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Hypoid saw question

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Forum topic by gmeiste posted 06-05-2009 01:07 AM 3426 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gmeiste

4 posts in 2745 days


06-05-2009 01:07 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hi. New here though have been browsing projects for a long while.

Anyway, I decided to buy a new circular saw…or rather a used one that should be much better than my old dead saw.

I ended up getting a lightly used Craftsman 28195 Hypoid 7 /14” saw. Having not used a hypoid or worm drive saw before I had a few questions as I am worried that the saw may be a dud. (Got it for less than $50) Well, I didn’t have a good blade so ended up using a $5 job from harbor freight I had laying around as it didn’t come with one. I put the blade on and measured the foot, blade seems true and distance from edges of the foot are equal.

So I made a test cut on a piece of 2x I had sitting outside…pressure treated and pretty wet but it was all I had. I cut a few inches in and backed out to take a look at the cut. The bottom of the cut looks square but the top half starts to drift and bend to the left. So if I kept on with the cut it would have been bowed. I carefully checked that the blade didn’t have a wobble by spinning it up and it seems fine without a load.

My first question is…do you think this has to do with the blade being crap…yeah it is new and should be sharp but it’s a HF Moly Carb so I don’t know. I am hoping it is just deflecting going through the wood because it is junk and not that there is an issue with the saw.

So my second question…when I spin the saw up it has what I can best describe as a rattle to it. When I let it spin down again with the rattle. My old saw had no brake, so is this normal and associated with the brake? (Like ABS on a car?) The rattle scared me because it sounded like the blade was catching on something in the guard but it is clear. I am worried that perhaps the bearings have gone and need to be replaced but I also realize that I am not used to a saw like this. I understand that there are gears going on, the saw has a brake and the rpm’s are down but the torque is way up…which is very noticable.

Well, thanks for any info you guys have. Going to do a few projects around the house this weekend if weather permits, just don’t want the saw to blow up in my hands.


9 replies so far

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tomakazi

684 posts in 2750 days


#1 posted 06-05-2009 08:16 AM

does the blade wobble when it’s running? sometimes the blade won’t be all the way tightened or blades warp when they get hot and the straighten up when they cool off. When you backed the saw out was it stoped? never never never back out a skilsaw when it’s running. check to see if there is oil in it, there should be a little cap on the side for the saw oil. let me know.

-- I didn't go to college, I was too busy learning stuff - Ted Nugent

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gmeiste

4 posts in 2745 days


#2 posted 06-05-2009 04:39 PM

Hi Tomakazi,

The blade doesn’t wobble and doesn’t seem to be warped. The cut I made was about 3-4 inches into a 2×12, I stopped the saw and backed it out to take a look at the cut with a square. As for oil, the Hypoids unlike the worms are sealed, “they” say you never need to oil them and in fact unless I take the whole thing apart I do not see any area to oil. I’m thinking about going to a Sears and asking to plug in and spin up their display to see if it sounds and feels the same, pick up a decent blade while I’m there as well.

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3115 days


#3 posted 06-05-2009 05:29 PM

I dont think it should rattle – saws with breaks do not rattle, not produce any noise (aside from the motor of course).

as far as the cut being bowed – are you using a straight edge as a guide to make your cut? or are you cutting freehand? if it’s freehand there’s a good possibility you are introducing the bowing yourself. Make sure you use a straight edge, and keep the sole flar on the board to be cut – and make sure that board is securely flat on a work surface of some sort (bench/platform/ground)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Julian

880 posts in 2992 days


#4 posted 06-05-2009 05:45 PM

The craftsman worm drive is actually a skilsaw. All the skilsaw parts will fit that saw. Are you sure the foot isn’t bent? I have used that type of saw for 20 years, and have replaced the foot/trigger/ handles many times on those. The gears are pretty indestructable, but if it’s low on oil, just put some more in it.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

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gmeiste

4 posts in 2745 days


#5 posted 06-05-2009 06:41 PM

Thanks for the replies. I squared up the shoe right when I got the package…it is a bit rough but doesn’t look bent at least to any noticeable degree. The issue I had with the cut was a freehand cut but the bow was not on the length of the cut…it is difficult to explain but I’ll try again. The 2×12 I did the test cut on was clamped down flat. I cut in about 4 inches and backed off to see the cut. Kneeling down and looking at the cut not from the top but rather going into the board on the 2x side I noticed that the first 3/4” was straight 90 degree and the second 3/4” where the blade would exit the top of the board during the cut seemed to travel about 1/8” to the left…as if the blade was going into the wood straight then bending to the left before exiting out the top.

As for the rattle…it is almost like the saw is running rough. Again, it is the newer hypoid design not a true worm drive so it sealed and there isn’t any place to add oil unless you literally disassembled the whole unit down to the gearbox. Here’s the link to the units manual, kinda useless except for the part list and the blowout http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0812684.pdf I’m worried about the rough sound thinking perhaps a bearing is out or something but have never used a saw like this so didn’t know if it was normal because of the gears and such. I think the best thing may be to goto sears and see if they’ll let me spin up their display model. When I spin mine up the best way I can describe the rattle is an obviously fast “ding ding ding” until it’s up to speed on has sped down. Like I said it seems like the blade was barely catching on something but it is clear all around. Was hoping that someone might have come across something like that previously…or it may be normal and this is just a whole different feel than my old saw.

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3115 days


#6 posted 06-05-2009 07:03 PM

did you run the saw WITHOUT the blade in it – to check if the noise is from the gears, or from something in the blade? worth checking.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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gmeiste

4 posts in 2745 days


#7 posted 06-05-2009 09:18 PM

Hey PurpLev.

Went to the store and tried theirs out for a bit. I know mine is used and wasn’t expecting new but the new one was much smoother.

I took the pos HF blade off and spun it up. Still not as smooth as new but certainly much better. I checked the carbons and they are still about 3/4 of an inch. I then took my square to the HF blade and it looks like it is dimpled in at the center…so it basically bent when I tightened it down when I put it on. Not sure if that could cause all the racket it was making but was going to grab the buy-one-get-one dewalt blades at the Depot this weekend for around the yard stuff and an ultra fine diablo for ripping ply. Hopefully they will hold up better…I have a feeling the dimple may explain the wandering through cut as well. F’n HF, figured $5 for a “waste” blade was ok, but this thing isn’t even useful to chop up pallets and crap…have a feeling the out of alignment aspect may mess up the bearings or motor.

Thanks for all the insight guys. Hopefully a better blade will help out…was almost tempted to grab some of the craftsman blades at sears when trying their saw…I think I know the answer to this, but anyone have experiance with them and know if they are worth the $15 a pop?

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tomakazi

684 posts in 2750 days


#8 posted 06-05-2009 09:38 PM

Sometimes on ( more often on cheap blades) when you knock out the diamond arbor you can bend the blade. There are alot of good blades out there for rough cuts around $10 like the Marathon or Freud Diablo

-- I didn't go to college, I was too busy learning stuff - Ted Nugent

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3115 days


#9 posted 06-05-2009 09:45 PM

I use the freud blades – I have the Diablo which is OK (40tooth). It’s a thin kerf and was $17 I believe. I find their Avanti 40tooth blade to be far superior as it’s full 1/8” thick and heavy – it’s $19 and worth every penny as it cuts everything like butter and then some. for “trash” blades, I use PC blades ~$5-$10.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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