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Forum topic by trob445 posted 07-03-2009 07:06 AM 1008 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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trob445

13 posts in 3036 days


07-03-2009 07:06 AM

Went out today and completed my shopping list for hand cut joinery! Figured since I was sharpening my chisels that I would sharpen my plane irons… Well… I just cant get them sharp enough!!! They are all used/new to me planes and the plane irons don’t appear to be as thick as say a Hock iron. Would it be best to just scrap them and get new ones or keep trying to sharpen?

Wet/dry sand paper 220 to 600 grit with a honing guide. Backs polished.. yada yada… Any ideas?

Will post first cut dovetail cut this weekend…. Loving it!!

Thanks in advance


5 replies so far

View woodworm's profile

woodworm

14164 posts in 3057 days


#1 posted 07-03-2009 05:49 PM

Try to make micro bevel (secondry bevel) if you haven’t.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

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Cantputjamontoast

416 posts in 2899 days


#2 posted 07-03-2009 07:05 PM

This advice is from a man “who can’t put jam on toast”
But listen up.

Get the Vertas MK2 honing guide. Best $60 you could spend.
Find the nearest woodcraft store they have 2000 grit paper for .50 per sheet.

Start with the 220 and flatten the backs. NOT YADDA YADDA. Flatten the backs it is very important!!!!!

Look up the scary sharp method and use the honing guide. You will be amazed at the sharpness and proud of your self sufficiency. Go all the way through the grit sizes to 2000. You will be amazed.

Or I bought Karson”s Tromek and I will sharpen them for 5 bucks each and you will be dependent on somebody else.

Stick with it. Nothing is as nice as a tool you sharpened yourself and the ability to bring it back once you begin to feel your self having to work it harder. I’m making strop this weekend come hell or high water.

-- "Not skilled enough to wipe jam on toast!"

View lwllms's profile

lwllms

555 posts in 2748 days


#3 posted 07-03-2009 07:43 PM

My experience is that nearly all sharpening problems come from the flat face of the tool. Dubbing (inevitable with sand paper sharpening) from sand paper, out of flat stones or even intentional dubbing from the “ruler trick” is usually the cause. Make sure you’ve worked all the way to the edge on the flat face with each grit you use and make sure you raise a wire edge at each step. Throw away your honing guide if you’re using one and concentrate on the flat face, not the bevel.

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trob445

13 posts in 3036 days


#4 posted 07-04-2009 01:13 AM

Thanks guys… I’ll double check my backs and get the 2000 grit paper..

enjoy your 4th!

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3115 days


#5 posted 07-04-2009 01:24 AM

make sure your sand paper is on a deadflat surface. you should go higher than 600 … I use 1000, and 2000 as final. make sure that both back and bevel are sharpened properly= even across the width of the blade, and all the way to the tip/edge.

with 2000 grit you should get mirror polish on the blades – no visible scratch marks on both back and bevel.

microbevel will not give you a sharper blade… it will however help you spend less time sharpening NEXT time around…

if you can’t get these blades sharp – you won’t be able to get a hock blade sharp… don’t go spending anymore money before you learn to properly sharpen your blades.

good luck, and hope you’ll ‘get it’ soon – it does take some practice – just don’t give up – it’s worth it.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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