Buying Lumber

Typically you will loose around 1/8”-1/4” after jointing/planing. An 8/4 (2” thick) board will yield around 1 3/4”, while 4/4 (1” thick) generally yields 3/4”-7/8”.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

it really depends on how twisted the rough board is, and it’s irregularity on the surfaces… if it’s fairly straight, and ‘normal’ expect to take off ~1/4”

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

also, shorter boards are less impacted by small defects. a warp or cup in a board that is many feet long might be impossible to straighten. One trick is to cut most of your boards to rough lenght before jointing/planing if your goal is to keep lumber as thick as possible.

Depending on your planer, I would also cut the boards 4-6 inches longer than what will be needed to allow for snipe. Of course, if you don’t have a snipe issue, there is no need. Good Luck!!

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

When you choose your boards, look for the ones with the least cupping. The greater the cup (side to side bow), the more you will have to plane to get it flat. The best case scenario is 1/8” reduction after planing both sides. I’ve had some that it took 1/4” or more to get it flat. My lumber supplier brings rough boards out on a pallet and I dig through all of the boards until I find the best ones for my application.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

Hi Yettiman

Where do you bye your lumber from if from a sawmill like me most of the furniture timber is usually a very good grade so you shouldn’t lose that much if you bye what i call proper rough timber then you should look to lose about 10 to 15mm but it really does depend on the grade your bying …........

ANDY

-- cut it saw it scrap it

Many thanks guys – much appreciated

I’ll let you know how it turns out

1st major project :)

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot