Video of the Delta T2 (now T3) table saw fence anyone?

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Forum topic by petergdenmark posted 03-19-2015 12:23 PM 2697 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View petergdenmark's profile


55 posts in 1837 days

03-19-2015 12:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: delta t2 delta t3 delta table saw fence fitting table saw fence

Hello fellows

I have an old Cabinet style table saw. A Wadkin AGS 10 which looks almost identical to the old Unisaws. It’s a pretty good saw, but it has issues. The table wings are not completely straight, and the fence is HORRIBLE. I mean – it might have been ok when it was new, with the round fence rails etc, but now it’s near impossible to get it to line up with the mitre slots, and the previous owner bendt the fence and guide rods somewhat.

I’ve been trying to get the materials to build a new T-square fence system myself (like in the Ak Woodman video on youtube), but we don’t have any metal outlets here, so i ordered the materials online, and endede up with a heap of pretty expensive (like £200), but not very straight metal bits, which where useless as a fence system.

After that i’ve made due with the old fence, but it’s just no fun woodworking when you have to account for inaccuracies in the tools.

So very recently i found out that it’s just become possible to import a DELTA 36-T30 T3 30-Inch Fence and Rail system to Sweden, where i live (you cannot buy an aftermarked TS fence in the EU). With that system it would be easy to make my own TS wings, and the fence problem would be solved. The only thing is, that being in the EU, i have to void ANY warranty and returns claim, and the shipping and import taxes are about $120 on top of the purchase price. So i would end up speding around $320.

So i’ve read a lot of review, and they are generally positive, but i would really love to see a video of the fence system. See how the “glide pad” that rides on the back rail is attached. See how far the front rail has to be below the table surface. How straight is the fence (is it hit or mis if i get a fence that is totally straight/should i expect it to be out by ½ a mm). Se if the fence is stiff enough, that it doesn’t deflect too badly. Is the guide tube strong enough to withstand hte load from locking and unlocking the fence And maybe just get an overall idea of what to expect?

So – if one of the owner of this system would grab their smart phone (or whatever), go to their shop and shoot a video of it, and upload it, unedited or edited – it really doesn’t matter, and post a link to it, when uploaded, i would be very grateful.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

8 replies so far

View TarHeelz's profile


44 posts in 1500 days

#1 posted 03-19-2015 12:36 PM

Sorry I cannot help on the video. Just a thought: Once you’re stuck with $320 for a new fence on a saw that is both old and without a flat set of wings (a future project of tedium), it would seem you are getting close to the tipping point for searching for a new (or new to you used) saw without the problems. I’m assuming you will sell your current saw AND the steel you cannot use too.

Your plan will likely work but it may come down to how much value you assign to the future frustrations with your saw’s “issues.”

-- Tar Heelz, Durham, NC USA

View hotbyte's profile


825 posts in 2394 days

#2 posted 03-19-2015 12:37 PM

Sorry, no video but I installed a T2 on my late 80’s Craftsman 113 saw. It upgraded use of my saw tremendously over the stock fence. To hopefully address some of your questions…
- Glide pad on back rail – the back rail is a piece of angle iron mounted to table/extensions. The glide pad is attached to the bottom side of the fence itself and simply rests on the angle iron. There is a small clip that attaches to the fence to hold the rear of fence down but it is not a secure fit. In other words, the rear of fence can still lift a small amount. There is no locking of the rear portion of fence.
- Front rail distance from top of table – I don’t know exact distance but if I recall correctly it is just below the bottom of the miter gauge slot. To position mine, I put a laminate counter top sample chip under the fence and aligned rail to this position.
- Stiffness of fence – it seems very stiff to me but I’ve never owned/used any of the higher cost fences. It is a heavy piece of square tubing with aluminum faces on each side.
- Guide tube strength – yes, it seems to be very capable of handling the locking/unlocking, positioning, etc. of the fence.

Again, it gave my old Craftsman new life. I was very close to getting rid of it and buying a new saw when I learned of retrofitting a T2 fence.

View petergdenmark's profile


55 posts in 1837 days

#3 posted 03-19-2015 01:16 PM

Regarding getiing a new saw, it is just not as easy here as in North America. Regular outlet only sells cheap contractor saws, with ONLY aluminum tables sh** fences, and even they are like $600. The cheapest of the higher end table saws start at $1500, and getting a good one is hit or mis, and arbor run out is a given.They rarely have mitre slots, but instead they have wonky sliding table, that are near impossible to get to level and square. So to be sure you get a decent saw, you have to dole out at least $3000. The used marked reflect the same thing a LOT of bad contractor saws for cheap, and the better ones are in the $1000, and are always from professionals, that gave the saw HEAVY use, so saw marks in the fence, pitted and a lot of times chipped tables. Oh – and no stacked dado blades.

So living in a smaller Country with free medical care, @20 minimum wage, and 6 weeks of vacation has many advantages, but enterprise aimed at private consumers is not one of them:).

This saw cost me $300, i’ve refurbished the 3HP motor, fixed all arbor run out, made good dust collection for it, welded a dedicated big sturdy mobile base, it accepts @12 inch blades (for shorter periods od times as the 1960’s manual states),it cuts through 100mm of oak like butter and it accepts a full dado stack, which i had custom bored for the unusual 20mm arbor. So for now – i’m sticking with it, and if $300 is all that is left to get it fully functional, then i’m a happy camper. (and i’ve used the steel to weld an outdoor woodrack, to cut my loses :) ).

Hotbyte – how is the angle iron the gliding block is mounted on secured to the fence? Screw or welded? I’m not sure i will mount the back rail, since i’m contemplating making an outfeed table bolted directly to the saw. So i was thinking of attaching a uhmw block to the fence, to glide directly on the table, like the biesemeyer.

Also – if you wouldn’t mind checkin how far below the table the from rail angle iron sits precisely, i would be glad, since i need to check if it is at all possible to mount it on my saw.

I appologize for my english – it is clearly not my first language :).

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View hotbyte's profile


825 posts in 2394 days

#4 posted 03-19-2015 03:37 PM

The angle iron I mentioned is the back rail and it is bolted to the saw table and extension wings. I’ve never seen the bottom of a biesemeyer fence but would guess the glide on the bottom of the T2 is attached similar to the bies. It sounds like the glide block slides on the rear rail, i.e. angle iron, similar to what you describe the bies block gliding on the table. Question…what happens as the bies fence crossed over a miter slot? The rear rail on the T2 is continuous so it continues to provide support as fence passes the miter slot.

I added a short outfeed extension on my say that is about 8 inches deep. I then can put a longer outfeed table against the extension if needed. I attached L brackets to the same bolts that hold the rear rail on. I was then able to attach the outfeed extension to these brackets.

View smitdog's profile


225 posts in 1524 days

#5 posted 03-19-2015 04:19 PM

How hard is it to get aluminum extrusion in Sweden? It’s pretty easy to make a very precise, rigid, light weight fence system using extrusions and linear bearings. Here in the states you can get pieces from a place called 80/20, I just looked on ebay and they have a 2” x 4” (50mm x 100mm) that is 96.5” long (2450mm) which is more than long enough for both the rail and fence for $105 US plus shipping. They have a heavy walled version for a higher price that would probably be better. They only list US for shipping but you may be able to get them somewhere that will ship to you if you don’t have a local source. Add some t-slot bolts, angle iron for the T, and linear bearings that ride in the t-slots and you’ve got a sweet fence that you can attach accessories to via the t-slots. If you only want a 30” rail on the TS you’d even have extra to cut a chunk to mount to a router table or bandsaw so you can use the same fence for everything.

I just finished a similar setup (still have to work on mounting the rail) using aluminum extrusions from a large drafting table that I had sitting around taking up space. Once I get it mounted to the saw I’ll have to measure deflection but so far it feels rock solid when I clamp it down.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do!

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

View hotbyte's profile


825 posts in 2394 days

#6 posted 03-19-2015 04:41 PM

PS – I’ll try to get a measurement this evening after work.

View petergdenmark's profile


55 posts in 1837 days

#7 posted 03-19-2015 10:23 PM

Thank you for the suggestion. I have checked aluminum extrusions out after seeing Alan Littles videos on YouTube (AskWoodman og VerySuperCoolTools). But the extrusion is unfortunately very expensive here, at around $60 pr 1000mm for 40×80mm extrusions, and they will not ship items bigger than 1 meter, which means i would have a 300 mile drive :).,and then i would still need the angle iron, and other parts. Importing things from outside the EU approximately doubles the price with shipping, import taxes, and vat.

hotbyte – on the Biesemeyer fence the uhmw block is just slottet into 2 predrilled holes, and the uhmw has corresponding pins – so just a friction fit. It’s wide enough to offer support even when over the mitre slots. Thank you for taking the time to take the measurements.

I’ve spent so much time on this old house me and my wife lives in, doing heavy construction, so i was just hoping the Delta T3 would be and easy fix :).

I’m still hoping somebody will see this, that could be bothered to make a short video.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

View hotbyte's profile


825 posts in 2394 days

#8 posted 03-20-2015 01:32 AM

The glide block bridging the miter slot makes sense…

I didn’t get out to shop this evening but I remembered this write-up I did when I installed the fence. You can see the distance from table top to top edge of rail in the pictures. Also, the 2nd blog entry shows the extensions I added.

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