Fixing tearout

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by rwe2156 posted 04-02-2015 06:03 PM 884 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View rwe2156's profile


3171 posts in 1685 days

04-02-2015 06:03 PM

Anything work?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

8 replies so far

View SirIrb's profile


1239 posts in 1434 days

#1 posted 04-02-2015 06:20 PM

Maybe be a bit more specific on where you are getting tear out, on what type of wood and what you are doing when it happens.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Yonak's profile


986 posts in 1725 days

#2 posted 04-03-2015 03:46 AM

Put something behind it.

View devann's profile


2246 posts in 2896 days

#3 posted 04-03-2015 04:09 AM

+1 what Yonak said.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

View bigblockyeti's profile


5286 posts in 1925 days

#4 posted 04-03-2015 04:09 AM

Are you trying to prevent future tearout or repair damage that has already occurred? Pictures of your problem would help.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View rwe2156's profile


3171 posts in 1685 days

#5 posted 04-03-2015 11:39 AM

Specifically I’m talking about face grain tearout in quartersawn white oak.
The boards I am working with have a lot of changing grain patterns, making it extremely difficult to work with.
I’ve about given up trying to plane this stuff with a hand plane and went to using a scraper and drum sander.

I have a couple pieces I would like to fix if possible, simply to avoid re-milling wood.

I can’t mill them down further.

I’ve thought about cyanoacrylate with sawdust, but I’m not sure how that will look.

I’m planning on fuming with ammonia.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5177 posts in 2697 days

#6 posted 04-03-2015 01:19 PM

You won’t be successful trying to fill it so it won’t be seen (at least I’ve never been with a variety of approaches). Depending on the piece, you could put in a dutchman…..or just keep going until it’s removed. You might also be able to veneer it with another piece of QSWO and then plane that to the needed thickness; but you didn’t want to mill any more.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View jmartel's profile


8239 posts in 2354 days

#7 posted 04-03-2015 01:25 PM

How do you have your plane set up? You should be taking extremely thin passes if you are getting tearout. Something like 0.001”. Additionally, your chipbreaker should be set about 1-2 pieces of paper away from the front of the cutting edge. Very close. You can also skew the plane to 30 degrees or even 45 degrees off of straight on when you are planing.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2687 posts in 3126 days

#8 posted 04-03-2015 01:28 PM

Tare-out while cross cutting? I now use my miter saw with a fine cross cut blade to cut quarter sawn oak. Put a backer board agenst the fence and get no tare-out.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics