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Forum topic by SkyKing posted 03-31-2015 04:38 AM 850 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SkyKing

6 posts in 643 days


03-31-2015 04:38 AM

Ok, I’m the guy who joined recently because I bought the house with the mysterious wood shop fixture in the basement.

Well, I have decided to get some power tools for wood fabrication. I have a garage full of tools for mechanics work (metal stuff) but had only a Makita circular saw for wood stuff…

I bought this compound slide miter saw Hitachi model C12RSH…it has a 12” diameter blade and looks like it will cut pretty wide boards, even at an angle, and also 4×4s for legs on benches, etc. The cool thing is that the design brings the slide tubes up over the bench so I don’t have a lot of back space to use up behind the workbench at the wall.

Think I’ll set up my basement workshop for wood crafting, since I’ve never gotten into that. Next I will buy a dust collection system for the saw and a drill press (if they have that option) and for a small vertical belt sander that I inherited from my mom.

I asked a guy at work if the outlets for dust collection were standard sizes and he said that, no, they could be all different diameters. At least my benches are all in a row, so I think I can mount the dust sucking machine on one wall and have branches out in a linear fashion.

So, my question now is…what is the difference in the wood bits, between “wood boring” with the wide flat wings and the curved kind like a “Forstner” (spelling) or whatever. I mean I can look up the technical definition but in practical terms?

-- -Kevin in Catonsville, MD


7 replies so far

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

754 posts in 1455 days


#1 posted 03-31-2015 05:28 AM

The wide flat bits are spade bits, and IMO they are only good for boring holes in studs to run electrical wire. And they aren’t even very good at that. For wood working, I have much better luck with Forstner bits, which are the large rounded bits with radial cutting flutes, or even hole saws for the larger holes.

Dust collection fittings are a pain. No two sizes are the same. Even two 2.5” couplers from different companies can be different. I know this because I have a bunch of fittings that don’t match despite the nominal size being the same. Get close, and use duct tape for its originally intended purpose.

-Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Picklehead's profile

Picklehead

1013 posts in 1389 days


#2 posted 03-31-2015 06:02 AM

Forstner bits allow you to drill clean holes with flat bottoms (if you don’t drill all the way through). They are much more precise and nicer to use than spade bits, which always act like they’ve had one beer too many.

-- You've got to be smarter than the tree.

View nerdbot's profile

nerdbot

97 posts in 821 days


#3 posted 03-31-2015 06:29 AM

SkyKing,

I have that same miter saw for a couple years now and I love it. The dust port on there is definitely not a standard size. What I ended up doing (sadly it took me awhile to have this epiphany) was attaching a rubber coupling and a standard hose fitting to the dust port:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/153234/2-12-Inch-Dust-Control-Flex-Cuff-With-Hose-Clamps.aspx
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/158727/2-12-90-Degree-Elbow-Dust-Collection-Fitting.aspx

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2187 posts in 940 days


#4 posted 03-31-2015 11:06 AM

SK,

If you’re serious about getting in ww’ing, your next purchase should be a table saw, not a drill press.
The TS is the heart of a ww’ing shop, as any ww’er will confirm.

You’ll find out just like in metal machine, you can spend about as much as you want on a tool, so do some due diligence and check out the reviews.

I would recommend taking look at the hybrid saws.

Dust collection is probably in your future, but with just a couple machines, I wouldn’t put the coin out for that just yet.

That being said, you should educate yourself about the dangers of sawdust inhalation, and be especially cautious when working with man made materials like MDF.

A good quality full face respirator is an absolute necessity to protect your lungs, especially in a basement or shop with limited ventilation. You should also take a look at air filtration units and see if that would benefit you. Without knowing how big the shop is, I couldn’t make a recommendation on that.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View SkyKing's profile

SkyKing

6 posts in 643 days


#5 posted 03-31-2015 12:07 PM

Thanks for the replies!

I wanted a dust collector since the basement is finished, and I have a home theater down there (although it’s a couple rooms away) and didn’t want dust in the electronics. The basement is finished throughout.

I’ve heard of the synthetic materials being rather hard of cutting edges, and kind of assumed they has all sorts of toxic materials in them, but wood??? OK

Funny, mention of spade bits being for running wires; many years back I actually bought one for drilling in a house to run Ethernet cable (with a hand drill).

-- -Kevin in Catonsville, MD

View Gentile's profile

Gentile

256 posts in 1278 days


#6 posted 03-31-2015 01:15 PM

I get dust in my house even though I have two doors between the garage and the living areas of my home. I use a dust collector and a ceiling mounted exhaust fan. Dust finds it’s way to where you don’t want it. A buddy of mine drywalled his basement. He took precautions such as plastic barriers, vacuuming regularly, even mopping. Still, drywall dust got into his grandfather clock and gummed it up.
I would worry about electronics close by to a wood working area.

-- "I cut it twice and it's still too short"

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2187 posts in 940 days


#7 posted 03-31-2015 06:02 PM

If you seal up your ww’ing are and go with a DC you’ll have a problem replacing air, iow, you’ll be working in a vaccum.

A solution might be a good quality shop vac with a good hepa filter.

The sanders are the big culprits with dust. If you use a shop vac you’ll be clearing the filter regularly.

If the shop is not large, an air filtration unit will help.

MDF is not hard on a blade, but it is full of formaldehyde and other not-so-nice chemicals related to the manufacturing process. There’s loads of information on it, including guys with COPD because of it.

Don’t poo poo spade bits. Use the ones with spurs and get is spinning at full speed before entering the wood you’ll be surprised howclean the entry hole is. Biggest problem is the protrustion of the tip.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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