Stopping Tear out on Pine

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Forum topic by EdsCustomWoodCrafts posted 03-19-2015 06:42 PM 1329 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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782 posts in 1365 days

03-19-2015 06:42 PM

I’m looking for a solution … I’m going to be cutting 12” wide pine board on s table saw and I don’t want anymore tearouts…

I read a couple of solutions and I’m wondering if taping the board with tape at the point of entry and exit will work.. Other tried and tested options are most welcome


-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”

10 replies so far

View HornedWoodwork's profile


222 posts in 1236 days

#1 posted 03-19-2015 07:09 PM

A better saw blade would be the best option. If you are using the one that came with the TS that is likely the biggest cause. You could also try attaching a sacrificial board to the one you are cutting with double sided tape. It’s not the best solution but it will stop the tear out caused by the blade blasting out the end of the cut.

Maybe try raising or lowering the blade so that the gullets between the teeth work more efficiently (center the gullet) and that might help as well. Masking tape could help, but it’s not a real fix.

-- Talent, brilliance, and humility are my virtues.

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2391 days

#2 posted 03-19-2015 07:18 PM

I know it’s not pine, but I just got done cutting a whole lot of DF for my new bench top and vise jaws. I used Freud rip/crosscut blades and a ZCI, and backed up the piece on crosscuts. Cuts were very clean.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View greg48's profile


601 posts in 2779 days

#3 posted 03-19-2015 07:41 PM

Try a zero clearance throat plate on your saw table. A dedicated rip blade (thin kerf) is also recommended. I use a Freud, but they are a bit spendy.

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

View AlaskaGuy's profile


4201 posts in 2331 days

#4 posted 03-19-2015 08:13 PM

Must me a saw blade or saw set up issue. I don’t get tear out when ripping pine.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Ghidrah's profile


667 posts in 1244 days

#5 posted 03-19-2015 10:09 PM

I have to ask what is your method for cross cut? Are you using the fence, miter gauge or panel sled?
Is the fence, miter gauge or panel sled square to the blade?
Does the miter gauge have a backer and is it or the sled set for a zero clearance cut at the blade?
If you’re using a panel sled and it is -0- to the blade then it doesn’t matter if the insert is -0- or not.

-- I meant to do that!

View greg48's profile


601 posts in 2779 days

#6 posted 03-19-2015 10:19 PM

I have to respond back Ed, I was under the impression that you were ripping pine boards. If you are crosscutting, ignore my initial response. Build yourself a crosscut sled (2 runners)!! You’ll never regret it.

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2657 posts in 2943 days

#7 posted 03-20-2015 12:46 AM

I would cut it with a sliding miter saw with a cross cut “fine cut” blade with a backer. I cut cedar and pine and fir like this all the time. I never cross cut on my table saw so I have a rip blade that gives me glue up ready cuts there.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View firefighterontheside's profile


18351 posts in 1878 days

#8 posted 03-20-2015 12:52 AM

Crosscut blade like others have said. You shouldn’t get any tear out as long as you feed into the blade slowly. Tear out comes from teeth taking too big of a bite. That won’t happen with a good crosscut blade.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View Roger's profile


20928 posts in 2826 days

#9 posted 03-22-2015 11:53 AM

As many has said, a good x-cut blade and definitely need a zero clearance throat plate.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed.

View AlaskaGuy's profile


4201 posts in 2331 days

#10 posted 03-22-2015 04:52 PM

Now that I realize your crosscutting and not ripping.

When I cross cut on the table saw I use a backer board on the exit side of the stock. It the same idea of using a backer board with make cope cuts for cabinet doors on the router table or shaper. Never have a problem with the entry cut …...

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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