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Forum topic by Bureaucrat posted 06-22-2009 01:24 AM 1469 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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18339 posts in 3648 days

06-22-2009 01:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw question

I have a 9” Craftsman band saw that has a 1/3 hp motor. I got it from my brother in law who said he never could get it to work quite right. I used it today and had some trouble with the blade popping off the wheels. I did get a lot of burning on the cuts whether I was cutting straight (or trying to) or making a curve. I did notice that there were sparks in the kerf. I was cutting red oak.
Is this sparking unusual? I expect that the burning on the cut is because the blade is shot. Do you agree?
I did some adjusting and reduced the incidence of blade popping off; but did not eliminate it. Could pushing a dull blade lead to pop offs?

-- Gary D. Stoughton, WI

3 replies so far

View rwyoung's profile


409 posts in 3467 days

#1 posted 06-22-2009 01:38 AM

The sparking is likely because the blade is striking something, probably the side bearings. The blade is likely been beat up pretty bad with bent teeth or the set has been taken out from striking the side bearings.

Is this a 2 or 3 wheel band saw? Either type it is important that you get the blade tracking in the center of the wheels. One major adjustment to get this to happen is to have all the wheels in the exact same plane. A 2 wheel saw is easier to adjust. Most likely you will need to get some shim washers (or make some yourself from thin brass or even soda can aluminum) to get the wheels perfectly in line.

Also, it would be very helpfull vibration wise if the wheels spun true.

The rubber tires (often made of urethene) on the wheels should have a little bit of hump around the circumfrence. And they should be a little bit “grippy”. If not, they might need replacing.

The side to side or thrust bearings/blocks should just miss kissing the blade by about 1/32” or less. There should be four of these, two above and two below the table. If they are true bearings and spin, they can just kiss the blade but if they are simple blocks or pins, you really don’t want the blade dragging on them (aftermarket Coolblocks not withstanding). Likewise, there should be two rear guide bearings. These should just miss the blade by 1/32” or less.

And the opening in the table should clear the blade. In short, nothing should be dragging on the blade.

You can find several videos on tuning up a bandsaw at and And I think some over at too. All good information.

Good luck with the bandsaw. Look into getting a new blade, maybe a 1/4” for fine curves and a 3/8” for everything else. Not at all sure the widest blade that will allow but maybe you can find a manual.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

View patron's profile


13603 posts in 3337 days

#2 posted 06-22-2009 01:50 AM

ther was just a very good bandsaw adjusting tip here resently about drift ,it was complete .
i would say you have many accumulated misalignment problems
go to woodwispere #13 about all alignment problems
can be found in gary fixler #2 blog about his sled and a reaponce from garyK in thet with highlite to thewwodwisperer site

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Bureaucrat's profile


18339 posts in 3648 days

#3 posted 06-22-2009 03:02 AM

Thanks guys. Looks like I have a bit of work ahead of me.

-- Gary D. Stoughton, WI

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