LumberJocks

Buying Lumber

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Yettiman posted 06-09-2009 08:39 PM 1062 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Yettiman's profile

Yettiman

163 posts in 3205 days


06-09-2009 08:39 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resource question cherry milling

Hi,

I am looking to buy some lumber in the rough, how much will I loose when I plane down the boards please?

I mean how thick will the final board be from a 1” and a 1.5” board?

Many Many thanks

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot


7 replies so far

View Julian's profile

Julian

880 posts in 2993 days


#1 posted 06-09-2009 08:44 PM

Typically you will loose around 1/8”-1/4” after jointing/planing. An 8/4 (2” thick) board will yield around 1 3/4”, while 4/4 (1” thick) generally yields 3/4”-7/8”.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3116 days


#2 posted 06-09-2009 08:48 PM

it really depends on how twisted the rough board is, and it’s irregularity on the surfaces… if it’s fairly straight, and ‘normal’ expect to take off ~1/4”

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

2103 posts in 3196 days


#3 posted 06-09-2009 09:07 PM

also, shorter boards are less impacted by small defects. a warp or cup in a board that is many feet long might be impossible to straighten. One trick is to cut most of your boards to rough lenght before jointing/planing if your goal is to keep lumber as thick as possible.

View sikrap's profile

sikrap

1121 posts in 2826 days


#4 posted 06-09-2009 09:19 PM

Depending on your planer, I would also cut the boards 4-6 inches longer than what will be needed to allow for snipe. Of course, if you don’t have a snipe issue, there is no need. Good Luck!!

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View closetguy's profile

closetguy

744 posts in 3360 days


#5 posted 06-10-2009 02:55 AM

When you choose your boards, look for the ones with the least cupping. The greater the cup (side to side bow), the more you will have to plane to get it flat. The best case scenario is 1/8” reduction after planing both sides. I’ve had some that it took 1/4” or more to get it flat. My lumber supplier brings rough boards out on a pallet and I dig through all of the boards until I find the best ones for my application.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

View pommy's profile

pommy

1697 posts in 3159 days


#6 posted 08-11-2009 12:02 AM

Hi Yettiman

Where do you bye your lumber from if from a sawmill like me most of the furniture timber is usually a very good grade so you shouldn’t lose that much if you bye what i call proper rough timber then you should look to lose about 10 to 15mm but it really does depend on the grade your bying …........

ANDY

-- cut it saw it scrap it SKPE: ANDREW.CARTER69

View Yettiman's profile

Yettiman

163 posts in 3205 days


#7 posted 08-12-2009 01:20 AM

Many thanks guys – much appreciated

I’ll let you know how it turns out

1st major project :)

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com