Recommendations for Table Saw

Bill – Welcome to Lumberjocks.

I have a General (made in canada) contrator saw, left tilt, 2 HP motor. My previous was a used 8” Craftsman bench saw. This is like night and day for me, I have had this saw for about three years now. I do woodworking as a hobby, so cost was an issue for me that kept me out of the cabinet saw line. One thing I did after market was purchased machined pulleys and the Power Twist Link Belt. This virtually eliminated the vibration I had in the saw. I have also changed the belts on my lathe and drill press to the Power Twist Link Belt. I like the left tilt, no binding under blade and between fence. I know some will say move to the other side gives you the same on the right tilt, but sometimes I don’t have the space for the fence.

It would seem to me that a cabinet saw would be easier at collecting the dust. I have recently purchased some Grizzley tools and have been very pleased with these tools and the support I have needed ( new bandsaw blade that broke).

-- Joel Tille

I’ve been using a RIDGID contractor saw with stock fence for about two years now. They had some arbor issues with their older models, but I looked into it and do not have those issues on my model. I think I got mine for the low $500’s; not sure where they price at right now.

It took just a Saturday morning to set it all up, and RIDGID made sure I had every part I needed. The tops were dead flat and the blade was set up properly off the line, as well. All I did was remove the grease and add some paste wax to the top.

I purchased a Power Twist Link belt, but the pulleys are designed to work with a special belt that RIDGID makes, so I’ll have to get the right pulleys to complete that change… But I’m not sure how quickly I’ll get around to that, as I have very little vibration as it is.

I’ve been very pleased with it, though, and it will probably be some time before I change it out with anything else. In fact, the only change I’ll probably make with it is to switch it out from 120 so as to draw fewer amps; I’ll have to wait for a new shop for that, though, as I’m not going to waste the time and money wiring the current shop up with plans to move within the next year.

-- Ethan, http://www.merganserwoodworks.com, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/

By the way… something I AM interested in doing with my RIDGID tablesaw is mounting a router table into the right wing extension. Does anyone have any plans or know of any plans for making that kind of addition to a contractor saw?

-- Ethan, http://www.merganserwoodworks.com, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/

I’m using a Hitachi 3HP 10” table saw that cost me $499.00 at lowes. The next 3 HP table saw I found was $1,100.00

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Yeah, but do you love it? Do you hate it? From your experience, what are the pros and cons of the Hitachi? Bill should base his purchase on more than just price…

-- Ethan, http://www.merganserwoodworks.com, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/

I guess I would ask what you plan to do. I’ve seen some beautiful $10,000.00 sliding table saws worth every penny. Yet many days I us one of those crappy $89.00 and it does the job just fine. In my shop I have a very nice Delta 10 inch cabinet makers saw, with a 60 inch Biesemeyer fence that has held up great for years. My saw has a homemade laminated outfeed tables very similar to those in Marks blog.

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

Based on my work so far, the main uses for a table saw have been ripping boards to width, and cutting plywood panels to length and width. For narrower boards, I use a chop saw for length. However, I do sometimes need the table saw for the wider boards as well.

Because of the size of wood I usually cut, I am very interested in saws with large table surfaces, either as built or add-ons. Also, since my shop is just starting up, I need a reliable piece of equipment at a reasonable price.

It’s nothing different than everyone else I guess.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

Well I guess the one thing that i dont like about the Hitachi is the table. 24” on each side of the blade. And if we all lived in a 24” world, then, it would be perfect. But, alas … And at this time I don’t have enough room to make a table, so I’m stuck at the moment. But if you compare it to anything else in it’s price range, it’s a better saw all around. And it is on wheels so I can just move everything around it and then lock the wheels and I got a little more room, but not a bigger table.
And to make matters more exciting, I’m entering a daily drawing for a Powermatic 4-piece shop.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Mark DeCou wrote a nice review on the Bosch portable saw on this site. Maybe you’ve already read it. I have the Bosch that is one generation older than the one he reviews. It’s essentially the same, but mine has a bare aluminum finish on the top and the latest ones have some sort of coating. Some retailers still offer the old un-coated table.

Overall, it’s a very solid saw. The fence is great, locks straight and solid every time, but I wish it were longer. The table is not huge but does extend to the right for cutting sheet goods up to 24” wide. There is a left-side support extension available as well as an outfeed support. In fact, I was suprised by the number of accessories you can get for it: dado insert, blank insert for making a zero-clearance insert, dust collection bag, etc. The only accessory I have for it is the outfeed extension.

Speaking of dust collection, the built-in port does a pretty nice job connected to my 1.5hp Delta DC.

With a good blade, this is a pretty nice saw. I think it’s perfect for a hobbyist (like myself) if it’s in your budget. I got mine for $400 on sale at a home store here, but it didn’t come with the fancy wheeled cart that they come with now. I can’t comment on how it might stand up to frequent use, but I’ve only heard good things from others in that regard.

Hope this helps.

-Tim

What ever saw you get do all the research you can. Check the saw out in person. Make sure it will fit in your shop. Don’t go by price. I think the thing to look for is a solid accurate fence. I had a vega fence on my jet contractor saw and loved the fence but with the router ext and table ext it took up most of my shop. I have had a bench saw, a contractor saw and now I use a shopsmith 510. I have a very small space and the shopsmith allows me to build a project without having to move everything around. I also have a shopsmith jointer and shopsmith bandsaw and I am very happy with them. If you can buy used thats the way to go if $ is an issue. I sold my contractor saw, 12” jet bandsaw and drill press and bought a used shopsmith and still had money left to put towards my delta planer.

Hey Bill,
After considering all the things mentioned, I’ve given this some thought.
Anyone who doesn’t take price into consideration, I believe, is foolish. I bought my Hitachi because it was the most powerful table saw in it’s price range, it was a known name, and it was available in my area. If you want a good table saw for $500.00 this is it. But I know something that ALL THESE OTHER LUMBERJOCKS DON’T !!! Go north about 15 miles take Nineth St and the little street that connects Nineth and Seventh Sts there is a place called RAYCO. They sell the higher end powermatic (I want one) for about $2,000.00 3 HP and 5 HP saws. They also have a large selection of everything, small power tools, large power tools, lathes, band saws, chop saws, drum sanders, New and Used. In back of the shop they always have a selection of used equipment.
The main questions are, I guess, these:
1) How much do you want to spend?
I also know where to get hardwood at a very reasonable price while you’re in the same city

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Also, you can access the info for each tool from their online websites and most of them are on my website on the left side.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Bill: Grizzly saws are hard to beat. I have a 10” left tilt cabinet saw, I think is 5 hp, and I think I bought it for less than $800, with extra for shipping, and extra for the long extension arms. It came with a ShopFox fence that I love. I have been meaning to do a Tool Review on it, as I have had it 4-5 years now, and it works great. Thanks for giving me a little kick about getting the review written up, others might have the same question.

good to have you here,
Mark

-- Mark DeCou - Kansas Flint Hill's Artisan

I have the Ridgid 3650 and so far I like it very much. Assembly was easy, but took about six hours. When set up you have 36” on the right side of the table. Everything is cast iron and comes with its own easy-lift that works great. So far, I wouldn’t be willing to trade it in for anything I found in that price range.

good luck!

-- Dennis, Tennessee

Gizzard,
How much was it?

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I too have the Ridgid 3650 and been very happy with it’s performance. I have had it for about 4 years now and still would make the purchase again. If you are lucky, you might be able to pick up a floor model for under $400.

Good Luck

-- http://rjoneswoodworks.com/

Home Depot currently lists it at $549, but there are a few ways to knock that down a bit… I get a $25 off of $100 or more purchase coupon every now and again. You can also get a 10% discount if you sign up for the HD credit card. I believe I used both of those options and a gift card or two, making the total out of my pocket under $500.

I agree with Dennis; for the amount of money and time I’ve spent on it, my RIDGID 3650 has performed outstandingly well. At some point in time (many years down the road), I’ll eventually want to get a cabinet saw, I’m sure. But for now, I’m totally satisfied with my RIDGID.

-- Ethan, http://www.merganserwoodworks.com, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/

O.K. Gizzard, time to give us the full review: How big is the motor?

Is the motor size that big of a deal or am I the onlyone that wants more power. My Hitachi has a 3 hp motor, thats probably the reason why I bought it. that and the price

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

RIDGID Tablesaw has a 13 Amp motor that generates 1.5 HP. You can get all of the specifications on at at Homedepot.com – just look up the table saw and go to the specifications tab. It comes wired for 110, but you can rewire it for 220 if you have the extra juice going into your shop and want to draw fewer amps.

-- Ethan, http://www.merganserwoodworks.com, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/

—- one good point about that Ridgid table saw that I have found and was a deciding factor when I bought mine, is that it comes with a lifetime warrenty against failure as does the rest of the Ridgid line of power tools including the batteries for those cordless works of wonder. And no, in the years I have owened it I have had no problems except with the inch markings on the front rail and then Rigid just sent me a new rail, right away and no questions asked. Also when setting the saw up I had questions to ask their service department and found them to be very helpful and full of knowledge. Just remember to keep those recipts.

This one has worked good for me and I use it quite often for ripping 2” planking and hardwood. When I really need to get down and rip, well thats when I go for my older Rockwell floor table saw.
GODSPEED,
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://frank.wordpress.com/

Man I love this website…. where else can you find a bunch of people that get an adrenalin rush at the smell of sawdust? You just might be a lumberjock if …

And I love the edit feature, since I’m so talented I appear to be typing with my toes

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Bill,

I recently acquired a Ryobi BT3100. It looks like this might be a discontinued model, but there are a few still showing up in Home Depots (new in the box) as they move from floor model displays to photo/spec sheet type displays. I was able to buy one for $239.00. With a 10” Freud blade and a 15 amp motor, it is a smooth powerful performer for my needs. My experiances with the saw so far have been excellent. It required almost no adjustment after assembly. It has a sliding mitre table and can mount a router under one of the table wings. Sears has the same model carried under the sears logo, it is the Sears model 21829. It comes with an accessory pack that cost the Ryobi owners 99.00. The Sears model also comes on a colapsible mobile contractors base. It was on recently on sale for $399 and the Craftsman Club discount brought it down to $359.

I am not a stock holder, employee, or sales person for Sears, Ryobi, Home Depot, Ridgid, Rockler, Lowe’s, etc. I just like finding a godd product at an affordable price.

-- Rick, Southern California

I bought the Ryobi BT3000 saw 5 years ago for about $299. The price also agreed with my pocketbook. One of the main reasons I got this saw was the sliding miter table. I’ve found it to be very accurate. There’s room to crosscut over 16” with a 3/4” board. It has a 15 Amp motor with a belt drive @ 4800 RPM the cuts look like they’ve been run on a jointer. The base for the unit was rectangular in shape, so that made it easy to add some drawers. I have been very satisfied with this saw.
This past summer I ended up buying another Saw that I could use at my cabin. I bought it on Ebay. This one was the Ryobi BT 3100. It has most of the same features, but the company cheapened the quality of a lot of things. They put a direct drive motor with the same Amps as the other, but it don’t seem to have the same OOmph. the cranking mechanism doesn’t work as smooth either. The accuracy of the saw is about the same though.
I don’t think Ryobi makes the BT3000 anymore which I think is a big mistake. It may be there looking for more sales with that cheaper price. I may be wrong, but I looked for the BT 3000 on the Internet, and couldn’t find it.

My Saw with drawers in the base.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Obi, sorry it took so long to get the info you wanted about the Ridgid 3650. Here’s a link to a review that sealed the deal for me to buy one. And I’m still loving it. The price was $549. I had saved just about all I needed to buy it but something came along and my savings had to go. So I just went and put it on my HD credit card with interest free payments until 2008. It’ll be paid off long before that… I hope.
http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html

-- Dennis, Tennessee

Thank you all for the advice. There are some great suggestions here along with the reasoning behind each one.

Currently, I am borrowing my dad’s ridgid, so I am experienced with it. It is a very good saw. The couple of items I would like to see changed are the table size and the guard. I seem to cross cut lots of long boards, so a large table is important. Also, guard is sometimes difficult to line up with the saw blade. It can cause pinching of the wood past the blade, making it difficult to push through. If you make it too loose, then the wood can shift causing an off-cut or even worse, a kickback.

Overall, the saw is pretty good and does fit my pocketbook. But, I have not settled on any of them just yet. I will let you know how it goes.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

Bill,

I also have the Ridgid and I love it. I also have a Ryboi and it is outside under a tarp. The wheels don’t lock but instead the whole saw goes up on the wheels with a simple push of the foot (rock solid). The fence is great (I have it set 1/16 off at the far end) but the mitre was not what I wanted and I now have the $60 Incra and it is great.

I’m a cajun so I am not as smart as most of these other guys. It took me a full 12 pack to put it together but was worth it.

The most important thing is buy a good blade. I use a Forrest WW2. It is pricey but worth every penny (about $130). I have had it for about 8 years and have never had it sharpened. After I used the Forrest for a couple of months I bought a spare just in case I had to send the orignal off to be sharpened. Also a blade vibration dampner (Forrest) is great. It cuts so smooth that I don’t have to sand any of my cuts.

I build a lot of panels and with the combination that I have I just rip the boards and glue um up (my jointer sits in the corner collecting dust).

I hope this has been of some help to you.

Make Dust,

Bill

-- Make Dust

Obi, I just looked at your Hitachi saw at the Hitachi website. It says it’s a 1-1/2 HP sawAre you sure you have a 3HP saw. Here’s the link: http://www.hitachipowertools.com/store_item.php?iID=573&arrPath=1,12,63,p573,

BTW a true 3 HP motor will run only on 220 at 18 to 20 amps.

-- JP

I think the way some companies advertise is a joke. Hitachi says Peak HP (3 1/4) 15 Amp. motor. That means my Ryobi has the same power @ 15 Amps. I think when buying any power tool, if you want to compare power, just look at the Amperage which is the true power.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

That’s NOT my table saw. Here’s mine This is the Hitachi link, And this is the Lowe’s Link

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Check this out on Sawdust 101, it tells you how to check for true power.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I was able to upgrade from my 30+ year old Craftsman to a Pioneer Cabinet Saw from Western Tools. Picked it up last weekend and finished assembling/checking it last night. So far, I am extremely happy with it—the fit and finish are very good. That was a deciding factor when shopping – they had it next to a Powermatic in the show room and the primary difference in fit/finish was that the Powermatic table was slightly closer to mirror quality. I haven’t made any significant cuts on it yet, but am still satisfied with my choice. Price was approximately 1/2 of the Powermatic price, and 2/3 of the equivalent Delta.

I am in the process of gathering my paperwork for the annual trip to the CPA. Depending on the taxes, I look forward to buying my saw in April/May of this year.

Thanks again for everyone’s input. I am leaning towards the Ridgid, since I have the most experience with it and the price is in my league. But, there is still time in case I find a better one to pick.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

I have a general myself with the T-fence and it has been a great saw so far. Take a look at the new Steel City Tools saws, they have had very good ratings so far and my local Woodcraft store is really impressed with the quality. The saw listed below is being introduced for $899 plus there is a $100 rebate. I don’t know about your area but, if I order it in person they don’t charge me for shipping.

Model 35601
10” cabinet table saw
with 30” deluxe Fence System

• 1.75 HP TE FC Dual Capacitor Motor
• Precision Ground, T-Slotted Table Top with
12” Wide Cast Iron Wings and Table Board
• Totally Enclosed Cabinet with 4” Dust Port
• Cabinet Mounted Trunion System

-- Mark, Norfolk, VA

I had a Sears 10” Contractor for years and It gave good service – after tuning and mods. I was a Delta 10” cabinet w/ 50” Beisimeyer After set it works BETTER . I have found that any saw with a proper setup will do a good job. more$$ = More resetability – less time on tune ups

-- David, Las Cruces, NM

I was just looking at a Grizzly 12” 5 HP for about $1,900.00 I want one.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I like my 3 phase 5 hp powermatic 66 with an excalibur sliding table. The only thing I find myself disliking is the left tilt. It comes in handy for quite a few reasons, but it’s a handicap when it comes to the sliding table and miter guages. There’s no subsitute for the power of a good, high hp, table saw, though. I wouldn’t go cheap. I’d save up and get a nice one. You won’t regret it when a more demanding job gets thrown at you. Then… the next question becomes, “What’s the best blade?”. Once you blow a chunk of money on a saw you’re going to want a nice blade so that stuff cutts like butter.

-- Thomas Porter, Phoenix, AZ, www.thomasporter.com

Hello All,

New to this forum, and I hope to be able to contribute.

This past Christmas I was surprised, somewhat, with my new little TS gift from my wife. It’s the SawStop with a 5HP and I love every lb of it. Not to mention it could save a pinky in the future. I also have the General 2 HP left tilting that enjoy too. Even the costs are high, the save the finger mentality and the riving knife set up are unbeatable.

-- ICN, Bill, (http://www.beavercreekfitness.com)

Bill, I’ve been following the saw stop story and I’m a little envious. Congatulations I hope their product really takes off. I’m hopeing to see a small bench top model ,around 40lbs, for job site work. Those small saws are dangerous.

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

I agree Dennis, I would like a SawStop as well. The safety features are great. I hope they can get other mfg’s to use the technology.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

Bill.

Picking out the right table saw is like buying fruit or vegetables at a market. You know basically what you will be be getting but until you plunk down the money and take them home and sample them you only can go on what you have been told.

Its nice to be able to try the model out that your interested in but its not always possible.
Not all models are created equal- but now days there is a lot of parity I find. Little subtle differences are more a reflection of preferences I think.

For example, I have both a left hand and right hand tilt. I don’t have a favorite one. I have used both many times and they both get the job done.

One persons tastes may or may not be yours.

I happen to own a 3 and 5 hp Delta x5 unisaws with 6 and 7 foot tops and Biesemeyer fences. I also have a Jet 1 3/4 hp desiccated datto saw and two other smaller portable table saws for field work.

So what. My point is they are the only saws I have right now and of course I think they are the best ones. I am sure there are a lot of others that work as well or even better and for a lot less money.

When I choose these models I made the choices based on my needs, cost, parts availability, service, a local dealer and what I could afford at the time. I also knew that this wouldnt likely be my last saws. Needs change, there are constant improvements in technology and options.

I think you just have to make the best informed decision for your self based on your needs and other considerations and go with it. The exciting thing is they all cut wood. That is what its all about. Only then after you sample the product for some time will you be able to decide if you like it and it meets your needs and expectations.

Good luck. I’m so happy for you.

-- Dusty

I have a 10 inch delta cabinet saw It has always been a great saw for the past 15 years and would buy another one again if I needed a saw. I added a Incra fence on it a year or so ago with router tables on each side of the saw to save space in the shop. It has worked great, but it is all in what you want to spend and how much you will use. You cant go wrong with Delta but I think some of the Grissley stuff is great.

-- vlee2@ford.com

You may want to watch craigslist. I’ve seen some pretty good saws listed. For example a older delta unisaw for $275 up in the foothills a while back. If you shop carefully, you might find a good deal. Sacramento and the Bay Area have lots of tools.

http://modesto.craigslist.org/

I have an X5 Unisaw. I’ve been very happy with it.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I have a Jet 10” cabinet right tilt 3hp 220 volt 3 belt drive with 50” fence with an HTC roller extension on the back. Put a router insert in the right extension of the table. Love this saw. I did have the Ridgid before and it was a great saw. What ever saw you use have a good blade in it. Makes a big difference.

-- My dad was an electrician, but my fathers a carpenter.

Ethan asked about the router table option – if I were you I would consider the Bench Dog cast iron router table that mounts to your table saw….read the reviews on Amazon. Sounds good, and I like their other products…

http://www.benchdog.com/promax.htm

-- John

A good point, adding a router table to the table saw would be a definite space saver. Also, it would have a built in fence ready to go.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

I have the Ridgid 3650 and absolutely love the saw. Keep in mind that my previous saw (which I still have) was a Craftsman that belonged to my Father-in-law. It was a first wedding anniversary gift from my Mother-in-law to him in 1948. To do an angle cut, the table tilts rather than the blade. It’s dangerous as hell but I used it for many years and it served me very well as it did my Father-in-law who was a cabinetmaker. With that in mind, maybe I’m not the best judge of a nice saw but I’m really very happy with it. I’m a weekend warrior who likes to build furniture. Remember when furniture stores actually sold real furniture?

A couple of questions for the rest of you guys (and gals) who know a whole hell of a lot more than me:

Does anyone have any experience with modifying the rails on this saw to put the greatest extension on the left side of the table rather than the right?

As far as wiring for 220, would that provide any more torque to prevent binding on thicker, harder woods?

Hope to hear from everyone here in my new home!

RC

-- Ron, Bakersfield, CA. Measure twice, cut twice anyway.

I have a General-Int. contractors saw. It is a fine saw but its shortcomings led me to look for a better design.
In my opinion, two things every table saw should have are:
1. Blade shroud under table connected to an exhaust port.
2. Riving knife.
The General has neither and the trunnions quickly get gunked up with sawdust. The Ridgid has a blade shroud
and a low price and from my reading of various forums, Ridgid owners are generally positive about their saws.
I am awaiting delivery on a Jet Deluxe Xacta saw which has a shroud and riving knife.

Ron: wiring for 220v will only draw less amps but should not affect the performance of the motor.

-- - mark