Adding sliding drawers to Cabinets

thelt, I by know means am an expert, but seems your biggest problem is with the sides only being 1/4” if thicker I would suggest just adding stripes to bring it out flush with your face frame.I have done this before. With the sides being 1/4” seems to me you would have to make and entire panel to add to your sides, by the time you do that seems it would be easier to just make new boxes. I am sure you will get more and better advice.

-- F.Little

If the sides are indeed 1/4” material…

How about wooden rails to mount the slides flush with the inner edge of the face frame, mounted to several 3 or 4” wide x 3/4” thick vertical wooden rails?

You could screw and epoxy the vertical rails to the sides, front, and back. The vertical rails would run from top to bottom, one each against the inside front and back, and intermediates as needed. Once they’re solid, mount your wooden mounts and metal slides. Good quality metal slides have a decent amount of rigidity themselves, I’m sure the assembly would be plenty strong.

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread...

When I worked at a cabinet factory, we put metal hardware drawer runners in. The pullouts fit between the face frames. This works fine.

-- Berta in NC

If you are making new drawers and want to mount them to the face frames, there is an easy full extension slide with an optional face frame mounting kit. Look at figure 2 for what it looks like installed. You will need to use the correct slides for the kit.

Here is the link:

http://www.accuride.com/Resources/PDF/3832FFCK-R10-0708.pdf

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

Hey thelt
They make conectors(they sell them at Lowes) that atach to the back of the cabinet or back wall the you glides fit into this conectors they will take care of the 4” problem. Then glue blocks or strips of wood behind your face frame to attach you glide to that in the front. If you have the time I would remake the face frames 1/4”are really substandard you could possible go over the face frames you have if your counter top will allow. Then can be made fairly easy if you invest in a kreg pocket hole jig They start as low as $20 for the most basic model.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

In Udo Schmidt’s book on Building Kitchen Cabinets, he uses a U-shaped wooden frame to install side-mount drawer slides in face frame cabinets.

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

I have seen what Richforever is talking about in Schmidt’s book and I agree that would be your easest & best option.

-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com

I would like to know what these u shaped woodens framed look like.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

a1Jim, it’s not the face frame that’s 1/4”. It’s the side panels of the cabinet. The face frame is 3/4”. But I see what you are talkiing about doing and that may be a solution.

John, I also like your link to Accuride, but that would mean I couldn’t use the existing drawer slides I already have. But I haven’t ruled out just buying new slides too.

I haven’t seen Schmidt’s book and I’m not sure what rich and sandhill are talking about. Maybe somebody has a drawing of these U-shaped wooden frames.

-- There are three signs of old age. The first is loss of memory. I forgot the other two!

here are links to some slide hardware from lee valley that should work
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=56376&cat=3,43614,43616&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=41851&cat=3,43614,43616&ap=2
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=45056&cat=3,43614,43616&ap=2
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50509&cat=3,43614,43616&ap=2
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40592&cat=3,43614,43616&ap=2

Check out Rockler woodworking for hardware needs. They have some great stuff, and you’ll get ideas just from looking at their selection. As for matching stains, my way of doing this if you’re thinking of shelac or a poly finish
you directly mix oil paints into poly, they mix well to tint the poly then thin it out with turps or paint thinner.
Burnt Umber – umber -Raw Seinna – titanium white – black – some yellow- I can mix n match most finish restorations with these. Good Luck. If you want a little help on color finishing tips without buying expensive powder pigments drop me a line. I can help figure this out with you. I’ve also heated and tinted watco danish oil
and butchers wax for some nice restorations. Not by the book but much easier and cheaper than the pigment kits.
I have some great books on restoration and faux finishes that have formulas for matching, If you need I’ll scan you some pages.
Pat

-- PJM.`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ ><((((º> ""BY HAMMER AND HAND ALL ARTS DO STAND""1785-1974 nyc Semper Fi, Patrick M

The easiest way is to use L brackets to mount your sliding drawers to the exisiting cabinet shelves. No need to modify anything and they are the strongest way to mount.
http://www.slideoutshelvesllc.com/store/HARDWARE/c11/p112/L-Brackets/product_info.html

-- http://www.slideoutshelvesllc.com

Thanks, slideoutshelves! That will work for the bottom shelf just great, but what do I do for the top shelf?

-- There are three signs of old age. The first is loss of memory. I forgot the other two!

If you have shelves in the top currently, the L brackets can be used there also. If there is no shelving, use the rear sockets.

-- http://www.slideoutshelvesllc.com