Fixing tearout

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Forum topic by rwe2156 posted 04-02-2015 06:03 PM 820 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2834 posts in 1411 days

04-02-2015 06:03 PM

Anything work?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

8 replies so far

View SirIrb's profile


1239 posts in 1161 days

#1 posted 04-02-2015 06:20 PM

Maybe be a bit more specific on where you are getting tear out, on what type of wood and what you are doing when it happens.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Yonak's profile


986 posts in 1451 days

#2 posted 04-03-2015 03:46 AM

Put something behind it.

View devann's profile


2246 posts in 2623 days

#3 posted 04-03-2015 04:09 AM

+1 what Yonak said.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

View bigblockyeti's profile


5051 posts in 1651 days

#4 posted 04-03-2015 04:09 AM

Are you trying to prevent future tearout or repair damage that has already occurred? Pictures of your problem would help.

View rwe2156's profile


2834 posts in 1411 days

#5 posted 04-03-2015 11:39 AM

Specifically I’m talking about face grain tearout in quartersawn white oak.
The boards I am working with have a lot of changing grain patterns, making it extremely difficult to work with.
I’ve about given up trying to plane this stuff with a hand plane and went to using a scraper and drum sander.

I have a couple pieces I would like to fix if possible, simply to avoid re-milling wood.

I can’t mill them down further.

I’ve thought about cyanoacrylate with sawdust, but I’m not sure how that will look.

I’m planning on fuming with ammonia.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4905 posts in 2423 days

#6 posted 04-03-2015 01:19 PM

You won’t be successful trying to fill it so it won’t be seen (at least I’ve never been with a variety of approaches). Depending on the piece, you could put in a dutchman…..or just keep going until it’s removed. You might also be able to veneer it with another piece of QSWO and then plane that to the needed thickness; but you didn’t want to mill any more.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View jmartel's profile


7734 posts in 2080 days

#7 posted 04-03-2015 01:25 PM

How do you have your plane set up? You should be taking extremely thin passes if you are getting tearout. Something like 0.001”. Additionally, your chipbreaker should be set about 1-2 pieces of paper away from the front of the cutting edge. Very close. You can also skew the plane to 30 degrees or even 45 degrees off of straight on when you are planing.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2637 posts in 2852 days

#8 posted 04-03-2015 01:28 PM

Tare-out while cross cutting? I now use my miter saw with a fine cross cut blade to cut quarter sawn oak. Put a backer board agenst the fence and get no tare-out.

-- No PHD, but I have a GED and my DD 214

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