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Question about wood stability in a carcass I'm making

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Forum topic by himself posted 03-23-2015 11:06 PM 595 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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himself

5 posts in 650 days


03-23-2015 11:06 PM

So I am making a jewelry armoire and I am going to be dovetailing the carcass together the top is going to be a flip up lid hinged to the carcass. The top piece underneath the lid looks like

The two ends that will be the pins of the dovetail are 1 5/8 inch. My question is will the sides of this crack over time after I glue the carcass together since it’s the grain is fairly short on two of the sides. Here is a sketch of the overall design.

As you can see I modified it a bit so that when the top opens the carcass has a top dovetailed onto it with a small section cut out a little smaller than the dimensions of the top

-- Patrick Hannon, Brooklyn


7 replies so far

View oltexasboy1's profile

oltexasboy1

240 posts in 1165 days


#1 posted 03-23-2015 11:15 PM

Are the sides going to be glued up panels or solid pieces ?

-- "The pursuit of perfection often yields excellence"

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4853 posts in 2274 days


#2 posted 03-23-2015 11:23 PM

It is a little hard to tell from the drawing how the dovetails are arranged. Generally speaking as long as the dovetail joints have the grain running in the same direction, you should be fine. Be sure to allow the wood to move, ie: don’t glue trim across the grain.
Also, if those are sliding dovetails holding the case together… just glue them at the front. This will allow the sides to expand and contract, while keeping the joints flush at the front.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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himself

5 posts in 650 days


#3 posted 03-23-2015 11:30 PM

oltexasboy1- yes the sides have one glue seam thats not centered.

-- Patrick Hannon, Brooklyn

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

303 posts in 1922 days


#4 posted 03-24-2015 12:31 AM

Your top, bottom and sides and drawers dividers will all move together. I’d think through that case attaching to the base, to me that is where you’ll have some issues., but that easy to account for.

I’d do a shop drawing with front, side elevations and plan view. You’d be suprised how many issues you can work through before even beggining a cut list. It’s also a great way to figure through wood movement.

View Tony1212's profile

Tony1212

111 posts in 1195 days


#5 posted 03-24-2015 03:14 PM



...that case attaching to the base, to me that is where you ll have some issues., but that easy to account for.

- BLarge

Glue and screw the front to keep it flush. Oversized screw holes and no glue at the back to allow for wood movement.

The back may not look so nice, but no one looks at the back. Well, except for us woodworkers and we’ll say, “Good, you accounted for movement.”

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

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himself

5 posts in 650 days


#6 posted 03-24-2015 04:22 PM

tony1212- Why would it matter if I just screwed or glued the whole carcass bottom to the base top since the grain orientation will be arranged the same way?

-- Patrick Hannon, Brooklyn

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Tony1212

111 posts in 1195 days


#7 posted 03-25-2015 02:20 PM

Is the carcass from the same board as the base? Even with the same species of wood there can be slightly different expansion rates.

Probably won’t be that big of a deal, but if it were me, I’d rather err on the side of caution.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

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