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Right finish for a live edge maple dining table

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Forum topic by Banban posted 04-01-2015 02:20 AM 807 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Banban

1 post in 616 days


04-01-2015 02:20 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip maple finishing

Hello everyone.

I have been working on a maple slab, using epoxy for knots and cracks. Now it’s ready for a nice finish.

I tried Watco natural Danish oil. It’s fairly easy to use, but I don’t like the light sheen it leaves on the surface and the fact that it darkens a little the surface.
I am trying to find a finish that would leave the surface as if the wood had been recently sanded. Any idea ?

As a matter of fact, when the second layer of Danish oil was cured and I slightly sanded it using a 220 paper I exactly got the look I want.
Does the oil penetrate deeply enough the wood to allow some light sanding and have still some protection ?

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Binos


2 replies so far

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

986 posts in 2107 days


#1 posted 04-04-2015 03:41 PM

Watco is a blend penetrating oil and varnish. Initial it has some penetrating ability. Once the coating dries/cures reapplication does not penetrate. You can sand it lightly but to what extent is determined by the penetration of the wood on the initial wet coat/coats.

I would try thinned dull/flat nitrocellulose Lacquer on some samples to see if that works for you but it should be sprayed. If you do not have spray equipment try rattle cans available from big box stores.

The other coating you could try is real Tung oil.

Maybe others on LJ could suggest alternatives for you to try.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1058 posts in 1454 days


#2 posted 04-04-2015 06:23 PM

For a dining room table polyurethane is needed. Since you want a “dry” look the best choice is a WB poly. I recommend target coatings EM 9000. General finishes also has a WB poly Best to spray WB finishes, but they can be brushed using the extender/retarder. A light sanding and wipe down with 50-50 water and denatured alcohol will prep the surface for the WB Poly. Since you have already applied two coats watco you could apply solvent poly over it and not get any more color shift. You probably want to use a satin sheen product whatever you use. The watco is really a thinned long oil poly varnish. A dining room table needs a film finish built up to Protect the surface. It will take many coats of the watco to get a film build. 2 to 3 coats of poly will get you there

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