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On sharpening, cleaning, and preventing sap build-up on saw blades.

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Forum topic by Sanderguy777 posted 03-28-2015 06:28 AM 1172 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 663 days


03-28-2015 06:28 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question pine miter saw blade tablesaw sharpening

I have about 30 blades (I inherited them from the previous owner of the house) I think they look pretty cheap, but I’m no blade expert. What I want to know is, Since I have them shouldn’t I try sharpening them just to see if they will work better?

My other question is, If I spray silicon spray on the blade will it help the sap and junk not stick?

Next, I have an old no-name 10” table saw. Yesterday I was ripping a 1.75” thick, soft 2×4 and the blade totally stopped. I looked and the blade was full of sap and resin. BTW, the blade is a steel tooth blade where they have a cluster of five or six teeth an then a gap. I replaced the blade with a new Old Ham carbide blade from Grizzly tools.
What should I use to clean the blade? Can I use mineral turpentine? Or should I just toss the blades once they get gummy?

The Old Ham only cost 10 bucks so I don’t see a real issue with tossing it if it gets too bad

Thanks


16 replies so far

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

986 posts in 2103 days


#1 posted 03-28-2015 04:46 PM

First, do not spray them with silicone as it may create a problem when finishing your projects. Silicone will create what the call fisheyes in the finish.

If you want to clean them, I use spray oven cleaner and scotch brite pads which works well on sap buildup.

If they are not carbide blades I would not waste money on shapening and use the money to by better carbine blades.

All that being said, you could pick the better of the blades and try sharpening one and use paste wax that does not contain any silicones. If the blades are plane steel blades the kerf set could be the problem so have your sharpener check that as well.

Hope all works out for you, Good luck.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 663 days


#2 posted 03-28-2015 07:05 PM

I figured that the silicon would be a problem.

I think that the blade kerf set is the problem with the steel blade. I can’t see it for the sap but I think that there is no set at all. That said, I don’t think it really matters, I will just use the blade to make some cool tools or knives or something. I mean,I do have about 30 random blades, most of which were probably dull and gummed up 20 years ago.

The blades are all different kinds. Most of them have no markings left because of use but I think there might be a couple that are decent quality.

I can’t have them sharpened. For one thing, I live in Tonga, there is only one place here that MIGHT sharpen blades and they will probably charge a fortune. Second, I can just buy a new blade for twice the going US price, so why sharpen a cheapo blade that’s not worth it.

What I was wondering is if I was to sharpen one myself, if I wanted a dedicated ripping blade could I “make my own” by taking a regular blade and grinding the teeth straight across and then maybe grinding the angled point (set?) off the top of the teeth.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 797 days


#3 posted 03-28-2015 07:14 PM

I use Simple Green to clean my blades. Fold them and dunk them in Simple Green. Then i brush them with a toothbrush. Sharpening handsaw blades intimidates me. Ive seen videos of people using a dremel to sharpen them. Matthias Wendel (spelling) has a video on his website.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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pjones46

986 posts in 2103 days


#4 posted 03-28-2015 07:22 PM

Harbor Freight makes a Circular Saw Blade Sharpener for about $50 US but I have never used one. Years ago the old timers sharpened them with files.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 663 days


#5 posted 03-29-2015 12:35 AM

I have seen those but I think I’ll just try it with the file for now. I can’t get any cleaner mentioned above, so could I use gasoline or mineral spirits or paint thinner?

Thanks

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1770 days


#6 posted 03-29-2015 12:54 AM


I have seen those but I think I ll just try it with the file for now. I can t get any cleaner mentioned above, so could I use gasoline or mineral spirits or paint thinner?

Thanks

- Sanderguy777

Can you get 409 or Simple Green, most house hold cleaners like that will work. I wouldn’t us gasoline.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 797 days


#7 posted 03-29-2015 01:15 AM

Hmm. Gasoline I would say no. Maybe diesel / kerosene? Can you get that?

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View joey502's profile

joey502

487 posts in 979 days


#8 posted 03-29-2015 01:31 AM

I have used both 409 and simple green, both work well.

Be sure not to use a brush with steel bristles.

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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 663 days


#9 posted 03-29-2015 01:38 AM

I think I can get kerosene but I’m not sure. what about the mineral spirits and paint thinner? Or are they corrosive?

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1770 days


#10 posted 03-29-2015 05:54 AM

I looked at your location. WOW! you’re really out there in the middle of no where. Know I better understand your questions.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 663 days


#11 posted 03-29-2015 09:58 AM

No kidding on the middle of nowhere! But I have always understood the “Alaskans for global warming”!!!! I like it here but it does pose some interesting problems.

I already have some mineral spirits and paint thinner, so tomorrow I will try them out on a couple cheap, gummed up blades.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2190 posts in 941 days


#12 posted 03-29-2015 10:16 AM

If there is a sharpening service available I would try them or you could sharpen them yourself with a fine file.
Maybe make a jig to match the rake and angle of the teeth.

If you stopped the saw it was probably a combination of low power and dull teeth more than sap build up.

Be careful with that old saw!!

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 663 days


#13 posted 03-29-2015 10:44 PM

I put a new blade on and that REALLY helps. It cuts like butter now. The motor is 1.5 HP Chinese 220 piece of junk. I have no problem with stuff that is Chinese as long as it works well….. this does not work well at all. It is probably a combination of the board thickness and the dull blade.
I also think that the previous owners cut some really don’t-cut-it-with-a-table-saw stuff. ( I found some tarp materiel on the drive shaft!!!!) How and who tried to cut a tarp with a table saw i have no idea. I was really surprised that there was no kick back. I don’t have the guard on it.

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 947 days


#14 posted 03-29-2015 10:51 PM

I got a bunch of different kinds of blades from my grandfather and I cull the herd by using them on questionable wood. The ones that are ok get to stay so they can cut through nails, screws, staples, or nothing if that’s what’s in the wood. If I do hit something, it’s in the trash and on to the next.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View soob's profile

soob

223 posts in 669 days


#15 posted 03-30-2015 06:56 PM


I looked at your location. WOW! you re really out there in the middle of no where. Know I better understand your questions.

Did not disappoint.

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