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Forum topic by DannyBoy posted 06-01-2009 02:50 AM 806 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DannyBoy

521 posts in 2518 days


06-01-2009 02:50 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw tap and dye hardware metric screws

I’m working on getting this bandsaw a budy gave me working and I came accross an interesting snag. The screws on it are all metric (of course). But the funny thing is, the ones that I don’t have enough of are M6 with 1.25 threads. As far as I can tell, this aren’t really made much any more. That is, I can’t find them at Lowes or Ace Westlake.

So, I figure if I do some looking I could probably find an M6 with 1.25 threads somewhere. But just in case, I’m looking into a plan ‘B’.

I just read in Shop Notes and they opened my eyes to a wonderful tool called the Tap and Dye. I seriously never new that this was what this tool was for. Dumb me, huh?

So, I’m considering getting a small set and using the tap to re-bore some of the holes to accept a slightly bigger screw (maybe something that isn’t metric). But, I wanted to get some input first. The part that I am going to be tapping is the table for the saw on the underside.

Anyone think this will work? Is there anyone who has some tips on when I do this? Any other optoins other than Plan ‘A’ and Plan ‘B’ that I haven’t thought of?

Thanks.

Danny Boy

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/


8 replies so far

View oldskoolmodder's profile

oldskoolmodder

761 posts in 2332 days


#1 posted 06-01-2009 03:01 AM

LOCAL hardware stores almost always carry these, at least around me they do. Sometimes the locals can be your friends.

-- Respect your shop tools and they will respect you - Ric

View DaleM's profile

DaleM

913 posts in 2036 days


#2 posted 06-01-2009 03:07 AM

A tap and die set should work fine. When using it, make sure you don’t try to cut too much at once. Repeatedly back the tap back up to remove waste, then thread it back in to cut some more. If you try to do too much at once and snap it off in the hole, it will be really, really hard to remove as it is necessarily very hard steel and you will end up with a bigger problem than you started with. (Or so I heard, not that I would do something like that)

-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14742 posts in 2328 days


#3 posted 06-01-2009 03:08 AM

Be sure to use the right size drill first, use something like “Tap-eze” or cutting oil, and back the tap out every little bit to clear it. They are very hard and a bit brittle to cut hard steel, they break fairly easily if forced too much.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View lew's profile (online now)

lew

10029 posts in 2408 days


#4 posted 06-01-2009 03:15 AM

Also, you may need to expand your twist drill bit set. Depending on the size of the tap, you may need some “odd” sized drill bits that are not so common in wood working. Sizes up to 1/4” are often “lettered” sizes.

To get a good “fit” you need to use the precise size bit. It may be cheaper to buy what you need rather than a set. In fact, if all you are doing is tapping holes, you probably won’t need the die and die handle- which can be expensive. Get the tap, tap handle and the bit to match the “percentage” of thread depth. Look up the Starrett site for a machinist chart. It will give you everything you need.

Sorry- Topamax beat me to some of this!

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View marcb's profile

marcb

762 posts in 2326 days


#5 posted 06-01-2009 03:20 AM

Metric taps use metric drill bit sizes.

View DannyBoy's profile

DannyBoy

521 posts in 2518 days


#6 posted 06-01-2009 05:00 PM

Oldskool, You’d think I’d find it, but I went to three different hardware stores and didn’t. The 1.25 threads are widely available for M7s and M8s but not for M6s. There in lies my problem.

I’ve got enough to hold everything together, but I’m going to want to finish it out so I’ll probably be upgrading my tool set to have the at least the taps for this. I appreciate the helping advice, guys!

Danny

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

View Mike's profile

Mike

391 posts in 2270 days


#7 posted 06-05-2009 12:04 PM

Sometimes I find the closest reg threaded self tapping screw. It works I use that to redo the threads then use a screw with the same threads without the tapping front.

Do it all the time on metal doors and frames. Aluminum doors, even safe doors. And those are thick.

Saves me from redrill and tapping.

-- Measure once cut twice....oh wait....ooops.

View BasHolland's profile

BasHolland

85 posts in 1335 days


#8 posted 01-27-2011 01:32 PM

”I just read in Shop Notes and they opened my eyes to a wonderful tool called the Tap and Dye”

I was looking about some information about tap and die. I searched my archive in Shopnotes.
For people who wanted to know: nr. 105 gives information about tapping threads.

Bas

-- Bas, Holland

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