Laquer over wax/oil finish?

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Forum topic by JR545 posted 03-04-2015 09:17 PM 2341 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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19 posts in 1155 days

03-04-2015 09:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Need some advice, I’m new to the whole “finishes other than poly” world.
I built a rustic console table for my wife out of reclaimed lumber so I could experiment with different finishes and techniques.
The top conists of segments of different species of pallet and fencing lumber lightly carbonized and skip planed with a tung oil finish.
The legs(ripped down pine 2x’s) and skirt (mystery hard white wood from a pallet) are carbonized and painted with a homemade chalk paint using a latex and calcium carbonate mixture. I scraped and sanded back the paint to simulate wear and added some brown wax to dirty up the white paint.
My question is, can I use spray laquer to seal over the whole project?
If not, what if anything could I use to seal the whole piece?
Please be kind in any criticism on the actual construction… feelings bruise

10 replies so far

View HerbC's profile


1744 posts in 2827 days

#1 posted 03-04-2015 09:25 PM

No on the lacquer over the wax…

You might have some luck with shellac, it’s a lot better at adhering to other finishes…

Good Luck!


-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!"

View Earlextech's profile


1160 posts in 2659 days

#2 posted 03-04-2015 09:36 PM

Zinsser Seal Coat = dewaxed shellac. It can go under and over anything and anything can go over it!

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View JR545's profile


19 posts in 1155 days

#3 posted 03-04-2015 09:51 PM

Thanks for the quick relies.
I was looking to grab some Seal Coat as a pre-stain for some of the softer reclaimed woods I use already.
Looking at Zinnsers web site for specs it appears that I could Seal Coat the entire piece and then poly over the Seal Coat?

View Ron Ford's profile

Ron Ford

208 posts in 1700 days

#4 posted 03-04-2015 09:57 PM

Yup. Shellac is known as a universal finish that you can put over or under any other finish. Seal Cote (the dewaxed stuff) is a perfect choice.

-- Once in awhile I make something really great. Most days I just make sawdust.

View mickel12's profile


1 post in 1146 days

#5 posted 03-06-2015 07:07 AM

Mian ayaz

Nice Post

View canadianchips's profile


2600 posts in 2965 days

#6 posted 03-06-2015 03:38 PM

I use minwax “polycrylic”.
It will POP the distressed sanding areas.
Try it on a scrap piece. YOU WILL LIKE this product, it leaves a clear finish, no yellowing.
I never use the wax method under paint to distress my projects”
Once again you will have to experiment with acrylic over wax ! Use a test piece first. You might try a “PST” wash first to remove the wax.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View OSU55's profile


1634 posts in 1958 days

#7 posted 03-06-2015 04:38 PM

Strip the brown wax and use glaze or thinned acrylic paint to “antique” the look, then topcoat with about anything. Using dewaxed shellac as a 1st topcoat would help with any other topcoat you want to use. Pretty sure the wax will be a problem even for shellac.

View pintodeluxe's profile


5623 posts in 2781 days

#8 posted 03-06-2015 05:32 PM

While Zinssner Seal Coat is seen as a universal sealer, usually you would remove the wax with mineral spirits first. If the wax is not removed, you could have adhesion problems. Wax is hard enough to remove from smooth, closed grain hardwood. It would be nearly impossible to remove the wax from reclaimed wood.
Does it have wax on it? If it just has well-cured tung oil you can use any finish of your choice. The title made me think you had waxed it. If it has wax on it, I would just add some colored wax such as Briwax or Howards Walnut wax. For a piece like this, a wax finish would be okay, and the colored wax will age it a bit.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View DrDirt's profile


4423 posts in 3710 days

#9 posted 03-06-2015 05:42 PM

The wax is the problem – the curing oils applied like tung or linseed you will be OK.

If you had some NON-curing oil like mineral oil/butcher block oil, that you wanted to coat, that would be a problem

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View JR545's profile


19 posts in 1155 days

#10 posted 03-07-2015 04:08 PM

Thanks guys.
The wax was only applied to the painted portions of the table. I’ll remove the wax with MS and try the glaze instead to preclude any finishing problems.
I also discovered after reading up on tung oil the the product my wife brought home is a wiping varnish instead of tung oil (Formby’s).
I should have this mess sorted out in the next few days and will update with results.
Thanks for all the suggestions/guidance.

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