|Forum topic by WiddershinsJoinery||posted 03-12-2015 03:23 PM||1145 views||0 times favorited||15 replies|
03-12-2015 03:23 PM
Typically, I pride myself on being able to read scientific papers or industrial documentation to find the answers I require, but I’m having a little bit of trouble. Accuracy trumps pride, so here we go.
My wife and I bought a house last year, in Newfoundland, Canada. It was regularly -40 at night for the past couple of months, and having 3’ of snow drift in our driveway in a few hours is not irregular. Yes, yes, hell froze over and it’s where I live. Haha. We are prone to windstorms ranging from 100-120mph (I am using Imperial measurements because I assume most members of this forum are either American or Canadians who are bilingual :P).
The garage that came with the house is 32’ by 20’ (11’ ceilings), with TWO wings: one is 8’x16’ and the other is 10’x16’. The smaller wing I’m converting into lumber storage, and the larger one I’m using to store firewood. I am currently doing a household renovation to get rid of our aging oil/wood water boiler, and putting that out in the garage The boiler is 80,000 BTU, if I am not mistaken, a real monster. At present, the garage is uninsulated, and really nothing more than a rain shelter with a garage door.
My plan for this spring is to rip out the remnants of fiberglass batt insulation from the walls, and after weather-proofing AROUND all the studs, I’ll stick fresh batts in there, and resheath the walls with OSB. Will line the floor with Tyvek and cover that with some heavy plywood. (there is no ceiling, at present, just trusses) I’ll put TWO layers of fiberglass batt up in the ceiling, resheath that, and later install acoustical dampening pillows (heavy canvas tarps with more batts inside of them to soak up echo).
I intend to pull out the windows and install new lighting systems, replace all the wiring, get RID of the old hand-made garage door and board/insulate that over… but frame-out a future provision for a new, proper door. Also replacing the old, rusted-out exterior person doors…
So yeah, we’re talking $4000 – $5000 worth of work, but the place is unusable at present. It’s so cold the water in gasoline freezes out there.
The question I wanted to bring to you all is this… my lighting situation. Once the furnace goes in, the oil furnace will keep the temperature going to about 10C (50F) and I’ll use the woodstove for when I actually plan to go out there, anywhere from a few hours in a weekday evening to whole weekends at a time. That said, I want the place insulated better than my house. We all know what happens to fluorescent light tubes when they get cold… they flicker, hum, and linger… if they work at all. My plan was to use LED bulbs.
I replaced the 75W incandescent bulbs with 8W (“replaces” 40W) and they legitimately seem brighter to myself and my wife. They are white light, 5000K CRI95 and outshine 4000k 100W incandescents, we feel. So… I have somewhat of a science background, but the overlapping fields of omni-directional LED lights in an enclosed environment is a little too much computation for me to handle. This is why I bring the question to you…
Most measurements say that 750 LUX is ideal brightness for a workshop, such as woodworking, which equals about 70 foot candles or 45000 lumens of total light intensity. My shop has 11’ ceilings, not 8’, but I’m not sure how the inverse square law pertains to distances and overlapping light sources when the walls’ reflection can contribute as well… gah. Given that a 100W Incandescent bulb at 4000K emits about 1700lm, I would need about 25 of those. That’s just for ambient room-lighting, I’d also have dedicated task-lighting for my turning station, honing station, drill press, mitre saw, etc. All will have devoted workspace built into the walls with dedicated lamps… I just need to make sure that I don’t buy too few and regret the lack of ambient light, or buy too many and it cost me a fortune.
Looking for thoughts/feedback. Did I confuse/lose anyone? Haha. I have a GREAT deal of content studied on my shop reno, and would LOVE The chance to discuss it with anyone who is willing to hear. I may also have a lot of data rattling around in my head pertaining to the field… I’d love to help if anyone has a question they think I might be able to answer.
AUTHOR EDIT: I probably should have mentioned… The building is on railway ties and telephone poles as a foundation, and I am removing the windows entirely in order to ensure better light control for when I make my future youtube videos. I have a hellish-amount of space, so I have lots of room to play. I’ll probably use cone-shaped light-reflectors to focus the light downward, ceiling may or may not be painted white, but I know the canvas acoustical pillows will be white. I may or may not paint ALL The interior walls white, but I know that my walls will gradually become covered by workstation cupboards and cabinetry. I planned to have a 36” tall bench line the walls, a 18” or 24” space, followed by cupboards above (with lighting and power outlets below) to a max height of 8’. I will then have long lumber racks built on triangular cantilevers above the cupboards, for the remaining 3’. This configuration will help diffuse/disperse a GREAT deal of the sound, anyway, and the acoustical pillows on the ceiling will hopefully nullify the remainder. They will also act as extra insulation to keep my heat down. I will be using a hotwater radiation system, where radiators will be running, hopefully in parallel, rather than in series, along ALL COLD WALLS of the main 32’ by 20’ building, minus the front, where the garage door will eventually be. I will also have a devoted liquids/fluids cupboard, sealed and insulated, with an incandescent lightbulb on it’s own thermostat. It will keep the temperature within this cupboard to something closer to 18C (65F) and will, of course, not engage at all when the room is at that temperature or above. I would prefer the environment be around 21C (72F) at all times when I’m out there, which will be the purpose of the wood furnace component of the system. I will also use solar collectors to supply auxiliary heat to both and water, but that’s another story entirely.