passing on it.

I very much appreciate the advise from all you for your thoughts on my topic.

Dalec

It may seem obvious, but take a square to make sure you can set the fence square.

Dale,
For that matter, if you have a good extension cord…you do not even have to buy one, just cut off the female end and use it….while it may not be strong enough gage wise to run on for any long length of time…it will be more than enough to just check it out and joint a piece or two. Then when you are done….just spend two dollars and put another female plug back on it.

I also understand what you mean about feeling “Less excited” about it. I have done this many times…found a tool that I thought I could not live with out and wanted to buy then and there…but after sleeping on it…they sometimes lose their luster. (I have also bought them on the spot and later really regretted it)

Bottom line is if it’s a good deal and you have the money…then go for it…if your having doubt’s…then there may be a reason. Not trying to stick my nose where it does not belong….but do you mind telling us what the asking price is ?? I am sure someone here will know immediately if it is a good deal or not.

-- Don S.E. OK

I would take a straight edge to check for flatness as well, check to make sure the beds are not out of paraell (sp?) to early in the morning, or twisting. Use like a winding stick.
Also if you have a electrical test meter. Check for amp draw and continuity between the motor and its housing.
Depending on the plug he has on the cord you may not be able to plug into 110 plug. What you can do is take a old extension cord if you have one. Cut the cord so you have a male end, and wire rhe female end into a light switch take a 4×4 electrical box with you. then wire the machine into the other side of the light switch. And for safety sake screw the switch into the 4×4 box, plug the cord into a 110 plug now you can feed power to the machine by just turning on the swich. Then push the start button at the machine. This makes a handy test set up.

—Ed – Milan, IN

And what would happen to the motor since this machine is wired for 220 volts and the seller does not have 220 available? dalec may not want to buy this jointer but if he does that, he WILL at least pay for a new motor.

dalec, the best advice you could follow is don’t even think about buying a machine that you can’t see in operation.

-- .

Again thanks to the many of you for your ideas.

In response to your perfectly good question Don, the jointer is a Grizzly G1018 (8”, I believe with a 65” table length, and this one has been upgraded with a spiral cutter, 1-1/2 hp, runs on 110V or 220V) all for $425 asking price. My concern is the seller doesn’t seem to know a lot about it, so that what seems like a good deal may turn out to be a very bad deal.

I was able to load the Grizzly G1018 manual on-line. It is dual voltage and can be wired to run on either 110V or 220V, so it would not be difficult to switch between the two voltages. The assumption is if it run under 110V, it should do as well or better with 220V.

I have sent the seller an e-message asking if he will allow me to temporarily re-wire his jointer for 110V for testing purposes. He hasn’t gotten back to me as yet.

Dalec

I am not familular with Grizzly, so I may be wasting your time here, but I have done some rebuilding of the older Delta and Rockwells. I don’t know about how old of a machine you are talking here but if it needs bearings or anything like that down the road you might want to see if Grizzly handles OEM parts for their older stuff. That is one saving grace with the older Delta-Rockwell’s and so on is that all the bearings you can get through any auto store. Years ago I had an off brand lathe that had a bearing from another planet and I was SOL, just don’t want to see that happen to you, just a thought. I am sure that there are many people that can answer that ? here as well. Keep us posted and I hope it all goes well for you.
Nate

Thanks Nate,

It is something I haven’t thought about. It is worth looking into the availability of replacement parts before buying a used piece of machinery.

I am scheduled to go over to have a look at the machine this morning. I am going over with the plan to check out the machine, then giving myself at least a day to consider it. I will include all the advice from this forum topic and your suggestion about checking with Grizzly about replacement parts before making any offer.
It was not snatched up immediately, so that may be not such a good sign.

Dalec

dalec. as much as you SHOULD be warry and watch out for every possible issues with this machine – I would think that the reason it hasnt been snatched up immediately has more to do with the fact that it’s wired 220 and cannot be tested easily, plus the ecomony state right now…

my point is, don’t let that fact stop you, but still keep an eye on the actual machine and it’s performance and downfalls.

good luck

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

dalec,
While I am not familiar with this particular jointer….I have a Grizzly jointer that I love. Also Grizzly stocks almost every part for every tool they have ever made to answer MNWOODWORKER post.

-- Don S.E. OK

Thanks PurLev and Don.

I called Grizzly this morning just to see the availability of parts and talked first with customer service and then called their tech support line. Even though I don’t own a Grizzly Tool, they were very helpful and took the time to go over things I should look at. I was planning on temporarily rewiring the jointer to run on 110V, but the tech said it is hard to get to the motor in that it is in the cabinet and he would not recommend it.

He said the jointer is pretty much indestructible. Bearings are standard and can be purchased anywhere or through Grizzly. His main concern was what the condition of the dove tail ways (sp) and whether the tables are co-planer. He also said the older G1018’s had 1 v belt while the “newer models” had two v belts. According to Grizzly the last time the G1018 was listed in their catalog was 2005. I was very much impressed with Grizzly’s Customer Service and Tech Support. They were very helpful and unlike most call centers rushing the conversation, but taking the time to talk things through. So I got a dose of Grizzly’s Customer Service Today.

Dalec

Dale,
Grizzly’s customer service is great. I did a review over a Bandsaw I bought from them that touches on their customer service….very helpful people.

-- Don S.E. OK

OK now that you have piked our curiosity let us know how it turns out, hope you can make yourself a deal there.

I just called the seller and left a message that I maybe wasting his time and my time if I can’t get power to the jointer for testing. Haven’t heard back from him. I think he doesn’t have 220V where he has the jointer stored, and as a few LJs have said don’t buy it if I can test run the jointer.

For those who are following this saga, if the seller is able to get power to the jointer, I will let you know what comes of it.

A couple of good things coming from this experience so far are: I learned more about jointers and I got to experience Grizzly Customer Service.

Again, Thanks to everyone for your thoughtful suggestions.

Dalec