Table Saw Throat

Yup, we talked about this not to long ago. I use epoxy to make my little feet to hold it flush. Same way you bed a rifle barrel and action. Use paste wax and wax the metal around where the throat sits real well or you will epoxy the plate in permanently :-)) Mix up a little epoxy, put it on the plate and set it flush. Come back in an hour or two or the next day and do another. Run your saw blade up and you’re set. Not messing with little feet or adjusting.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0

I did a process similar to Topa’s except used Hot Melt Glue. It sticks to the wood but not the little metal “rests” in the throat area. I sets up quicker than epoxy.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

i buy good 1/8” blades and keep them sharp !
also change them for the cut required .
i can use the 1/8 ” in my calculations ,
and the stiffer blade doesnt whip as much .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

I agree with patron. I think a lot of tear-out problems relate to a dull blade. I have never used zero clearance throat plates. I use the metal Powermatic plates. I always use sharp blades and have never had a problem. I do use a thin kerf blade most of the time. I always use the blade stabilizer as well.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

What would you do with a dado set?
Larry

I have a steel dado insert. It of course, has a fixed opening that I use for all combinations of width, but the dado blades (Forrest) that I have I keep razor sharp and it works fine.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

Do you sharpen them your self, and if not how much does it cost to resharpen.

No, I dont. I have mostly Forrest blades so I send them back to them for sharpening. It runs about $30 for a 10” 80T blade and about $60 for the dado.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

Sharp blades are probably the best way to make a clean cut, but if you are like me and don’t have your blades sharpened often or don’t have more than one, then a zero clearance throat plate might be just the thing. Bob’s idea with the epoxy works well. Another way to do it is to drill holes in the 4 corners of your throat plate and cut some threads in them for set screws. This way you can make minute adjustments from the top with an allen wrench. I guess there must be a million ways to do this.

-- Mike, American in Norway

Zero clearance is good, sharp blades are great, both are a combo hard to beat.
Some woods will tear out regardless. Poplar is one of ‘em. Using some paint grade poplar on a trim job, and have a newly sharpened 80 tooth blade on the MS. Still get some fuzz on the back side of the cut.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

when crosscutting i put some masking tape over the cut line, seems to help out quite a bit

-- James, Bluffton, IN