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Question about bandsaw blade and fence

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Forum topic by Joel_B posted 04-01-2015 05:34 PM 671 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joel_B

294 posts in 845 days


04-01-2015 05:34 PM

I recently bought a used Jet 14” bandsaw.
I will be using it primarily for furniture and guitar making.
Mostly cutting curves but some straight cuts such as a 14 degree scarf joint for guitar neck.
No plans to do any resawing but that might be in the future.
The blade that came with it is 1/4 wide, 14 tpi and seems pretty dull. I think the guy i bought it from said he got it from Harbor Freight. Is there one blade that will do both the straight and curve cuts I need to do, or should i buy two blades? I keep hearing that Timberwolf blades are really good.

Also the bandsaw did not come with a fence, it has two threaded holes spaced 11-1/8 inch apart on each side of the table. Any recommendations? Could I make one? I need to do angled cuts like the scarf joint I mentioned so It would nice if the fence had that capability.

Finally the guide blocks are in bad shape. They are not flat / square on the ends and some are very short.
Should I buy new cool blocks?

Thanks

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA


9 replies so far

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MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#1 posted 04-01-2015 06:02 PM

How tight of curves will you need? The size of the blade will limit the radius you can cut, so figure out the tightest radius you will need and size the blade for that… you can make straight cuts with a thin blade, but you will have a hard time cutting tight curves with a wide one :)

As for your guide blocks, you can reface them on a grinder… if they are HSS metal ones, I’d try to keep them as they are much better than cool blocks.

You will get a ton of recommendations on fences, from 2×4’s c-clamped on the table to uber-expensive ones that you will need to take a loan out on your house for :) I just re-purposed one from an old dead table saw I had and it works fine. It doesn’t angle, but I’ve rarely needed that capability. When I did, I just added a sacrificial face on it and shimmed to the correct angle. YMMV.

Oh.. in case you haven’t already watched it… here is the obligatory video for setting up a bandsaw:
Alex Snodgrass Band Saw Clinic

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Joel_B

294 posts in 845 days


#2 posted 04-01-2015 06:16 PM

The guitar body as you can imagine is a pretty big radius. The neck heel has various radius, some are carved with a knife and/or chisel, but one of them could be done on the bandsaw. This picture should give you an idea:

The blocks I think are graphite. As I said some of them are probably too short to put on a grinder.

For the fence I was thinking something like this, the price isn’t too bad:

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMS7200-Bandsaw-Fence/dp/B0007VYL48/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427912097&sr=8-2&keywords=grizzly+bandsaw+fence

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

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rwe2156

2196 posts in 945 days


#3 posted 04-01-2015 11:46 PM

You can buy decent blades fairly cheap for this saw, so get a couple with different TPI.

I think that’s a decent investment for a fence.

Or you could just clamp a piece of wood if all you need is a guide.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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firefighterontheside

13485 posts in 1321 days


#4 posted 04-02-2015 12:18 AM

14 tpi sounds like a metal cutting blade to me. I buy mine from www.buyfromawoodworker.com and I use a 1/4” with 4 tpi. I have cut thru about 6” of wood. I wouldn’t go resawing white oak with it though.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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Julius Jahn

12 posts in 615 days


#5 posted 04-02-2015 12:19 AM

As a fellow guitar builder, I saw scrap the fence idea. It’s best to freehand + plane your scarfs, or cut it on the table saw, or the bandsaws mitre slot.

I use a 1/4” 6 tpi for small stuff, and a 1/2” 3tpi for resaw/rough-general cutting.

-- Luthier from NS, Canada

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Joel_B

294 posts in 845 days


#6 posted 04-02-2015 12:23 AM



As a fellow guitar builder, I saw scrap the fence idea. It s best to freehand + plane your scarfs, or cut it on the table saw, or the bandsaws mitre slot.

I use a 1/4” 6 tpi for small stuff, and a 1/2” 3tpi for resaw/rough-general cutting.

- Julius Jahn

For some reason the mitre slot never occurred to me. I will see if I can convince myself it will work.
I was planning on planing them afterwards.

Thanks

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#7 posted 04-02-2015 12:24 AM

Woodslicer blades are nice too. Pick the widest blade you can that will still cut the tightest radius you’ll need to cut. The wider, the more durable and you can achieve greater tension allowing you to cut faster through thick lumber with less chance of breakage. You can try and make a fence and see how it works for you and then decide if you want to invest in a nicer/more robust system for what little ripping you plan on doing.

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Joel_B

294 posts in 845 days


#8 posted 04-02-2015 02:35 AM

I think this would work in the miter slot. Could use it on my TS also so maybe worth the investment instead of a fence:

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITER1000-18T-Miter-Miter-gauge/dp/B000051WSE

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#9 posted 04-02-2015 03:25 AM

On my old delta 14” I used maple to fashion the blocks. I replaced them with cool blocks and didn’t notice much of a difference. I think a general purpose carbon or bimetal blade sized for your contour cuts would do a decent enough job also making straight cuts. I like Lenox blades. A woodslicer won’t cut curves. Not enough set in the teeth. Fence? Kreg makes a decent fence as does Carter but they are pricey. Or you can make one and clamp it on the cheap.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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