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Forum topic by JAY Made posted 02-28-2015 04:26 PM 812 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JAY Made

191 posts in 1468 days

02-28-2015 04:26 PM

Topic tags/keywords: blade tablesaw milling

Hey everyone:

In a few weeks I will be ordering a Grizzly table saw the G1023RL. On my current saw I am using Freud thin kerf blades but I will need full kerf blades for the new saw. What blades do you recommend? I have no problem using a cut-off bland and a separate rip blade. I’m a hobbyist and I do work with 8/4 hardwoods frequently as well as plywood and some soft woods. Any recommendations will be appreciated.



-- We all should push ourselves to learn new skills.

8 replies so far

View woodchuckerNJ's profile


1140 posts in 1057 days

#1 posted 02-28-2015 04:29 PM

yes, get a SawStop , then get a forrest wwii.
And a forrest rip blade.

Then you will have the best of the best.

-- Jeff NJ

View Dez's profile


1162 posts in 3501 days

#2 posted 02-28-2015 05:42 PM

Why can’t you use the thin kerf blade on the Grizzly?

-- Folly ever comes cloaked in opportunity!

View bonesbr549's profile


1137 posts in 2490 days

#3 posted 02-28-2015 05:51 PM

Well I had the Griz 1023slx for over 10 years, and I used the thin kerf WWII on it with no issue. Did get a tiny bit of deflection on the angled cuts. I upgraded last year to the Sawstop 5HP ICS and tried the stock blade and bought their premium blade, and bought a Forrest full kerf WWII, and a 20T WWII (for ripping 12/4).

My observations were the Forrest WWII is best, but twice as expensive as the SS premium blade

The SS premium blade is a fine blade and did excellent cuts for cross cut and rip, the final finish is only a hair below the WWII

The stock ss blade was cheap, and was ok, but not up to the premium or wwii. I have that put that one away for construction cuts or an emergency blade should I have no other.

The WWII (full Kerf) is my work horse 20 years now. I’m sure others are good, but that’s my choice.

BTW I got the thin kerf to (blather at the time) to save lumber, but found it’s only fractional at best. I see no bennefit in practicle use.

Thats my opinion, but that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee.

Have a good one, and enjoy the new saw.

Post some pics and do a review when you get it.

We all love new toys even if they belong to someone else.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View knotscott's profile


7147 posts in 2799 days

#4 posted 02-28-2015 06:04 PM

Congrats on the new saw….great saw for the money.

Tips For Picking Saw Blades

You didn’t mention an intended budget. It’s tough to beat these three for $180. All top shelf, 1/8” full kerf, nickel plated, super carbide, design, and manufacturing.

If you’re more bargain oriented, this and this are terrific deals on very good industrial grade blades (~ $60 for both shipped) ...they combine s/h, so you could add this too for not much more.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Planeman40's profile


790 posts in 2184 days

#5 posted 02-28-2015 06:12 PM

I am going to speak a horrible heresy here . . .

Try a Harbor Freight blade. (I can hear the screaming now!) Yes, a Horrible Freight blade. Here is a little story about how I found out how good these blades are. First of all, I am not a newbie. I am 74 years old and have been woodworking for over 60 years. I have done commission woodwork ( custom furniture) for some very prominent architects in the past so my skills are excellent. I just state this for my qualifications.

A couple of years ago I installed a new $4,000 Hammer sliding table saw in my shop. It came with a 10” blade with the European style arbor hole (two locating pins just outside of the arbor hole) so my old blades didn’t fit. I used the 10” blade for a few months until I encountered a need for a 12” blade to cut some moldings (yes, the Hammer saw is a 12” saw). I only needed to cut eight cuts to get the job done. As I am retired now and on a fixed income, I watch my pennies. I hated to pay around $130 for a blade to do eight cuts. I happened to be walking through the local Harbor Freight store when I rounded the corner and came upon the saw blade display. I saw a 12” blade with 96 carbide teeth that was priced at $36. The hole was the American standard 1/2” hole with no pin holes, but I knew Forrest blades was capable of re-punching the hole to the slightly larger European size and adding the locating pin holes. I bought the blade and called Forrest Blades in New Jersey. Yes they could do the job for around $35. That was a $60 savings not including the postage. I installed the “cheap” HF blade on my $4,000 saw and it worked beautifully! It ran absolutely straight and gave nice glass smooth cuts! I have kept that blade on the saw now for almost two years and still love it. I never put the 10” blade back on.


-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View JAY Made's profile

JAY Made

191 posts in 1468 days

#6 posted 03-01-2015 02:23 AM

@Dez TK blades are to thin to use with the riving knife.

Additional Blade Information
Included Blade Information…....................................................... 10” x 40T
Riving Knife/Spreader Thickness…................................................ 0.098 – 0.102 in.
Required Blade Body Thickness….................................... ............. 0.086 – 0.094 in.
Required Blade Kerf Thickness…................................................... 0.122 – 0.129 in.

@Knotscott thanks for the info

-- We all should push ourselves to learn new skills.

View TheFridge's profile


5682 posts in 909 days

#7 posted 03-01-2015 02:34 AM

I got a Forrest ww2 40t for cross its and rips and it’s pretty awesome on both. It’s the only blade I’ve ever used that I’ve paid more than 50$ for. So I can’t speak of any others.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View tom in indy's profile

tom in indy

41 posts in 1771 days

#8 posted 03-01-2015 01:27 PM


I just got the 1023RL, I got a Ridge Carbide blade
I have saw the cut from this blade, both rip in 2 inch oak and crosscut in 1X8 inch cherry.
both cuts smooth as a baby’s butt.

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