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Craftsman 10" 3HP Table Saw - Model 113-298761 - Is it a good buy?

117K views 64 replies 18 participants last post by  hcbph_1 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello!

I hadn't yet purchased a table saw and I tend to be on Amazon so I ordered a "DWE7491RS 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw". [ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2CGXGG ] I haven't even actually gotten it out of the box yet as I'm waiting on my electrician to run the wiring I need in my shop.

This is my first table saw - I've always used a circular saw with less than satisfactory results as I've always just done it by hand [never anything important].

I have come across a used Craftsman 10" 3HP Table saw that is belt driven. It has the miter gauge [I have an incra though], the rip fence, and cast iron table extensions as well as the manual and rolling stand. They want just over $200 for it but I do not know enough about table saws to know if it's a good saw or not.

What I really want is something to perform precision cuts on various hardwoods without worrying about it not being able to keep up or burning the wood. My space is fairly limited so it being on wheels would be a huge benefit as most I've seen used do not have mobile bases [although that's 'fixable'].

I would love to have a nice big 3hp+ cabinet saw but I just don't have the space for it.

It looks to be in good shape.

Here are some images:




 
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#2 ·
That's a good saw that a lot of people use. That one looks clean. A friend of mine bought one in a little worse shape for $75 a few months ago. I would offer around $125 and see what happens. It says 3 hp, but the motor is probably 1 1/2 or less. It would be really good with a fence upgrade.
 
#3 ·
Ah interesting. I was trying to find out what year it was manufactured and if it's a decent deal for the price.

I don't mind holding onto the Dewalt as it should meet my needs for the foreseeable future but if I can find something used for cheaper that will do the job well or better before I unbox the Dewalt I'll jump on it.
 
#4 ·
Hi Mike,

I've had 4 of these saws over the years, new and used, and all of them cut wood just fine. Where the saw falls short is the fence. It will work but not as handily or accurately as an after market fence.

Compared to the DeWalt you referenced, it will be quieter and have a larger table. It may also allow use of a wider dado stack than the DeWalt.

IMO, $200 is too much. The last one I bought I paid $150.
 
#5 ·
For the time being I plan on using my router table for any dado work so that's not a major concern for me right now especially since I also do not have any dado blades and the wife isn't going to 'approve' any more tools that are 'not strictly necessary for the task at hand' this month - haha.

I guess I need to come up with a short list of used saws to keep my eyes out for. Ideally something that I repair rather than replace down the road.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Pay no attention to what it says on the front, it is NOT a 3hp saw! It's maybe a 1 - 1.5Hp and the 3HP is considered "max developed" which is completely meaningless. I see those saws on CL frequently in the $50-$150 range. It is a step up from that Dewalt though. That Dewalt has one of those universal screamer motors with a plastic housing. It will warp and deform with any kind of continued use, and houses the rear motor bearing… so when that happens, your motor is toast and cannot really be fixed, just replaced. So pretty much any saw with a real belt driven induction motor is a step up IMHO.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#7 ·
I spent about $500 on the DeWalt. I am open to other options in the $200-800 range as I can still return the Dewalt at this point if I wanted as it's unopened.

I'm not in a hurry and I do have access to a belt driven table saw at my father-in-laws but it's not easy to move and I don't cherish the idea of taking my wood there to cut and bring back.

I'm open to used tools in good shape and/or that are easy to get back into shape/work on and I'm not against new stuff either so long as it's built to last.

All of the reviews of the Dewalt I read have been positive - no mentions of longevity issues but then again nobody I've talked to described its motor in that fashion either.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
It's in nice shape, has the webbed cast iron fence, and the twin capacitor motor. The other guys are correct….the fence is weak, and the motor plate will say 1.5hp which is the true continuous duty hp rating. Sears and Emerson parted ways in 1997, so it was made before that….likely in the mid 80s. The blade guard assembly is missing, and that doesn't look like the original miter gauge. $200 isn't terrible, but I'd try to do a tad better if possible….mention the blade guard as a bartering point….it'll cost ~ $35-$75 to replace it.

There sure is a lot more operating room in front of the blade on the Cman. It's also a lot quieter, more stable, should have more torque, and is easier to upgrade down the road. You can't really add too much to the DW.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
The only mention I can find on the DeWalt is that it's a 15 Amp motor - no mention of HP on the site/description that I can find.

The guy selling the Craftsman responded and I can come look at it in person whenever I want.

I'm trying to figure out what this saw is capable of in terms of power. I'm thinking 1.5HP would probably struggle with a wider dado set in a harder wood no? I plan to use my router but it is a good basis for comparison of power I think no?

A missing blade-guard is a big one for me just from the standpoint that I'm new to all of this and I want to have the safety systems in place until there is need to remove them for a task. It may be more cumbersome but I'm not running a professional shop here :).
 
#10 ·
I'd go for the craftsman. If you paid $500 for the Dewalt, you can get the craftsman, a new fence system and maybe accessories for the same money and have a heck of a lot more capabilities. I have a newer grizzly with 1.5 hp. It has never struggled with my dado stack. I wouldn't worry about that.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
That is what I was thinking - even at $200 it's still substantially cheaper than the DeWalt was leaving me some $$$ to improve it's deficiencies.

I am open to suggestions on an upgraded fence as well as well as advice on any other upgrades that could be done/upgraded accessories. I do have an Incra Miter 1000HD and planned on building a crosscut and mitering sled as well.

I am going to look at the saw tomorrow in person at around noon and will have the truck and a friend with me so I can get it home tomorrow if all goes well [assuming it's not raining]. It is supposed to rain all day so more than likely I won't be able to get it home for a few days.

I am also open to advice as to what I should look at / check for on a used table saw. Being that I'm not real familiar with them I wouldn't know what to look for as far as the unit being in good shape beyond it simply appearing to be in good shape.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
The only mention I can find on the DeWalt is that it s a 15 Amp motor - no mention of HP on the site/description that I can find.

The guy selling the Craftsman responded and I can come look at it in person whenever I want.

I m trying to figure out what this saw is capable of in terms of power. I m thinking 1.5HP would probably struggle with a wider dado set in a harder wood no?

- MikeDVB
The Cman should spin a decent stacked dado set fine. I'll reiterate that the Cman will have more torque. HP specs don't tell the whole story. The DW relies on RPM for it's cutting power, so will likely bog more easily. The perception of power is very dependent on setup and blade selection, but the induction motor should have the upper hand for this type of application.

If you're new to this, that extra space in front of the blade can be a Godsend for getting the wood settled before starting the cut….it's the type of thing that most people wouldn't anticipate, until being exposed to the extra landing space. Same is true of mass…a lightweight saw is more likely to move when pushed on… and that can be scary. I will say that the fence on the DW is probably better, but the Cman fence can be upgraded….much harder to do with a portable saw. Try fixing a saw with a universal motor….it's often not cost effective. In almost all cases, unless you need the portability of a portable saw, a full size saw with belt drive induction motor has the lion's share of advantages. The Cman is essentially the same base saw as the earlier Ridgid contractor saws, but with an older fence.

Some more reading to help you understand the differences in the saws:
The ABCs of Table Saws
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
Buying a fence new is not a problem - so long as it fits the table and works well. I think the two most important parts for me are:
1. That it be straight and parallel to the blade.
2. That it be easily adjusted and easily calibrated [if necessary].

Being that I'm saving over $300 by my math going with the CMan even if I give them asking price - that leaves me room for a great fence/other upgrades. I can exceed the $300 although I wouldn't want/be able to do it this month.

That said - I could make do with a crappy fence for a few weeks if I had to.
 
#16 ·
I planned on reading the seller in person and seeing what I felt I could offer that they would accept. I'm already going to make a point of there not being a blade guard. I don't know how much of an argument I could make about the fence - I could say the fence it comes with is crappy and I'd be replacing it but that's more of my problem than theirs.
 
#21 ·
Older saws do not have a riving knife.
However, a splitter is part of the blade guard assembly.
There are aftermarket/retrofit riving knives for some saws, but not C'man contractor saws.
 
#23 ·
I made zero clearance insert with glued in splitter in it similar to the Micro Jig splitter. The blade guard splitter is very thin although it does have anti-kickback pawls. Keeping it lined up was always a hassle so I removed and did the ZCI with "integrated" splitter. I'll probably pick up a MJ Splitter for next ZCI.
 
#24 ·
"MJ Splitter"? I'm not sure what that means.

I'm not really any good at metal fabrication so building my own knife is possible but I dont know where I would start.

I've been looking and the SawStop tables look nice but are very expensive. I guess less costly than a missing finger though…

Not really sure who else to look at.
 
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