Resawing with the bandsaw issues

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Forum topic by daddywoofdawg posted 03-14-2015 05:09 PM 864 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1006 posts in 997 days

03-14-2015 05:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw question

I have a 10” craftsman bandsaw I know it’s not the best, but it’s better than some,I have followed the you tube (forget his name) bandsaw clinic,and double checked with a couple other posters,and believe my saw is tuned up right;Now here is the problem, when I’m making band saw boxes, I’m cutting a 3.5×3.5” oak block it cuts power wise fine but I’ll get about 2” into the cut and the blade starts starts to wander all over and I can’t keep a straight line.Is it the wood I’m cutting is to much for the blade,the blade it’s the stock 3/8” one it came with (ya waiting on a wood-mizer or timber),or do I have my set-up wrong(need more blade tension, bearings set different etc)?

11 replies so far

View jmartel's profile


6474 posts in 1572 days

#1 posted 03-14-2015 05:20 PM

Dull blade or incorrect tension. Buy a new good quality blade for it and try it out. Most stock blades are pretty awful.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View lndfilwiz's profile


88 posts in 1023 days

#2 posted 03-14-2015 05:25 PM

I have a craftsman 12” and found that I had to go with a 3 tpi blade for resaw. I also found that zi went to a ½” wide blade it would stay into the cut longer. The stock blade overheats and loosen up.

-- Smile, it makes people wander what you are up to.

View jsuede's profile


69 posts in 646 days

#3 posted 03-14-2015 05:34 PM

Jmartel is prolly right on the button. I personally struggled with feed rate when I first started resawing on my 15” grizzly with the stock blade, seemed to hawg through with power to spare, but would begin to wander quickly. When I slowed to a snails pace it calmed down considerably. Widest, sharpest, lowest TPI blade solved any issues I had permanently.

View ElChe's profile


630 posts in 759 days

#4 posted 03-14-2015 05:37 PM

+1 on blade being dull. Or not the correct teeth per inch. Stock blades tend to be poor quality and more general purpose higher tpi for contour type cuts.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View daddywoofdawg's profile


1006 posts in 997 days

#5 posted 03-14-2015 06:06 PM

ok so I need a new blade, I think I can go to 1/2”, so I’ll open a can of worms, wood-mizer or timber or olsen? budget is a issue and I don’t do production work.

View jmartel's profile


6474 posts in 1572 days

#6 posted 03-14-2015 06:09 PM

On a 10” saw you may or may not be able to do 1/2” blades. I’d double check that first. And not necessarily what the manufacturer recommends. According to Grizzly, my 14” saw can handle 3/4” blades, but in reality that doesn’t work.

So maybe buy a 3/8” blade with as low of a tooth count as you can.

I didn’t like my Olsen as much as my Woodslicer that I have on now.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View Jim Finn's profile (online now)

Jim Finn

2390 posts in 2344 days

#7 posted 03-14-2015 10:27 PM

get a Supercut carbide blade, 1/2” Inexpensive and very sharp and stay that way a long time.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 599 days

#8 posted 03-14-2015 10:31 PM

Another worm for the “can” would be the timber wolf line of blades. I have always had good luck with them.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View SuperCubber's profile


834 posts in 1707 days

#9 posted 03-15-2015 03:26 AM

I have that saw, and you can definitely resaw on it. I tried the same thing you are trying when I first got it.

I will gladly swear by TimberWolf. I bought a 1/2” and a 1/4” to make an oak bandsaw box. Sliced through it like butter. Specifically, I bought a Timber Wolf 1/4” x 6PC and a Timber Wolf 1/2” x 3PC. I even did some resawing with the 1/2” and it exceeded my expectations. Easy to get a straight line and very little cleanup required. Total price (for both), including tax and shipping was $39.63.

Hope that helps!

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View rwe2156's profile


2122 posts in 903 days

#10 posted 03-15-2015 01:35 PM

You’ve either got the wrong blade for resawing or its not tensioned enough.

I’ve done my share of resawing and here’s what I’ve found:

1. The right blade. No more than 4 TPI staggered hook pattern. Get a 1/2” resaw blade from Highland Hardware. I think its called a woodmizer. If you don’t have the right blade the sawdust builds up and ruins the cut. I have an 18” bandsaw that will take up to 1 1/4” blades, but I’ve found a 1/2” resaw blade is quite sweet.

2. Tension. Don’t go by gauge on saw. Put blade guide all the way up and tension until less than 1/8” deflection sideways.

3. The type of wood and feed rate also are factors, although minor in a properly set up machine.

IMHO resawing on a 10” machine will be a challenge. If you’re resawing stock less than 4” I would consider using a table saw.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View sawdust703's profile


270 posts in 842 days

#11 posted 03-16-2015 12:27 AM

My suggestion as well, 2156. I’ve made numerous attempts to re saw on my 10” band saw, & regardless of who’s utube video I watch, or what method I’ve used to set it up, its by far faster, easier, & more efficient for me to get the job done on my ts. Now, granted, my ts is just an 8” post Civil War Craftsman. But, it does all I expect of it, & then some, but I respect its limitations. Without guards & all that fancy dust removal junk on it. And, I might add, I still have all my fingers. I cut my stock to the width & thickness I need on the ts, as long as its w/in its limitations. Otherwise, I just have to make adjustments as needed. Enjoy the day.

-- Sawdust703

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