oufeed table ideas?

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Forum topic by AAANDRRREW posted 03-25-2015 01:30 PM 1052 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View AAANDRRREW's profile


210 posts in 1168 days

03-25-2015 01:30 PM


I have the delta 36-725 and I’m toying with an outfeed table. I have very limited space, so it would need to be collapsible or be able to be disassembled and hung on the wall etc.

I cannot connect it to the saw because my fence clamps on the rear rail, so unless I get super creative, I don’t think that will work. I was also thinking it would be nice to make an outfeed table that could also double as the fianc├ęs finishing table when not being used with the saw.

I started simple with just thinking maybe use 2 saw horses and build a table top frame w/ some melamine or something on top to make sure it’s slippery to slide the wood. Then I wondered if the saw horses would be too wobbly. Then I figured I’d come up with a foldable table, but I am having issues conceptualizing how the legs would be hinged… I’ve look around online but haven’t seen much to my liking. Anyone have any ideas? Think saw horses would be ok?

10 replies so far

View OSU55's profile


1666 posts in 1985 days

#1 posted 03-25-2015 02:24 PM

I use 24”x48” plastic topped folding tables. Cut down dowels to fit into the legs to raise to the proper height for the table saw and planer. Use the same for infeed when needed. Just fold up and put out of the way. Here’s what I use but anything similar will work. I’ve stacked at least 200 lbs of wood on a table before w/o a problem, and they work well for applying finish as well as other things. They are no good for assembly – the tops are somewhat concave.

View AAANDRRREW's profile


210 posts in 1168 days

#2 posted 03-25-2015 02:58 PM

OSU – thank you! I actually have a this table in my laundry room – never thought of doing that. So by using the dowels, I’m assuming your legs are telescoping already? or did you remove the plastic caps on the existing legs and shove the dowels in there?

View rwe2156's profile


2924 posts in 1476 days

#3 posted 03-25-2015 03:59 PM

There are a couple videos out there on this subject.

Personally, I think its best to have something permanently anchored to your machine that moves with your machine, is stable and requires no fiddling.

The best one I saw was a drop table hinged off of a narrow table addition with miter slots routed in.

Whatever you decide, I recommend either a formica top or use a sheet of Panolam.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View hotbyte's profile


991 posts in 2971 days

#4 posted 03-25-2015 04:12 PM

Search for the videos. There are some that have attached a bracket/angle iron that comes under the fence rail so it doesn’t interfere with the fence clamping. I did that and added about “an 10 extension to rear of saw which handles small/medium length rips and use a free standing table for longer lengths.

View Woodknack's profile


11608 posts in 2375 days

#5 posted 03-25-2015 04:26 PM

View OSU55's profile


1666 posts in 1985 days

#6 posted 03-25-2015 05:29 PM

Removed the plastic caps, used dowels slightly larger than the leg OD, turned a couple of inches of one end to just fit into the legs (on a lathe), that way the load is carried by the shoulder created on the dowel. I put a screw into each dowel through the steel leg just so it doesn’t fall out. Just figure out how much the table top needs to be raised and cut accordingly. I think I have ~5” extending from the steel legs. While I could have purchased extensions for my TS, I wanted something that could be put up and taken down quickly, no screws/bolts, to keep the TS footprint as small as possible for the 98% of the time in the shop infeed/outfeed on the TS isn’t needed.

View AlaskaGuy's profile (online now)


4127 posts in 2304 days

#7 posted 03-25-2015 07:29 PM

- Rick M.

Hummmm….... no guard, no splitter, and standing directly behind the board being cut. Just an observation.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View TimberMagic's profile


114 posts in 1174 days

#8 posted 03-25-2015 07:45 PM

Do you have the space for a “permanent” outfeed table, if it can double as a regular workbench? I built my own version of the MFT style of workbench from Festool, since I have a track saw in addition to my table saw. (Note: I built this pretty large, so I could put a full sheet of plywood on it for breaking down with the track saw. An outfeed table could be a lot shorter than mine.) When not using my track saw, I cover a portion of the workbench with a sheet of thin hardboard to cover up the holes to provide a smooth work surface. I’ve found I do most of my work at this workbench, since it is right in the middle of my shop. I also mount small, job-specific tools like an arbor press, or a small hobby bandsaw, using bench dogs to hold the tool. When done, they get moved elsewhere.

This might give you an alternative to a fold down outfeed table, provided you do have the room. No matter which way you go, getting rid of roller stands for table saw outfeed is a giant move forward! Note: Mine is built to the same height of my table saw, but is not attached. I can roll the table saw away from the bench, to roll up my planer (planer cart in progress).

-- Lee

View hotbyte's profile


991 posts in 2971 days

#9 posted 03-25-2015 07:46 PM

Didn’t watch whole video but around 7:00 min mark I saw riving knife and standing to right side of board until about 80% cut complete. Also saw ear protection and, the most important safety rule there is, safety glasses. :)

View Jim Savage's profile

Jim Savage

26 posts in 3191 days

#10 posted 03-25-2015 08:14 PM

Here is an outfeed table I built from some Wood Magazine plans. It has casters that make it mobile. You adjust the measurements for your saw (the plans explain how to do this) so that the table will fit over your saw for storage. (This all makes sense when you look at the plans). Given that it’s mobile and does not take up much storage space, it might be of interest to you.

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