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Brad Nailer vs. Pin Nailer on 1/4 material

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Forum topic by BrandonR posted 03-04-2015 03:32 AM 905 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BrandonR

64 posts in 1753 days


03-04-2015 03:32 AM

I just got a request to make some small boxes for a client. He wants me to use 1/4 solid poplar or oak to make the boxes… He wants them really simple with just but joints and glues and nailed…. I have never worked with this thin of material with brad nailer… I had a lot of problem with the nails shoot out the sides or splitting the wood….

would you suggest a pin nailer, and would it hold pretty good with glue? Or am I using the brad nailer wrong? What size nails would you recommend?

Thanks!


11 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2143 posts in 1633 days


#1 posted 03-04-2015 03:51 AM

Glue should hold just fine. I use pins in that size material but only to keep it from shifting when clamping. I have had problems with pins over 1/2 ” long coming out the side. You stand a good chance of splitting the material with a 18 ga brad nailer.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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jumbojack

1667 posts in 2084 days


#2 posted 03-04-2015 03:57 AM

The trick.with mailers it to orient the nailer on the same like as the material. If you run perpendicular the nail hits a hard spot the chisel point directs the nail out or through your work. With 1/4” material I suggest a pin nails and glue.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View woodchuckerNJ's profile

woodchuckerNJ

1153 posts in 1094 days


#3 posted 03-04-2015 04:01 AM

Glue would hold alone, the only reason for nails is to avoid clamping.
if you have enough clamps just glue.

If not a pin nailer for 1/4 would work, but I would rather just clamp, or gang clamp.

-- Jeff NJ

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NoThanks

798 posts in 989 days


#4 posted 03-04-2015 05:00 AM

Iwud just cut a rabbit and dado and glue them.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

805 posts in 2309 days


#5 posted 03-04-2015 12:31 PM

+ to Iwud4u, with 1/4” it’s real easy to just run quick 1/8” dados then sneak up on the rabbet/tenon

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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BrandonR

64 posts in 1753 days


#6 posted 03-04-2015 12:39 PM

Thanks! I will be making a great quantity of these, so try to figure out most efficient method.

Would you suggest doing the dados on the table saw or router for just 1/8th. I don’t have dado blades on my table saw, so would need to make multiple passes.

Thanks

View PaulHWood's profile

PaulHWood

333 posts in 1713 days


#7 posted 03-04-2015 01:47 PM

agree minimum length pin to just hold while you clamp, even in oak, they will deflect

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice

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NoThanks

798 posts in 989 days


#8 posted 03-04-2015 02:38 PM

I’d do it on the table saw myself.
Regular 1/8” kerf saw blade would work fine, even a thin kerf blade as long as you match the tenon to the kerf.
Just make sure your blade leaves a flat bottom.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

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BrandonR

64 posts in 1753 days


#9 posted 03-04-2015 03:26 PM

Thanks guys! Here is the box… Only diffrence is that front plate will go up past the sides before it takes the angle.

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BrandonR

64 posts in 1753 days


#10 posted 03-04-2015 03:27 PM

Should I do the same joinery with the bottom piece, or will that mess up when it 3 sides meet in a corner. Sorry for all questions, I rarely do joinery…

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2150 days


#11 posted 03-05-2015 01:30 AM

You said he wants butt joints but this project is a perfect candidate for box joints with a dado for the bottom.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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