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Question about wood movement

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Forum topic by cmonSTART posted 07-06-2009 01:43 AM 827 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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cmonSTART

12 posts in 2904 days


07-06-2009 01:43 AM

I’m very new to resawing stock. The stock I’m using is flat sawn red oak which does move a bit when working it. I’ve found I need to be very careful and sneak up on my cuts with this stuff to keep things straight.

Now I can thickness this stuff down and I may have to joint it once halfway through just to straighten things up again as the wood moves. It does move, but not too much. Now I just tried to resaw a piece of the same stock on my bandsaw and the stuff warped so much it nearly bound up my bandsaw, twisted until it wasn’t even usable anymroe without significant jointing (too much to have any stock left to work with), and just moved a ton.

Here is my question for the wiser woodworkers here: Is there a difference in the amount or degree to which wood will move depending on whether you saw it to half its width, or thickness plane it? What I found doing this seems to support a big difference, but it doesn’t make sense in my head. You’re still removing half it’s width and supposedly restressing the stock in the same way.

Does this make sense to anyone?


3 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16244 posts in 3685 days


#1 posted 07-06-2009 02:28 AM

I understand the question, but I’m not sure about the answer.

Common sense tells me, like you, that planing or sawing should not make a difference. But maybe someone out there knows otherwise.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#2 posted 07-06-2009 02:44 AM

There are a few things that may have caused the sever twisting first the wood was not dry enough to use in the first place any thing about 12% is very prone to have cupping and twisting problems. Next internal stress that much wood will have. also when you resaw wood it has much more moisture on the inside than out so it wants to dry quickly and the dry side of the wood whats to stay put so you get twisting and cupping. One way to stop this is to moisten the out side with a sprayer and then place your wood on stickers so it can equally dry on both sides. The other thing that helps is to let the wood normalize in your shop as long as possible.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Kindlingmaker

2656 posts in 2993 days


#3 posted 07-06-2009 06:08 AM

...also a drum sander to thickness a piece works pretty good if you alternate sides often as you sand to your disired thickness. The wood relieves stress and starts to cup or twist and the next passes through the sander knocks off the high points, leave it it just a little proud and finish the sanding the next day. ...just a thought

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

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