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Tapered Legs on a Jointer?

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Forum topic by poroskywood posted 06-04-2009 04:47 PM 3897 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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poroskywood

618 posts in 2825 days


06-04-2009 04:47 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jig jointer tapered leg

I’ve been making tapered legs (four sides) on my table saw with a homemade jig, it works fine and I’ve had great success. I heard someone say they made some tapered legs on their jointer and was just wondering; how you would go about doing that and if there was a jig or technique, what would it look like or be? I can’t visualize how this would work.

-- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott


8 replies so far

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lew

11335 posts in 3216 days


#1 posted 06-04-2009 05:01 PM

The process isn’t difficult. Layout the leg on a square blank. Mark the taper starting point at the top of the leg. Set the jointer to remove about 1/32 to 1/16”. Pull the guard back away from the blade. Lower the leg blank down onto the running blades so that the material removed will begin at the point where you marked the taper. Push the blank thru to complete the pass. I like to use a push board that hooks over the end of the blank rather than pads for this operation.

This works because the portion of the blank that is not being tapered hits on the outfeed table first and then the material is removed as the blank is pushed thru.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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patron

13535 posts in 2802 days


#2 posted 06-04-2009 05:19 PM

ditto what lew said ,
just keep making passes to reach desired taper .
i usualy make the last one down on infeed end and it cleans up the slight begining marks .
in other words a complet pass set shallow .
.
good morning jim !
larry and i have been having fun on 2 blogs today ,
check it out .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 3335 days


#3 posted 06-04-2009 06:00 PM

DaveR – I follow what you are saying, but wouldn’t the initial cut also have to be half as deep as the final taper depth to set the desired taper angle?

-- http://www.peteroxley.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

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spaids

699 posts in 3154 days


#4 posted 06-04-2009 06:13 PM

Video instructions

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

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poroskywood

618 posts in 2825 days


#5 posted 06-04-2009 06:52 PM

Good video. I’ll be sure to give both techniques a try this weekend and post the results. Thanks for the help. It all seems so simple now. Isn’t that the way it usally works out.

-- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott

View Gary's profile

Gary

8968 posts in 2894 days


#6 posted 06-04-2009 09:19 PM

I like the method in the video. I have used it. I also use another method. I put a piece about 10” long with a 12 degree cut on the outfeed side and run the leg up that ramp. I lower the leg into the blade and move it up the ramp and I get a tapered leg. I don’t have to move the infeed table.

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

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Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 3335 days


#7 posted 06-04-2009 09:38 PM

Thanks for posting the link. Looks like a good way to do it.

Two things that I would be careful about that weren’t mentioned in the video:
1) The deeper your cut, the more chance of kickback as you are start your cut. Be careful as you are introducting the end grain to the cutterhead set at 3/8 or more.
2) When you are finishing the taper and the trailing edge comes off the infeed table, be careful not to push the end down into the cutterhead. In the video he prevented this by providing downforce over the outfeed table with the pushstick in his left hand.

I like to use stop-blocks for repeatability, rather than lining up lines – my hand isn’t always that steady.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

View kolwdwrkr's profile

kolwdwrkr

2821 posts in 3051 days


#8 posted 06-04-2009 10:30 PM

I’m curious to see this done with an exotic lumber instead of the softer poplar. His blades have got to be sharper then sharp all the time. One cut on something hard and I think the thinking may change. Just my .02 cents. Personally I’d use a bandsaw or a tapering jig on the TS.

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

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