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Bandsaw accessory Little Ripper from Stockroom Supply

19K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  Ian123 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I saw this bandsaw jig/sled at the Tampa woodworking show this weekend. It works well and looks like it is a quality product. The demos were impressive. Including using the jig as a jointer.

However, the cost of $349 is steep. I think the $349 included a track to slide it on. They also had a larger version available. Not sure of the price on the larger unit.

It is similar to many DIY resaw jigs on LJ. They could be built for much less. The biggest difference I saw between this jig and the shop made jigs are the track it slides on.

Wanted to know if anyone has used one of these jigs. Is it any different than other resaw jigs?

http://stockroomsupply.ca/shop/little-ripper.html
 
#3 ·
I bought one and love it! Actually I got myself in a bit of hot water on another forum and have entered a "veneer cutting showdown" where I am to use my Little Ripper. I'm just waiting on my official piece of oak so I can make my veneers.
Here's a video of my first time using my jig.
 
#4 ·
I have actually been following that thread, and love what's going on over there…. Jeff that thread has actually opened my eyes to something I have SELDOM, if ever, seen mentioned anywhere besides that thread. It's in regards to using a "Short Fence" when resawing. This makes a lot of sense and in my few experiments have found it to be very useful for my current situation.

My question to this forum is why don't we see that technique used more often??? Using the short fence approach is genius if you want to prevent binding from pressure release coming from a freshly cut board.

What am I missing?

You have your hands full trying to beat the guy with the old burswell, or whatever it's called, he is a freaking MASTER… But I sure wish you luck, Jeff!!!

I bought one and love it! Actually I got myself in a bit of hot water on another forum and have entered a "veneer cutting showdown" where I am to use my Little Ripper. I m just waiting on my official piece of oak so I can make my veneers.
Here s a video of my first time using my jig.


- BandsawJeff
 
#5 ·
I have actually been following that thread, and love what s going on over there…. Jeff that thread has actually opened my eyes to something I have SELDOM, if ever, seen mentioned anywhere besides that thread. It s in regards to using a "Short Fence" when resawing. This makes a lot of sense and in my few experiments have found it to be very useful for my current situation.

My question to this forum is why don t we see that technique used more often??? Using the short fence approach is genius if you want to prevent binding from pressure release coming from a freshly cut board.

What am I missing?

You have your hands full trying to beat the guy with the old burswell, or whatever it s called, he is a freaking MASTER… But I sure wish you luck, Jeff!!!
Yes I agree a short fence is a better idea. Definitely eliminates a portion of the blade binding issue. But i still don't think it is the BEST idea.

IMO the BEST idea is a carriage like the Little Ripper. A short fence still has a problem with the wood itself…it must be perfectly jointed on two sides so it does not rock or move. Whereas with the little ripper you can throw whatever you want in the claws….log, burl, rough sawn oak, ect….and it doesn't make a difference. It will not rock or move on the track. The track is your perfectly jointed face.

But thankyou for the luck! I agree my competition is pretty skilled…but as the least skilled if I win it just proves how well the little ripper actually works.
Since I've owned it I have not had one issue with drift…I've even played around with my guides like Ethan does on the video…still cuts straight lol.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Looks like a pretty expensive solution to a non-existent problem IMO. This will get the same results and doesn t cost anything but a few cents to make:

Wood Tool Workbench Hardwood Wood stain


Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix
Interesting little holders you've made Brad. I'd love to see them in action!

But to say drift is a nonexistant problem is crazy…I bet if you ask 100 people who have cut with a bandsaw "have you had problems with drift?" 98 of them would say yes in some way or another.

But the ripper doesn't just eliminate drift. It also allows me to cut a log anyway I want…flat sawn, rift sawn or quarter.
 

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#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well here's my question…
If drift is a nonexistant problem why does Mr.Snodgrass sell fancy guides, fancy blades, fancy tensioners and even give setup instructions? The fact that Carter is in business proves bandsaw drift is a huge issue!

Honestly I prefer to use my common sense than listen to the way people have done it for years because that's the way it should be done.
This make sense to me, by Ethan over at stockroom supply
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well here s my question… If drift is a nonexistant problem why does Mr.Snodgrass sell fancy guides, fancy blades, fancy tensioners and even give setup instructions?
- BandsawJeff
Watch the video - he isn't selling anything, just showing how to properly setup a bandsaw. He just happens to work for Carter, but the only thing he mentions about them (and shows in action) is the stabilizer, which is way cool if you want to do scroll work on a band saw.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#11 ·
Watch my video also…
Ethan also isn't selling anything. Just showing he can cut perfectly straight doing essentially that exact opposite of what Alex says. Takes his guides off, lowers his tension, uses a 3/8" blade and even messes with where the blade sits on the wheel.
I don't know whether Ethan or Alex is right…but I do know I own a little ripper…and I can now cut perfectly straight without having to worry about any setup.
food for thought
 
#12 ·
All I know is my Rikon326 has drift and I've bought jigs that supposedly solve the problem. This is the first one that makes any sense to me and I like that they show extensive videos of it in action even with incorrect setups. Every bandsaw I've owned has had drift. I wish I was lucky enough to have one that didn't but they ll have. I've got mine on order so I'll be able to tell you my experience.
 
#13 ·
Ill admit I am probably nowhere near as experienced on the bandsaw as some of you guys but here is my experience with regard to drift. I have found when setting up my bandsaw that drift appears to be more of an effect of how the blade is riding on the crown of the wheels than an inherent quality of the bandsaw blade. I am able to remove drift by adjusting where my blade is riding on the wheels rather than fool with aligning the fence to drift.

George
 
#16 ·
Better off making your own set up. I bought the little ripper and quite frankly it is overpriced junk. I had to modify three parts right out of the box just to get it to work. Can't cut much longer then the carriage, unless you buy another one. Very flimsy for long cuts. Their blades, which cut smooth and track well, dull very quickly, very expensive low grade tool.
 
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