Router top construction

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Forum topic by scribble posted 03-16-2015 01:09 PM 866 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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175 posts in 2195 days

03-16-2015 01:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router question

I going to be building my new router bench and table this week. I watched norms video and he used 3/4 and 1/2” MDF and it looks like he just glued and screwed the 2 pieces together. I am wondering if just using the screws to clamp it together for gluing is going to be sufficient. I don’t have a huge selection of clamps like a allot of you do so looking for alternatives.

Thank You

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

4 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile


4720 posts in 2346 days

#1 posted 03-16-2015 01:13 PM

Screws should be sufficient to hold while the glue dries. If you are worried about it throw a heavy weight on it as well. Make sure it is setting on a flat surface before adding the weight.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 1171 days

#2 posted 03-16-2015 01:20 PM

The question is how heavy is the router (and lift?)? My first router table was a piece of 3/4” MDF with the PC 690 router base screwed to the bottom (no lift) and it started to sag after a couple of years. So the replacement top is 3 pieces of 3/4” MDF glued and screwed together with white laminate on both the top and bottom. Now even with a router lift there is no sag.

Since you want the two pieces to be tight together make sure the hole in the top piece has a pilot hole where the screw will slip through without the threads engaging. I would also drill a pilot hole in the bottom piece. Make sure that you locate screws away from where you plan to put any kind of t-track or miter slot. You don’t want to accidently hit a screw when routing the groove.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View helluvawreck's profile


31030 posts in 2861 days

#3 posted 03-16-2015 01:26 PM

I have used plywood and fiberboard to make laminated tops for work tables and I use glue and the screws act as clamps for the glue. I first look at each piece and see if there is any warp. If there is I turn the two tops face to face in a manner that will tend to flatten the finished top. I also make one top bigger than the other by 1/8 ” all the way around. This way I can use the smaller top as a jig to rout the other top’s edge even with the smaller top after the glue has cured. You need to position the screws strategically so that you will not hit the screws with other machining operation that you will need to perform. You may want to cut the one top for the router opening before gluing and then you can use that cut out as another jig to cut the other top flush with it. The point is to think ahead and figure a way to end up with what ever kind of top you need and do a little design work before you cut either top and glue them together.

This may not be the best method but it works for me. You can also laminate HPL and backer sheet to both sides if you want a nice surface. When it comes to shop furniture I don’t get too carried away with looks and other such things. I’m mostly concerned with utility so I build my shop furniture as quickly as I can. It’s not junk and neither is it fancy, it but does serve the purpose well.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View scribble's profile


175 posts in 2195 days

#4 posted 03-16-2015 01:45 PM

I appreciate everyone’s response so quickly on this project. I am going to continue on through with my project with 1/2, and 3/4 mdf glued and screwed. I am going to be using a rockler router plate with a Dewalt router and no lift currently. I am looking into buiilding a lift I saw on Ramseys site i believe.

I am going to stop at the Borg for laminate tonight as well.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

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