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Forum topic by RT31 posted 02-27-2015 05:07 PM 735 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RT31

54 posts in 1124 days


02-27-2015 05:07 PM

So i just finished making a rock solid router table extension for my table saw. I used 3/4” MDF sandwiched between 2 – 1/4” pieces of baltic birch. I got it all perfect and when i was ready to use it i realized…the table was to thick and the bit couldn’t reach past the table top. So what should i do?

As far as i can see my options are buy a table insert or router bit extender. Which would you get and why?

Any other options? Money is tight right now so if there is a free shop made solution please let me know.


20 replies so far

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1592 posts in 892 days


#1 posted 02-27-2015 05:08 PM

Get a router lift.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View crank49's profile

crank49

3981 posts in 2438 days


#2 posted 02-27-2015 05:14 PM

Bit extenders are asking for trouble in my opinion.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#3 posted 02-27-2015 05:20 PM

crank49 – I used the Router Xtreme extender for a long time with no problems, and I loved the simple hex-key bit change feature. Granted, my anecdotal experience certainly doesn’t prove they are safe/unsafe. I mean, I wouldn’t use it with a big honkin’ panel raising bit, but for general purposes I thought it was pretty secure and didn’t run out.

RT31, how much more reach do you need and what router are you using? A table insert would be better than an extender (unless you want it specifically for the above-table, fast-and-easy bit change like I did). But on a budget, if you aren’t using a giant 3.25 hp router could you just recess the underside of the tabletop a little where the router attaches without generating much sag?

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#4 posted 02-27-2015 05:22 PM

Go to walmart and get one of those strong plastic black cutting boards. Cut a hole in the middle of it so large bids can get through it. Place your router bit at the center and mark your screw holes. Use your router to cut enough wood for your cutting board to sit flush on the table. Fasten your router to the cutting board and place in the opening. Now you have a removable router.

-- earthartandfoods.com

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mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#5 posted 02-27-2015 05:26 PM

You have to have a big enough full opening for the router to go in and out. The cutting board is about 5” x 7”. Mine has about 1” lip for the cutting board to rest on.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14655 posts in 2151 days


#6 posted 02-27-2015 05:29 PM

Then, buy two of the cutting boards, one for the router and one to cover the hole when the router is taken out.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

1406 posts in 2453 days


#7 posted 02-27-2015 05:32 PM

I got the Rockler insert plate and would do it again in a heartbeat. Works great. The extenders make me nervous. I know they say they are safe, but I look at the dynamics of a system like that and would rather avoid the situation.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 954 days


#8 posted 02-27-2015 05:48 PM

Rout out a recess. My vote.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View RT31's profile

RT31

54 posts in 1124 days


#9 posted 02-27-2015 06:19 PM

WOW thanks for the quick responses. Lots of good ideas too.

If i were to recess the bottom of the top. how much material would you recommend i leave between the bottom of the countersunk holes to the bottom of the table? do i need the bottom piece of BB ply or with the MDF be ok by itself?

I am going to mostly use a 1.75 HP Milwaukee router (5615?) in the table and maybe my Bosch 1617.

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#10 posted 02-27-2015 07:08 PM

MDF will be just fine at 3/4”. The lip can be as wide as you want it so long as you can pull the router out.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#11 posted 02-27-2015 07:09 PM

The cutting board is about 1/4” thick. So you want your recess to be that deep.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3599 posts in 1955 days


#12 posted 02-27-2015 07:19 PM

I did the same thing. Then built a poly-carbonate router plate and cut an insert to fit it in.
If there is too much flex for you, screw a couple of pieces of metal angle to the bottom.
That will stiffen the board as much as you will ever need.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View crank49's profile

crank49

3981 posts in 2438 days


#13 posted 02-27-2015 07:21 PM

Unless I’m missing something I think the OP said he is routing from the bottom.
That would be negative.
Rout out the recess from the top. The insert sits in the recess and comes flush to the top of the bench top..

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#14 posted 02-27-2015 07:24 PM

Crank,
I hope he understand that.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#15 posted 02-27-2015 07:42 PM


WOW thanks for the quick responses. Lots of good ideas too.

If i were to recess the bottom of the top. how much material would you recommend i leave between the bottom of the countersunk holes to the bottom of the table? do i need the bottom piece of BB ply or with the MDF be ok by itself?

I am going to mostly use a 1.75 HP Milwaukee router (5615?) in the table and maybe my Bosch 1617.

- RT31

Looks like there’s a bunch of confusion here. Are you routing a big recess in the underside of the table so that you can bolt the router directly to the table underside? Or, are you planning on putting an insert plate in the table (and routing a rabbet around the perimeter of the hole in the table to support the plate)?

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

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