Forum topic by BigAxe | posted 03-13-2015 03:14 PM | 1146 views | 0 times favorited | 13 replies | ![]() |
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03-13-2015 03:14 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: question I have been using hand tools for about two years now. I have 4 planes. |
13 replies so far
#1 posted 03-13-2015 03:20 PM |
Just buy a new chip breaker if it needs it. If it worked well before, it should work fine after. -- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn. |
#2 posted 03-13-2015 03:50 PM |
Being that you are used to this planeand have become friends with it, an aftermarket chipbreaker would be a good present in my opinion. Buying new is good and all, but takes a while to build a good friendship. -- "....put that handsaw to work and make it earn its keep. - summerfi" <==< JuStiN >==>=-> |
#3 posted 03-13-2015 04:20 PM |
Check Ebay and buy a newer chip breaker. You’ll keep an old friend and save a few bucks for you next plane. |
#4 posted 03-13-2015 04:39 PM |
New, old, rework the old chip breaker if possible. All good options. -- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior. |
#5 posted 03-13-2015 04:48 PM |
I’m assuming the chip breaker is beyond repair? As is, a little time on the stones or grinder to refine the shape and remove the chips? -- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive -- |
#6 posted 03-13-2015 05:12 PM |
The edge being ragged doesn’t seem to be a deal breaker. You can grind or sand that out with coarse grit sandpaper. Then if you had to take away too much material for the breaker to seat against the iron then you can just gently bend the breaker to give it a little more tension. Just make sure to shape the chip breaker so it’s leading edge meets as perfectly flush with the iron as possible. I can’t find the link that explains it, but basically if you hold the chip breaker slightly below level as you sand it, you will put a reverse bevel on the underside so just the front edge will meet with the iron. About the only way I can think a chip breaker wouldn’t be savable is if there wasn’t enough metal left at the leading edge so you’d have to bend it too much. |
#7 posted 03-13-2015 05:35 PM |
Or both. I find it handy to have a spare blade and chip breaker ready to go. I have several Hock blades and I like them a lot. Hock and several other makers produce quality blade and chip breaker combinations that are sweet (except the price). All of my chip breakers are vintage. |
#8 posted 03-13-2015 06:09 PM |
I am finishing up getting my set of Bailey planes working. |
#9 posted 03-13-2015 10:06 PM |
I’ve always been unpleasantly surprised at how much refurbishing planes really costs if you put a high quality plade into it. If you include a chip breaker, it’s quite a bit. You can easily spend $100 on a crappy old plane and a good blade. Then you have to work to get it set up right and everything. It is still cheaper than a Lie Nielsen, but the honest truth is that it will never work as well. It will work pretty well and do 95% of what a lie nielsen will do, but it won’t ever match it. So: Spend $100 and get a very good plane, but put half a day of work into it I see arguments for both. Just don’t go expecting refurbishing to be dirt cheap. It isn’t -- The Wood Is Your Oyster |
#10 posted 03-13-2015 11:03 PM |
It is a shame to waste a plane. Treat yourself to a Rob Cosman combo, fettle up your plane and enjoy. If I was to start again, without any plane, I would buy a Quangsheng, Wood River in the U.S.A. |
#11 posted 03-15-2015 11:50 PM |
Not see the chip breaker or the rest of the plane, its hard to say, but I’ve only found a few chip breakers that couldn’t be fixed. Although, if your going to replace anything in a plane, the chip breaker would get the most performance improvements. -- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future. |
#12 posted 03-16-2015 11:35 AM |
Oh good gosh, we should start a club LOL!!! I’ve been down the overpriced EBay/missing parts/bad blades/warped soles road too many times. One time I spend 3 hours trying to flatten the sole on a #7 and finally gave up because I could never get the mouth area flat. The ONLY decent (by my stds) refurbed plane I have (the rest have gone bye bye) is a Stanley Bailey #4 with a Veritas cap iron/blade. Between the plane & shipping & blade I have over $100 invested just like you said. I could have bought a NEW Wood River #4 for just a little more and had a better plane. I keep telling guys until you’ve put a Lie Nielsen plane in your hands, you won’t know what I’m talking about, but most of the time I get accused of being a snob….....I never thought there was that much diff until I finally broke down and bought a good, new plane. Plus one thing I’ve learned is get the best tool you or don’t buy one just save up. The “best tool” philosophy has these aspects: 1) You can grow into your tools rather than have your tools limit you. -- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!! |
#13 posted 03-16-2015 12:24 PM |
Expensive aftermarket blades and chipbreakers are not needed. If the breaker is done, buy several new blade/breaker sets from Stanley – The 2” for the #5 were $3.50 last I checked. Having 1/2 dozen blade/chipbreakers sharpened up will plane much more wood than any aftermarket blade. I’ve refurbed over a dozen ebay Stanley bench planes, 4, 4-1/2, 5, 5-1/2, 7 – there were 2 that were lost cause because the mouth was cracked (I was able to get some of my $ back), Some required more work than others, but all are capable of fine smoother performance. Not as good as my BU Veritas planes, but good enough. The only negative being the depth adjustment backlash. Here’s my refurb method http://lumberjocks.com/OSU55/blog/39391. All of the BD bench planes are limited by the 45° cut angle. While sharp blades, properly dressed breakers, and tight mouths help, these planes will struggle with tear out on reversing grain. A higher cut angle is the solution. Put your $ into addressing this (BU or scraping planes) vs a far more expensive version that has the same limitations. BU planes, with multiple blades, can have any cut angle for end grain to smoothing burl. |
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