Question about TS Adjustment

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Forum topic by Tim Marko posted 06-05-2009 09:18 PM 1096 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tim Marko

41 posts in 3811 days

06-05-2009 09:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

I just finished tuning up my table saw and I’ve found a problem that I can’t figure out and was hoping someone hear had an answer.

The board I started with was jointed on one edge so i had a true starting point. I set the fence at 1.75”.

The leading end of the board was at 1.75” confirmed with a caliper. The tail end was 1.75”. The middle of the board was 1/64 wider. My first instinct was operater error so I rechecked three more times. Each time the results were the same. The board was about 16” long.

The answer may be obvious, but I can’t seem to see what could be causing this.

Any ideas?

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!

11 replies so far

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18285 posts in 3698 days

#1 posted 06-05-2009 09:24 PM

Is your fence true and aligned it’s full length?

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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Tim Marko

41 posts in 3811 days

#2 posted 06-05-2009 09:40 PM


I just checked to be sure and yes it is true and the alignment was just done. I also checked to see if I’m getting any deflection, and don’t see or measure any.

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!

View knotscott's profile


8055 posts in 3398 days

#3 posted 06-05-2009 09:51 PM

It’s possible to get some deviation even with a jointer. Did you check the reference edge for flatness before cutting?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View RedShirt013's profile


219 posts in 3684 days

#4 posted 06-05-2009 10:11 PM

Try using a full kerf blade if you’re not already, or use some stiffeners to flank the blade

-- Ed

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Tim Marko

41 posts in 3811 days

#5 posted 06-05-2009 10:25 PM

scott, I did check the reference edge and it was true.

red, I do use a stiffener, but it is on a thin kerf freud blade if that helps.

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!

View treeman's profile


208 posts in 3472 days

#6 posted 06-05-2009 10:27 PM

Is it possible that you are over feeding and deflecting the blade?

Try a cut at a more moderate speed and see if that helps.

View woodman71's profile


162 posts in 3347 days

#7 posted 06-06-2009 01:37 AM

Hello Tim If I can give my two cents I will say check to see if your blade is square to the table. It not hard to do you might know how to this but I will tell you anyway. Start by measuring for trailing edge of blade to your miter slots using the same tooth turn the blade to make it to leading edge they should measure the same if not check owners manual to adjust. Hope this help

View olddutchman's profile


187 posts in 3958 days

#8 posted 06-06-2009 02:51 AM

Have you checked the shaft? If there might be a slight movement, that could cause problems, Also, check the miter slot with the miter guage It could happen if there is play in a part of the movement.

-- Saved, and so grateful, consider who Created it ALL!!!

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matt garcia

1896 posts in 3695 days

#9 posted 06-06-2009 02:55 AM

Yeah, I think your reference edge wasn’t straight.

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

View TheCaver's profile


288 posts in 3862 days

#10 posted 06-06-2009 03:37 AM

ditto on the ref edge….sounds like your jointer outfeed table is off or technique on the jointer.

I’d verify that the jointed edge and fence is truly straight. If your fence is straight and you have a straight ref edge, there is not much that can go wrong. Even blade deflection could not account for both ends being off….However, a bow shaped ref edge that is held tightly against the fence can cause this problem exactly….

Try a featherboard just ahead of the blade rather than a ton of pressure against the fence at both ends….?

Also, are you POSITIVE that the width is off? Now you are introducing a second possible problem into the mix.

You can also do this: create 2 reference edges and cut the other side of both…..line them up together and see what you get.

Does your blade nip the trailing edge of the board? Do you get burning on any portion of your cuts?

Even if the blade is heeling, I don’t think that will cause the issue, since the part that does the cutting is not moving relative to the width. IE, a router bit….its not parallel to a slot, yet it cuts straight lines, but only if your fence and ref edge is straight. Your problem is bound to be there…..or in your measuring technique. DAMHIKT….I’ve corrected all kinds of problems that did not exist :) Or that I created myself :)


-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

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Tim Marko

41 posts in 3811 days

#11 posted 06-07-2009 06:19 PM

I finally got a chance to get back in the shop and try to solve the problem. I got the problem solved, but unfortunatly, everybody here was partially correct. Fortunatly, you were all here to be correct.

What I found as I went back through the entire process, were a number of things that were just slightly off that just kept compounding as I went through the process. I reset the jointer, retuned the TS realigned the fence and tried again and it works just fine.

JC, I found that a big part of the problem was my use of the caliper. I have a digital caliper that will measure in fractions and mils as well as meteric. The difference in the board when measured in mils was only a few thousandths (still not good but not as bad as I thought). When measured in 64ths, it was just enough to read as an extra 64th off.

Thanks for everyones help. It just goes to show you how tiny problems compound each step of the way.

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!

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