Question about TS Adjustment

Is your fence true and aligned it’s full length?

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

Top,

I just checked to be sure and yes it is true and the alignment was just done. I also checked to see if I’m getting any deflection, and don’t see or measure any.

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!

It’s possible to get some deviation even with a jointer. Did you check the reference edge for flatness before cutting?

Try using a full kerf blade if you’re not already, or use some stiffeners to flank the blade

-- Ed

scott, I did check the reference edge and it was true.

red, I do use a stiffener, but it is on a thin kerf freud blade if that helps.

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!

Is it possible that you are over feeding and deflecting the blade?

Try a cut at a more moderate speed and see if that helps.

Hello Tim If I can give my two cents I will say check to see if your blade is square to the table. It not hard to do you might know how to this but I will tell you anyway. Start by measuring for trailing edge of blade to your miter slots using the same tooth turn the blade to make it to leading edge they should measure the same if not check owners manual to adjust. Hope this help

Have you checked the shaft? If there might be a slight movement, that could cause problems, Also, check the miter slot with the miter guage It could happen if there is play in a part of the movement.

-- Saved, and so grateful, consider who Created it ALL!!!

Yeah, I think your reference edge wasn’t straight.

-- Matt, Houston Texas

ditto on the ref edge….sounds like your jointer outfeed table is off or technique on the jointer.

I’d verify that the jointed edge and fence is truly straight. If your fence is straight and you have a straight ref edge, there is not much that can go wrong. Even blade deflection could not account for both ends being off….However, a bow shaped ref edge that is held tightly against the fence can cause this problem exactly….

Try a featherboard just ahead of the blade rather than a ton of pressure against the fence at both ends….?

Also, are you POSITIVE that the width is off? Now you are introducing a second possible problem into the mix.

You can also do this: create 2 reference edges and cut the other side of both…..line them up together and see what you get.

Does your blade nip the trailing edge of the board? Do you get burning on any portion of your cuts?

Even if the blade is heeling, I don’t think that will cause the issue, since the part that does the cutting is not moving relative to the width. IE, a router bit….its not parallel to a slot, yet it cuts straight lines, but only if your fence and ref edge is straight. Your problem is bound to be there…..or in your measuring technique. DAMHIKT….I’ve corrected all kinds of problems that did not exist :) Or that I created myself :)

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

I finally got a chance to get back in the shop and try to solve the problem. I got the problem solved, but unfortunatly, everybody here was partially correct. Fortunatly, you were all here to be correct.

What I found as I went back through the entire process, were a number of things that were just slightly off that just kept compounding as I went through the process. I reset the jointer, retuned the TS realigned the fence and tried again and it works just fine.

JC, I found that a big part of the problem was my use of the caliper. I have a digital caliper that will measure in fractions and mils as well as meteric. The difference in the board when measured in mils was only a few thousandths (still not good but not as bad as I thought). When measured in 64ths, it was just enough to read as an extra 64th off.

Thanks for everyones help. It just goes to show you how tiny problems compound each step of the way.

-- Tim, trying to come up with something cool to say here!