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Forum topic by Bobthebuilder2 posted 03-10-2015 05:34 AM 1448 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bobthebuilder2

17 posts in 642 days


03-10-2015 05:34 AM

So, like my other thread, same question basically, and my last one, so don’t worry, i won’t be making anymore pesky questions for every tool in the shed lol.

So like routers, ive been doing lots of research on table saws. With the goal being, i want one thats going to last, and not cause me headaches that im not skilled enough to realize and avoid yet when picking one out. This would be home hobbiest so 120v 1 phase is ideal

So from what i gathered, the rigid from home depot is supposed to be good, and the craftsmans from sears is almost exactly the same but $100 more. Then there is grizzly they have 2 lower end models around $600-$700, the newest of which is supposedly a downgrade to the other, and that other supposedly has a bug or two, well all of these supposedly have a problem or two.

Then there is the delta from lowes for $600, but that has very questionable replacement parts aka, none that i know of, and may or may not ever get support from delta, out a year i think? and doesn’t even have basic assessorys for it yet. Two peice fence/rail which people say is bad, i guess bad for trying to get it aligned? but after that its ok?

Lastly, is used off craigslist, and it just so happens, there is someone on there unloading a bunch of old unisaws right now. Problem is, almost all of them are 220v, and most of those are 3phase. But its even more confusing because i can’t quiet find out, how good these models were, how much the cost knew, ect.

were all the older cabnet unisaws really expensive? or were a few kind of like the one from lowes for $600?

here’s a few model numbers im seeing on craigs 34-801, 34-450, 34-466, 34-806, 34-761, 34-540, 34-806f, 34-461

the fences on these are all very different, some have a micro adjust bar type rail, one has a besmeyer but its pretty expensive, some have sheetmetal looking bases, while others look really thick and heavy.

So im trying to find out are these old machines worth it, or would i jsut be better off getting something new? the 34-801 would mostly be plug n play, it can be rewired to 120v 1.5hp $400 but thats prob a tad bit high ive read some people snagging them for $200. but everything could be worn out, but then with a new one, some of those just arn’t right from the very beginning so…

the reviews on the new saws are scaring me, kind of like the routers. I realize some people make bad reviews just to complain, but i see lots of people saying the same things which makes me take it a bit more serious. for example, and im going off memory here but it seems like there’s alot of blade alignment issues, wobbles, and fence problems


20 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4247 posts in 1666 days


#1 posted 03-10-2015 05:39 AM

there is someone on there unloading a bunch of old unisaws right now.

WHERE?? Those things probably won’t last long, and I’d love to have another or two.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: A Unisaw is in a whole different league than ANYTHING you will find at the BORG.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Sanderguy777

158 posts in 669 days


#2 posted 03-10-2015 07:21 AM

I would look for one with the thickest table possible. I have an old no-name table saw that works fine. I would definitely look for a saw that has good reviews and has a good quality fence. The best saw that I know of would be a Delta or a SawStop. Of course, they do cost a ton, but it’s worth it as long as you really need the extra features and the quality.

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crank49

3981 posts in 2438 days


#3 posted 03-10-2015 08:30 AM

“So from what i gathered, the rigid from home depot is supposed to be good, and the craftsmans from sears is almost exactly the same but $100 more. Then there is grizzly they have 2 lower end models around $600-$700, the newest of which is supposedly a downgrade to the other, and that other supposedly has a bug or two, well all of these supposedly have a problem or two”

.So, you say after your research you conclude the Ridgid is supposed to be good, the Craftsman is the same and then you say a couple of low end Grizzly saws have some problems? Say what?

I’ve never seen a saw with as many bad reviews as the Ridgid 4512 and Craftsman 21833 saws. And I believe every one of them because I have one of the Craftsman saws, the 21833, and can absolutely confirm that my saw has major blade alignment issues, the problem is NOT correctable without buying a replacement set of guts for the main trunnion assembly, the manufacturer has never admitted there is any problem with these saws and offers NO support and won’t even acknowledge the replacement part exists or is any different from the original part.

Grizzly, from what I have read has reacted to the problem with this design and taken care of their customers and fixed the problem.

I’m naming my saw ”Hillary”, because WHAT, AT THIS POINT, DIFFERENCE DOES IT MAKE? Hell will freeze over before I waste another penny on a Ridgid or Craftsman saw.

To put a real cabinet saw like the Delta Unisaw in the same discussion as a bunch of little hybrid cheap end imitation saws is almost an insult. The old Unisaws, the old Powermatics, the old Jets were industrial grade heavy duty machines. The weight of these machines is 2 to 3 times greater than the hybrids of today. Unless they were in a manufacturing environment for the last 30 years and were never taken care of and maintained for those 30 odd years any of them could probably be refurbished with new bearings and lubricated and adjusted and be good as new; ready for another 30 years. These machines were designed and built to be long lasting and maintainable.

It’s a fact that everyone does not need or even want a big old heavy 800 lb hunk of cast iron, industrial machine sitting in their garage. But they are just an entirely different class of machine from the hybrids is the point I was trying to make. If you had one you would never need another saw for sure.

About the new light weight Delta hybrid saw at Lowes. I would rather have a light weight saw from a reputable company with a chance of maybe questionable support in the future than a light weight saw with a confirmed problem and from a company that I know will not support me.

And, about the two part fence. Why would you think it’s a problem on the light weight Delta and not a problem with the Ridgid/Craftsman. I personally like the fence on my Craftsman; it’s just the shifting alignment of the blade to the miter slot I hate.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7225 posts in 2843 days


#4 posted 03-10-2015 09:38 AM

It’s pretty easy to find a bad review about any tool. None are immune. Don’t read more into than it is, or you end up taking the exception as the rule, and eliminating what are likely very good tools for their intended purpose. True of routers or table saws, and other tools.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View devann's profile

devann

2202 posts in 2160 days


#5 posted 03-10-2015 10:03 AM

Ditto what crank49 said about old iron. You can find a used one that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. Patience and perseverance will pay off. For a shop saw, stay away from table saws that are the direct drive variety. This is where the blade is mounted directly to the motor. When the motor burns up the replacement cost for the motor is within a few dollars of what the saw cost new. Get a belt drive, preferably one with a link belt. If you don’t get a saw with a link belt plan on upgrading later. It’s worth it.

Girth is good too, nothing like trying to make a cut and having to chase your saw around at the same time. A good rip fence is necessary but can be purchased separate of the saw, so don’t get hung up there. Just make sure that the saw you purchase can be refitted with a better rip fence when the time comes.

There are some portable table saws that will get you by. Many of them are light weight and have rip fences that leave a bit to be desired and can’t be replaced. Lots of different ones I used in the past have rip fences that when you lock the fence in place, the end of the fence at the back of the table jumps ever so slightly out of square with the blade. Some of the better portable table saws that I’ve used are in the $500-$650 range. Still, I’m not impressed with the rip fences.

If you go with a portable table saw be sure to allow for purchasing some kind of an off feed support stands. You’ll even want to use some for your shop saw until you get an off feed support table built. Stay away from the cylinder roller types, they’re finicky to set to the proper height. Home Depot is the only place that I know that carries a convex top design. It flips up into place as the stock start move across it. They’re more forgiving than the cylinder roller designs making them safer to use. They cost more than the cylinder roller types but I think that you’ll agree that your fingers are worth the extra $10-$15. You’ll want to buy at least two of them if you rip eight foot material. The off feed supports also come in handy in many other tools ( miter saw, router table, drill press) and situations where a helping hand is needed.

You can also consider a track saw system. You’ll have to weigh the cost/space benefits.

I have two table saws that I use. The shop saw was made in 1963-64, it’s been round for a while. It’s a brand that you have probably never heard of but still works fine. I got it for around $300-$350. You can go to a blog I have and see pictures of the link belt, off feed table etc.
I also have a homemade portable table saw that I built around 15 years ago, that may give you some ideas but you need to have a table saw to build your own table saw. That’s probably a catch-22 situation for you.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

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Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 695 days


#6 posted 03-10-2015 11:11 AM

CRANK49! HERE HERE three cheers and a tiger for you! F**K RIDGID. They don’t deserve to be in business one minute longer. they sell CRAP!

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

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Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 695 days


#7 posted 03-10-2015 11:13 AM



It s pretty easy to find a bad review about any tool. None are immune. Don t read more into than it is, or you end up taking the exception as the rule, and eliminating what are likely very good tools for their intended purpose. True of routers or table saws, and other tools.

- knotscott


I know your exactly right. I’ts the 99% of the horrible RIDGID CRAP products that gives the remanning one percent a bad reputation.

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

296 posts in 744 days


#8 posted 03-10-2015 12:20 PM

For the life of me I don’t understand what’s the big deal about a two peice rail system. They cut a peice of angle half in two So it’s easier to ship in the box with the saw. If someone can’t line up two pieces of angle iron to meet end to end, they don’t have any business trying to run a table saw. They might get hurt. If it’s bugs anyone that much they can always take their welder and tack the two pieces together if they can get someone to hold the iron end to end.
But that’s just my opinion, maybe some people can’t do it.
Gerald

View Bobthebuilder2's profile

Bobthebuilder2

17 posts in 642 days


#9 posted 03-10-2015 04:10 PM

ok so i think im leaning towards an old delta if i can find the right one, or that newer delta at lowes.

Looks like the 120v delta i was eyeing magically got swiped from under me, not sure how since this guy knew i was looking for a 120v for weeks, he emails me, and i emailed him back within an hour. But anyways all that leaves now is 220v 1 and 3 phase models of unisaws

our garage doesn’t even have 220v hooked up to it, imagine that will cost alot to get hooked up, they will prob want a breaker box for just the garage as well :(

Then id need a phase converter, anyone got a good lead on one of those? i researched a little into those, the digital ones seemed the most ideal, inverters, but not sure how much hp i need, and the price goes up really quickly based on hp so id have to know the smallest that would work

then on the other hand, by time i do all that, id might have been better off just buying a new one

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 954 days


#10 posted 03-10-2015 04:22 PM

If you have the space for a cabinet saw, then go for it.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4247 posts in 1666 days


#11 posted 03-10-2015 04:32 PM

Looks like the 120v delta i was eyeing magically got swiped from under me, not sure how…

I do. Sellers aren’t going to wait around for you to make up your mind. Good deals rarely last more than an hour or even less. Retail stores, however, will patiently wait for you to come to a decision and gladly take your money when you do.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Bobthebuilder2's profile

Bobthebuilder2

17 posts in 642 days


#12 posted 03-10-2015 04:44 PM

no i told him i wanted it, i just made an offer asked him if he would move on his price some, even gave him an idea where i lived to let him know i was serious because i would have either needed it delievered or one of his guys to help get it off my truck

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MrUnix

4247 posts in 1666 days


#13 posted 03-10-2015 04:51 PM

i just made an offer asked him if he would move on his price some

And in the mean time, someone said they wanted it at his price and asked when they could come give him the cash and pick it up. Welcome to the wonderful world of buying used machinery.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Asking for delivery or having ‘one of his guys’ tag along to help unload isn’t going to help much either,

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Bobthebuilder2

17 posts in 642 days


#14 posted 03-10-2015 04:58 PM

he has like 8 unisaws for sale, all on shipping pallets, runs a big mill shop or something, seemed fairly reasonable to ask for a little help moving a “800lb” item

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Bobthebuilder2

17 posts in 642 days


#15 posted 03-10-2015 05:01 PM

wasn’t like i asked him to deliever it to my basement and hook it up, all i wanted was to get it on the ground curb side, i have a dolly to get it to my garage by myself

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