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Plane then cut to length, or cut to length then plane?

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Forum topic by AESamuel posted 03-19-2015 02:01 PM 817 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AESamuel

61 posts in 685 days


03-19-2015 02:01 PM

Hi there,

I’m making a planter box out of oak and the boards I’m using are about 14”x 6” which I’m milling by hand out of larger band sawn planks which are about 22” x 10”

I decided it would be less work planing if I cut the boards to length because there was an upwards curve at the ends of the boards and generally because of the less amount of wood that physically needed planing. I set to work with my cheapy-scrub and wooden bodied jack/jointer which is around 17” long and I kept getting a belly in the middle of the board. I stopped and had a quick think about the pressure I was putting on the plane and made sure that I was doing front pressure at the beginning, and rear pressure at the end of the stroke and still no change in the belly!
Then I remembered watching a video by Shannon Rogers, the ‘renaissance woodworker’ about how you might want to avoid using planes longer than the board you’re planing because of the tendency to rock it forwards and backwards. I switched to my No.4 stanley and got a much flatter board.

Now after the rambling to introduce my question, in general what is your method when flattening boards? Do you leave the board longer and use the longer plane and then cut to length? Or do you cut to length and use the shorter planes? I only have a scrub, the jack and the smoother.

I realise the post was a bit here and there but I just wanted to explain my situation, haha!

Many thanks,
Asa Samuel


7 replies so far

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 693 days


#1 posted 03-19-2015 02:05 PM

plane then cut. This reduces the possibilities of the woods rough state, pre planed, getting the cut inaccurate. You can rough cut it then plane if you are talking about hand planing and dont want to break your back over a large piece of stock.

Dimension the lumber. When right in thk and one good edge then rip and crosscut.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Tim's profile

Tim

3113 posts in 1424 days


#2 posted 03-19-2015 02:39 PM

If you’re milling by hand then cut to length and rip then plane for the reason you said. You don’t have to remove as much material to get cups and bows out.

Nice switching to the right plane. Technically with better form you should be able to get that belly out with the jointer plane too, but who’s perfect? It’s all about improving and having fun.

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JayT

4777 posts in 1674 days


#3 posted 03-19-2015 03:22 PM

I rough cut the dimensions (generally about 1/2in extra on length and 1/4in on width), then rough plane with the jack to get out any cup, twist, etc. That helps to remove as little material as possible. while still giving a little margin for error. Then flatten with the jointer plane, cut to final dimension and smoother to finish.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Andre's profile

Andre

1022 posts in 1269 days


#4 posted 03-19-2015 03:34 PM

+1 to JayT, except I leave a couple of inches and if ends are dove Tails at least 4 mistake extra, usually on the last piece! LOL

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2192 posts in 943 days


#5 posted 03-19-2015 04:34 PM

+1 JayT

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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JayT

4777 posts in 1674 days


#6 posted 03-19-2015 04:55 PM



if ends are dove Tails at least 4 mistake extra, usually on the last piece! LOL

- rad457

Now why didn’t I think of that! :-)

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 949 days


#7 posted 03-19-2015 05:28 PM

+1

I use twisted lumber a lot and I leave a bit extra just in case I have snipe in my planer.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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