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poly over danish oil

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Forum topic by HokieMojo posted 1916 days ago 4517 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HokieMojo

2098 posts in 2360 days


1916 days ago

I applied watco danish oil to some walnut and want to put a harder finish over the top, so I think I’m going to go with poly. I’ve heard some people say that oil based poly can cause the colors to bleed into the finish requiring the use of a water based poly. Could anyone tell me which I should probably use?
Thanks!


9 replies so far

View barryrichardson's profile

barryrichardson

6 posts in 1943 days


#1 posted 1916 days ago

I have used poly over danish oil for years, never had a problem, it is my favorite finish for walnut furniture.

-- Barry, Goodyear AZ

View poroskywood's profile

poroskywood

614 posts in 1996 days


#2 posted 1916 days ago

I asked the same question a while back here The end result was let the Danish oil cure for a week and apply oil based poly over top of it. Do not apply water base over oil they just don’t mix like ham and peanut butter.

-- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2454 days


#3 posted 1916 days ago

Putting poly over danish oil is no problem. Bleeding into the topcoat can occur if you apply a stain to the wood before adding poly. A seal coat of shellac with stop any bleeding. But if you let the stain and/or danish oil cure out before applying the poly then you will have no problems with the poly topcoat. Just remember to scuff sand before each coat of poly with 320 grit to provide a surface for the poly to adhere to since it binds by mechanical adhesion to the underlying layers.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15688 posts in 2850 days


#4 posted 1916 days ago

As others have said, oil based poly over danish oil is fine. I do it a lot.

I’m just wondering what’s wrong with ham and peanut butter? :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Tim Pursell's profile

Tim Pursell

494 posts in 2414 days


#5 posted 1916 days ago

“I’m just wondering what’s wrong with ham and peanut butter? :-)”

Nuttin’——as long as it’s smoooooooth P.B., Crunchy is a no-no.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/tpursell?ref=si_shop

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HokieMojo

2098 posts in 2360 days


#6 posted 1916 days ago

thanks everyone. I wish I could remember where I read it, but it was somethign along the lines of using different solvent bases for each layer. I’m thinking scott may have actually cleared up my confusion though because maybe it dealt with stains and dyes only.

Well, I’m about 95% finished with the crib I’m building but now the tough part is here. I’ll have a constructed project this weekend (I sure hope so at least) but I’ll need to give everything a few weeks to cure sufficiently. I wish I would have worked faster before she was born. Don’t know if you guys are aware, but babies take up a lot of time!

View Kindlingmaker's profile

Kindlingmaker

2654 posts in 2158 days


#7 posted 1916 days ago

Poly over danish… I like coffee with my danish but poly works well ; )
...by the way here’s a PB cookbook for ya all: http://www.ilovepeanutbutter.com/detail_3901__3.html

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112015 posts in 2209 days


#8 posted 1916 days ago

Scott has the same answer I would.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View McLeanVA's profile

McLeanVA

465 posts in 2066 days


#9 posted 1916 days ago

I recently finished a small cherry table with Watco (3x) and Wipe-on Poly (3x) with a finishing of #0000 steel wool with a little paste wax on it. It really gave it a nice finish. Poroskywood gave me the tip about waiting until the oil cured. I’d totally use the combo again. Good luck.

-- Measure, cut, curse, repeat.

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