Is this the norm?

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Forum topic by Wendybird posted 03-05-2015 03:02 AM 1099 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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36 posts in 625 days

03-05-2015 03:02 AM

Is this many saw marks normal? Or is there some adjusting needing done on my table saw? I just got the saw so I’m unsure.

26 replies so far

View firefighterontheside's profile


13103 posts in 1280 days

#1 posted 03-05-2015 03:03 AM

Hard to tell.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View pjones46's profile


986 posts in 2066 days

#2 posted 03-05-2015 03:12 AM

What type of blade are you using and have you tried a different blade. It could be the blade. Also, it could be that fence is out of line with the blade.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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993 posts in 1353 days

#3 posted 03-05-2015 03:22 AM

Well, based upon the picture, I would say any saw marks you have are damned near invisible. I wouldn’t worry about it.

-- You've got to be smarter than the tree.

View waho6o9's profile


7124 posts in 2000 days

#4 posted 03-05-2015 04:15 AM

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36 posts in 625 days

#5 posted 03-05-2015 11:54 AM

I tried posting a picture. Not sure what happened. I was wondering if I was a fence issue. I had a mother table saw and returned it. But when I cut with it, it’s didn’t leave any saw marks

View Tennessee's profile


2410 posts in 1938 days

#6 posted 03-05-2015 12:25 PM

Those marks should not be there. Either your blade is changing position ever so slightly, or your fence is moving, or you are not feeding it through straight and the edge against the fence is coming away a bit as you push it through. I never see that unless I mess up and allow the wood to come off the fence a little bit while pushing it through.

-- Paul, Tennessee,

View MrFid's profile


793 posts in 1328 days

#7 posted 03-05-2015 12:27 PM

From your picture that looks like a very tall rip to me. If I were making that cut, I’d cut kerfs from both sides, and finish the cut with a hand saw (or bandsaw, if you’re lucky enough to have one), especially if your table saw is not a beast anymore. Then you’ll need to take a handplane to it to flatten and smooth out the saw marks. This is often necessary even if everything is adjusted and the stock is perfectly prepared for the cut. Also, it sort of looks like construction lumber a la 2×4 given the knots I can see. Are the other three sides square and flat? If you haven’t run the other sides through the jointer and planer, then it’s likely that your stock is not flat and square, which will result in saw marks (or worse). I also can’t tell what blade you’re using, but that may be part of the story.

Hope this all helps! Best of luck!

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

View knotscott's profile


7147 posts in 2799 days

#8 posted 03-05-2015 12:30 PM

The quality of the cut is the result of several different factors that include the proper setup of the saw, an arbor that’s flat and spins true, a flat rigid throat insert, a quality blade that’s sharp and suitable for the task (stock blade’s typically don’t make the grade), proper tightening of the blade nut (not overtight), straight fence that’s parallel with the blade, good technique and ample motor power, a reasonably flat saw top, and flat straight stock. If any one of those components is off, it’ll translate to the cut. If that board wasn’t flattened and squared prior to ripping, you’re far more likely to have saw marks even if everything else about the setup is perfect. A board that rocks and moves during the cut won’t leave a perfect cut. If everything is dead on including a flat board, you could have some runout in the arbor or the saw blade.

Either way, the saw is capable of leaving glue ready edges for joining, but it’s never finish ready IMO.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View rwe2156's profile


2126 posts in 904 days

#9 posted 03-05-2015 12:36 PM

Could be the blade, but you need to rule out the machine set up.

My first guess is your fence may not not parallel to blade.

Check all parameters before using further:

Blade 90 degrees to table
Blade parallel to slots
Fence parallel to blade

There are plenty of videos out there if you need them.

Don’t know what kind of machine this is, but if its an older Craftsman, the big issue is the fence. They were just poorly made.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Don Meek

1 post in 636 days

#10 posted 03-05-2015 12:44 PM

Get that result 90% of the time in the UK! – purely because good quality equipment is very expensive, and much of the gear here in the UK, is imported from the Far East!

View Wendybird's profile


36 posts in 625 days

#11 posted 03-05-2015 12:46 PM

It is a brand new delta 36-725. I got the same issues when just cutting a 2×4 in half so I did this to exaggerate the issue. To see what’s going on. ill get out there later today and start messing with the alignment. I just wanted to be sure that this was normal or not first

View dhazelton's profile


2294 posts in 1720 days

#12 posted 03-05-2015 01:31 PM

Are you ripping a pine 4×4 and expect a mirror finish? Unless you had some kind of automatic feeder to regulate speed and the board had one side jointed already and everything was aligned perfectly and the Jupiter aligned with Mars I’d say it’s not gonna happen and you shouldn’t really care. If you want perfection leave a bit of waste then run the board through a plane or jointer.

View waho6o9's profile


7124 posts in 2000 days

#13 posted 03-05-2015 01:46 PM

That’s par for the course for construction lumber.

View TheFridge's profile


5682 posts in 909 days

#14 posted 03-05-2015 02:35 PM

Was this 2×4 jointed? Kinda looks like it was wobbling as it was cut.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Wendybird's profile


36 posts in 625 days

#15 posted 03-05-2015 03:51 PM

No it was not jointed.

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