Brad Nailer vs. Pin Nailer on 1/4 material

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Forum topic by BrandonR posted 03-04-2015 03:32 AM 1286 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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64 posts in 2315 days

03-04-2015 03:32 AM

I just got a request to make some small boxes for a client. He wants me to use 1/4 solid poplar or oak to make the boxes… He wants them really simple with just but joints and glues and nailed…. I have never worked with this thin of material with brad nailer… I had a lot of problem with the nails shoot out the sides or splitting the wood….

would you suggest a pin nailer, and would it hold pretty good with glue? Or am I using the brad nailer wrong? What size nails would you recommend?


11 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile


2932 posts in 2195 days

#1 posted 03-04-2015 03:51 AM

Glue should hold just fine. I use pins in that size material but only to keep it from shifting when clamping. I have had problems with pins over 1/2 ” long coming out the side. You stand a good chance of splitting the material with a 18 ga brad nailer.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View jumbojack's profile


1677 posts in 2646 days

#2 posted 03-04-2015 03:57 AM

The trick.with mailers it to orient the nailer on the same like as the material. If you run perpendicular the nail hits a hard spot the chisel point directs the nail out or through your work. With 1/4” material I suggest a pin nails and glue.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View woodchuckerNJ's profile


1276 posts in 1656 days

#3 posted 03-04-2015 04:01 AM

Glue would hold alone, the only reason for nails is to avoid clamping.
if you have enough clamps just glue.

If not a pin nailer for 1/4 would work, but I would rather just clamp, or gang clamp.

-- Jeff NJ

View NoThanks's profile


798 posts in 1551 days

#4 posted 03-04-2015 05:00 AM

Iwud just cut a rabbit and dado and glue them.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View ChefHDAN's profile


1067 posts in 2871 days

#5 posted 03-04-2015 12:31 PM

+ to Iwud4u, with 1/4” it’s real easy to just run quick 1/8” dados then sneak up on the rabbet/tenon

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View BrandonR's profile


64 posts in 2315 days

#6 posted 03-04-2015 12:39 PM

Thanks! I will be making a great quantity of these, so try to figure out most efficient method.

Would you suggest doing the dados on the table saw or router for just 1/8th. I don’t have dado blades on my table saw, so would need to make multiple passes.


View PaulHWood's profile (online now)


435 posts in 2275 days

#7 posted 03-04-2015 01:47 PM

agree minimum length pin to just hold while you clamp, even in oak, they will deflect

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice

View NoThanks's profile


798 posts in 1551 days

#8 posted 03-04-2015 02:38 PM

I’d do it on the table saw myself.
Regular 1/8” kerf saw blade would work fine, even a thin kerf blade as long as you match the tenon to the kerf.
Just make sure your blade leaves a flat bottom.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View BrandonR's profile


64 posts in 2315 days

#9 posted 03-04-2015 03:26 PM

Thanks guys! Here is the box… Only diffrence is that front plate will go up past the sides before it takes the angle.

View BrandonR's profile


64 posts in 2315 days

#10 posted 03-04-2015 03:27 PM

Should I do the same joinery with the bottom piece, or will that mess up when it 3 sides meet in a corner. Sorry for all questions, I rarely do joinery…

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2712 days

#11 posted 03-05-2015 01:30 AM

You said he wants butt joints but this project is a perfect candidate for box joints with a dado for the bottom.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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