Need your advice, Jocks!

1 1/2 compared to 1 3/4 – no big difference.

I don’t care for the fact that theres no riving knive on the Jet – this is their older stock which they are trying to clear out in order to make room for their next models which WILL include a riving knives.. a good bargain nonetheless!

the sliding table is GREAT! ~$500+ as an after market accessory.

I would personally have trouble with the 52” fence as this requires the extra space – just another thing to consider.

if you have the space for it, and don’t mind giving up the riving knife – this IS a terrific opportunity.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Check the miter slots. They are not in the standard locations on that saw. If you have a lot of stuff that uses the miter slots, you might want to look at something other than the Jet. The sliding table is a great accessory though.

First things first…do you have 220v available? If so, the Grizzly 1023SL is $1075 shipped, and is an industrial 3hp cabinet saw. It doesn’t offer the slider but is one robust machine in comparison to a hybrid saw.

The “new & improved” Super Saw seemed overpriced when they introduced it. I can’t recall seeing any posts from anyone who’s actually purchased this version of the saw up to now, which supports my opinion that it was priced too high initially.

$895 shipped seems like a nice deal…great fence, 52” rip, sliding table, full enclosure, heavy, etc., but there are a couple of things worth considering before jumping aboard. This is an older hybrid format that uses table mounted trunnions and connecting rods as an arbor carriage. All other hybrids except for the current Delta use either cabinet mounted trunnions with either a one-piece cast arbor carriage or the connecting rods, or table mounted trunnions with the one-piece cast arbor carriage (the Jet Proshop and Workshop saws included). That’s not to say that this trunnion design will be a problem, but it has fewer advantages over the alternatives. It also still uses a unique belt system to raise and lower the blade…the original Super Saws had issues with that design, but they’ve supposedly worked out the bugs with it.

$895 shipped would have me intrigued if I were in the market for a 120v saw, but I would research potential issues with the trunnion design before buying.

Overall, I think the Jet is a nicer saw than the new Ridgid, but it’s not a “no brainer” by any means. I like the trunnion system on the Ridgid better, but I suspect the build quality of the Jet is better. The granite top is not something I’d choose if given a choice, though it has some things going for it (no rust). Motor power is probably too close to call. The slider, the Exacta II fence, and the 52” rip capacity should offset the loss of the Herculift and riving knife IMHO….you can add wheels, a good splitter, and possibly even a BORK riving knife to the Jet.

Thanks… I think it’s going to come down to space. I hadn’t really thought through the ramifications of a 52” rip capacity… and realistically, with a 11 foot wide space, if I did end up with a 52” fence, I’d need the ability to move it… thus bringing the Ridgid back into the lead perhaps?

Appreciate the advice… Keep it coming!

-- Ryno

My 2 cents worth… I am a 1 1/2 year old woodworker. Like you, I studied, reviewed,questioned,thought about…etc..etc..etc… my 1st table saw. Also like you, I knew I would not be doing heavy duty work. So, I settled on the Ridgid 3650. I LOVE THIS SAW! I have done more than I thought I would do and it has met every need so far. I did see a Ridgid table saw a woodworking show that I went to that a granite top (not sure of model #). Although I really liked the cabinet, I was not too impressed with the granite top. So, in summary, you need to be sure to research ALL the TS in your price range THOROUGHLY and then compare them to find the one that fits your space and need.

-- Randy, Allen Texas

Ryan, After reading Scotts comment about the trunnion, and the odd miter slots from David – I take it back- I probably would go back with my original purchase -the Ridgid. it just works!

OR. if you’re not in a rush – I’d wait half a year to a year or so until Jet and Delta clear their old stock inventory, and come out with new models that will have the riving knives built in, and probably some other better upgrades.

Just thinking out loud – although as you know – I’m extremely happy with mine.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Hey Ryno
As far as the Jet sliding table, I don’t think it’s worth while, they have one were I teach adult woodworking and It’s to small to do much good and it makes attching an outfeed table all but impossible to install.
The first thing after you consider the HP and price your in is the FENCE FENCE FENCE It’s the main adjustment your will use over and over on a table saw. If the fence is bad useing the saw is a pain. You can upgrade fences but it will cost you $250-$450 more. The Jets I’ve used there stock fences suck. The older Ridgid They sold before the grainte top model hade a fence that slid as smooth as butter and locked very well.
I’m with scott in that I like grizzly products,but I have never owned a grizzly table saw. One option is to find a good used Powermatic 66 ,I have the 5hp model and love it. I see them on craigs list and e bay in the price range your thinking about.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

I got that same email today!! Made me wish I was in the market with a grand to spend. I have to tell you, that is an awesome deal on that saw. We are a Jet dealer at my job, and I see all the promo’s, this is the time to buy if you want it. They only have limited availability on the saw so if you want it, better get it before they’re gone!!
Even if you’re not a big furniture builder, you may be one day! And just look at the real estate on the right side of the fence!!
You should ask Damian Penney how he likes his!

-- Matt, Houston Texas

There are so many Powermatic on craigs list I’d up grade my old Craftsman if I had the room. The only thing I have against it is the fence. Like Jim says, if the fence is a pain, the saw is a pain,

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

I would definitely buy a powermatic with a biesemeyer fence, I bought mine that way. If this is something you would consider.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

The images I’ve seen of the Jet show a blade guard with what looks like a riving knife, and if it doesn’t come with one stock, I’m sure you can purchase one. the Unisaw I have in my shop are about 20 years old and they didn’t come stock with riving knives but we were able to purchase an attachment that allows us to place one in the saw. Just a thought.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

I may be uninformed but I have not seen a true riving knife that can be added to older saws.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

”I may be uninformed but I have not seen a true riving knife that can be added to older saws.”

Hi Jim – The Bolt On Ripping Knife (BORK) is as close as it gets, depending on how you define “true riving knife”. The BORK travels up and down and tilts with the blade, and sits in close proximity to the blade like a true riving knife. The difference is that a “true riving knife” travels up and down vertically, while the BORK travels in a slight arc because it’s at the end of a swing arm.

I have a Delta Unisaw, 3 hp (220v), with a 52” table and Biesemeyer fence, but I find that just as often I use my Festool TS-55, MFT/3, and CT22. Dust collection, accuracy, safety, and clean cut (even on Melamine) are all inherent in the Festool. You should consider it, although you rarely see any Festool products on craigslist (Maybe that tells you something, too.). Also, don’t forget that the cost of a table saw is only the beginning. You then have the miter unit, the dust collector, the tenon jig, dado set, zero clearance inserts, hold down units, grippers and other safety accessories, various jigs, outfeed table, etc., etc., not to mention all the room it takes up or the temptation to remove the guard.

Thanks! Lots to think about…
I have been doing a ton of Craigslist surfing, have yet to see a powermatic for sale around here (Eastern MA), cause if I saw one with a biesmeyer fence, I’d snap it up in a heartbeat.

The fence… you’re totally right, and it’s because of the fence that I’m getting a new saw in the first place. I’ve been able to see the Ridgid fence up close and personal, and while it’s a definite upgrade from what I have now it’s no biesmeyer.

I think it’s going to come down to space. I need to really figure out if a 52” fence is going to work for my current shop…

-- Ryno

Ryno – If the length of the rails is the only major stumbling block, you can always cut them down (blasphemy, but possible!), or trade or sell them and get shorter rails. The full size Biesemeyer commercial, Jet Exacta, PM Accufence, General T-Fence, Shop Fox Classic, and HTC Multi-Fences all fit the same 2” x 3” rail stock. You can even buy raw steel tube stock.

Knotscott, good point about the rails, I hadn’t even considered it.

Jim, I’ve never even seen a sliding table in person, but from what I’ve seen online, I really like it in principle. As far as outfeed goes, my plan is to build a workbench, set it about 16” out from the saw, and add a “filler” that I can rout out miter slots into the top. I’m thinking that I could just make it more of an “L” shape to allow for the travel of the sliding table? Thoughts?

I’m entering into this with a lot more to think about than I originally considered… Thank for all your advice!

-- Ryno

i bought a small ryobi for jobsite work that has a sliding crosscut on it , but as jim point out , it gets in the way of many ripping jobs and has to be removed .
much easyer to have a good sled to crosscut when you need it !

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart

Hey Ryno
The sliding table is I would guess 18-24” and extends beyond the rear of the saw. I doubt you will be happy with and out feed 16” away from your table saw plus it will be dangerous in some operations. You can make a sled to do cross cuts on your table saw that will work much better and easily removable. The out feed is another one of those things you use 90% of your operations it’s much more important than a built in sliding table, The concept is cool but not that actual use. In the last 5 years my class has had the slider jet but the students still go to another table saw and use a shop made sled.
Hey Scott
The Bork is interesting but without the vertical travel it’s not something I would invest in. I think it’s one of those things when you want a porsche don’t buy a volkswagen with a porsche fiberglass front end.LOL

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

Jim – The BORK does travel vertically, just not straight up…it follows an arc path similar to the saw blade going up and down. In this case, the arc is unavoidable as a retrofit to an existing saw with a swing arm…for ~ $100, it’s a great addition to something like the Griz 1023 or Craftsman 22124, as opposed to buying a new saw.

Scott
Well that sounds pretty good. Fairly reasonable too. I guess I missed that the first time around.
I looked on line and couldn’t find were they sell them.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

Hi Jim – The BORK is sold by Walnut Acres Woodworking (Bob Ross). I believe he offers a forum discount…Bob could tell you the details.

Hey Scott
Thanks for the link and info. I’ll have to give one a spin.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

So, did you end up getting one of these? My husband and I went to the local Wood Worker’s Club and purchased one on June 14 and were told it would take a week or two to arrive. I just got a phone call (7/10) that the people at Jet just informed the manager that the offer was void because they ran out of units. Why did it take them two weeks to contact them, I don’t know.

The manager is trying his best to offer us a similar saw from Jet, but without a sliding table and for an additional amount to cover his costs. I’m now looking into getting a Grizzly.

If you managed to acquire one of these, please let me know what you think of the saw.

-- "They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night." ~ Edgar Allan Poe

mmh, I ended up with a Craftsman 22124 instead, and I have to say I’m EXTREMELY pleased… I found one on clearance (floor model) at a local Sears, and was able to pick it up for under $800. The biggest selling point for me was the Biesemeyer fence. I figure, if the fence alone is a $300 upgrade, I got the saw for $500, which to me is a screamin’ deal. I ended up buying a mobile base from Rockler on sale for $50 and I couldn’t be happier!

-- Ryno

Ryno,
Deciding on a new TS is always a big deal, no matter the budget.

I always try to consider realistically how I am going to use my new equipment and try and match the machine to that and hopefully my budget as well. So for me as a casual hobbyist the R4511 was a good match in price($450), quality, fence, hybrid design, cutting capacity, and portability.

I am very pleased with my machine. If that changes one day I won’t have so much in this machine, that it would hurt me whether I kept it or sold it to get a bigger one.

But, what works for me obiviously would not for A1Jim, knotscott, Scott, and many others on here that are very experienced craftsman and tackle much larger projects than myself at this point. For them they have to have a bigger more accurate saw for sheet goods, thicker hardwoods, etc. So they have matched their machines to their needs.

I agree with Knottscott that the Grizzly 1023 is a very reasonably priced saw and 220v is not that big of a deal to get put in if you envision needing a more substantial unit than the smaller 1 1/2 hp hybrids like I have.

Good luck on your choice, and let us know what you get!!

Ryno

Well Well, congrats on your new 22124 TS, I also have one of those and I am extremely happy with it, I fine tuned the disk saw to miter slot and fence to miter with a dial indicator and I love this saw.
It cuts sooo smooth.
I am playing with a Freud dado set, made myself a stop fence add-on and a sacrificial fence for the dado.

Hope you enjoy your new saw as am enjoying mine, have fun and be safe.

Congrats Ryno – I was a happy owner of a 22124 for 3-1/2 years before a screaming deal on a Shop Fox cabinet saw caught my attention. The 22124 was an upgrade from a nicely tricked out GI contractor saw. With good alignment, and good blade choice there was nothing I couldn’t cut with relative ease on either saw, but the 22124 has a bunch more mass and is easier to align, plus the hybrid format has several advantages. BTW, I slid the front rail tube to the right by 10” (one bolt hole) to up the right side rip capacity to 40”, then added a router table on the end. Enjoy!

Ryno, how is the fence on your Craftsman?

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

TopamaxSurvivor, I have to tell you that compared to what I was using (see my review), there’s no comparison. The fence is a 30” right rip commercial Biesemeyer fence, and it is an absolute joy to work with. No more measuring the distance between the fence and each end of the blade for EVERY SINGLE CUT… no more measuring between repeat cuts… (my Jet, while a great contractor saw, is just not set up for repeatable operations). I still get a smile on my face each time I make a cut, and I have no regrets whatsoever about the purchase. While the saw itself is absolutely top-notch, for me the rip fence is probably the component that can most affect usability and enjoyment of the saw, and I’m glad I went ahead with the Craftsman.

-- Ryno

I just googled your saw. Looks like it would do about anything most people would ever want! How accurately can you set the miter gauge? Is it any where near the popular after market one?

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

Topamax, I also have a 22124 TS and first I tested the stock miter saw using a good accurate starrett Combination Square, made a 90deg cut and measured both the leading and trailing edge of the stock and they were both in the money, then I made a 45 cut and checked and it was also spot on. Reset the miter to 90 made another cut, recheck and happy as camper spot on.
I tell you I love this saw.
And the Biesemeyer fence is a beauty as Ryno said no more check and re-check and then have a bad cut. I set the fence to the required width, make a cut, measure and GRIN (my facial expression) I ain’t kidding.
Before I had a Ryoby toy hehe

My old Craftsman doesn’t really get enough use to warrant changing it, but I’m about to get a good miter gauge from probably Incra. I’m wondering if I should save the $$ and just get another Craftsman??? For the amount of riping I do, I don’t really mind checking the fence at both ends. When I do, I don’t get any bad cuts. Sure wound be nice to not have to double check everytime. If I up grade the fence and the miter gauge, I’ll be at the price of the saw!!

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.