Water based finish

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Forum topic by Vjeko posted 06-04-2009 02:00 PM 950 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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135 posts in 3377 days

06-04-2009 02:00 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finishing question

I’m making this post after being diagnosed with asthma – I hope my
powered respirator will allow me to proceed with woodwork, otherwise
I will need to pack it in and change my hobby.

I’ve purchased the compressor and spray gun a while ago and would appreciate
some pointers to avoid obvious mistakes. I’m in Croatia/have different
finish products here, so unfortunately I can’t get a lot
of info via the web on application of specific products and haven’t
mastered the fine art/chemistry of finishing ;).

I’m aiming at a semigloss clear finish on some parts and clear cherry on others.

This is the list of wood material I have at hand/ is/will be used for table,cabinet
and bed projects(if asthma allows):
- wood : beech, ash, oak, cherry, maple, spruce and fir
- veneered plywood :beech, ash , sapelli/mahagony and poplar

I picked up two finishing products :
(1) a water based varnish (at least that’s the
way they translated it although on the can is says “lak” (more like lacquer)
(2)a water based stain (at least that’s how they translated it – it says
“lazura” and states it is a transparent coating
(here’s the english web page – first two products:

For both the clear finish and stain, I would like to know whether
I need to put on some base coat for pore filling on any of the
wood products.

For the stain, I’m not sure whether I need to give it a final
coat of varnish.


-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

2 replies so far

View kolwdwrkr's profile


2821 posts in 3553 days

#1 posted 06-04-2009 03:50 PM

I don’t think you need to put a base coat to fill the pores (wash coat). That would be more to help prevent blotching when you apply the stain (may be suggested for the cherry). Put the wash coat on very thin (dilluted) if you take that route, otherwise your stain becomes a glaze, and won’t penetrate the wood. If you want a high gloss finish I would suggest filling the pores with a pore filler (not finish). But since you want a semi gloss finish it is not necessary.

Unless the stain has varnish in it you will always need to top coat over it. I would suggest a barrier coat of sanding sealer or shellac between the clear coats and the stain. Just to ensure proper adhesion, although it may not always be necessary when you use products from the same company like you are now.


-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

View Vjeko's profile


135 posts in 3377 days

#2 posted 06-04-2009 09:13 PM

So, the wash/base coat is mainly for the stain /I wasn’t absolutely clear on what is used for the wash coat – is it diluted stain itself ?

What about end grain on eg fir which looks darker / how can that be avoided) ?

I guess sanding sealer and pore filler are specially formulated products
i.e. you don’t use one of the other products such as varnish, lacquer etc. for this purpose ?

Forgot to ask – what’s the difference between lacquer and varnish (I ask because I was
specifically looking for water based acrilyc lacquer around here as I had seen it
mentioned in many posts on the web and on the can it says “lak” which would better translate to
“lacquer” ?


-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

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