|Forum topic by Luke||posted 05-20-2009 06:37 AM||2501 views||1 time favorited||11 replies|
05-20-2009 06:37 AM
Okay, I’ve searched the internet for this info and I just can’t seem to find it and I think it should be out there so I’ll ask my questions and hope for the best…
I just bought a LN low angle adjustable block plane and I am in love. I’ve had a buck bros POS and a USA made POS block plane and they both basically need to be thrown in the garbage. I don’t care how much tuning you do to those they will only be just good enough for a mediocre woodworker who doesn’t know good quality when he sees it anyways. The blades are much to thin and chatter due to crappy blade/ poor workmanship/ crappy materials is so bad even after sole flattening and tuning that they WILL destroy your good workpieces the moment you use them.
Anyways I digress because I had so many issues trying to get them to work and finally figured out that they were S#!t and they needed to go away. It’s too bad that you can’t start out at the top with tools because you’d learn so much quicker to know the difference. Apprentice in a quality woodworkers shop and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Life is not the same after that.
My main question. When actually using the tool I have to make depth adjustments…. Do you loosen the large nut holding the iron down and then adjust the depth or do you just adjust the depth with the hold down tight? It seems like it doesn’t want to move unless you loosen the large dial first. I hate to sit there and scrape the top of the blade with the hold down wheel while cranking to move the blade. It just doesn’t seem natural. Unless that’s just how it is done. Adjustments are so difficult when you have to loosen the wheel and then adjust while trying not to rack or move the blade. Unless of course that is the way that it is done.
Or do I just loosen the wheel a LITTLE and then move the blade? It seems difficult and not good still, but again ,if that’s how it is done then w/e, thats fine.
Second and final issue. It is very important to get the blade exactly parallel to the sole of the plane. If you don’t do this every time you set the blade. after a couple of slices you will start to create a bevel to one side or the other and that can ruin your piece as it did on my last project. When you go to FIX the bevel problem you may end up taking off too much material and having to cut another piece. Luckily for me the LN takes off thous at a time and can take 20 passes to remove a 32nd. Sweet! You need to take out a good square and place it against the side of the plane with the blade(of the square) set over the mouth and along the blade and line up the plane blade with the square blade. Don’t get me started on how to do this if the edge of the plane is not at 90 degrees. Hence the lovely perfection of a LN plane.
Funny thing is I looked every where to find out about how to actually use a hand plane. I looked on google… Looked at many many podcasts on the subject… and youtube too… main things I found. How to lap the sole. sharpen the blade, duh, file things down. set it correctly but nothing about what I mention here. Maybe I’m crazy but that is a huge problem for me personally. If I could figure this out I be a happier person. Even if someone just tells me that I just have to do it what ever way. Great, at least I don’t feel like an idiot.
Please help, I need someone who really knows how to use planes to explain the processes of these two issues.
Thanks in advance guys… and girls…..
-- LAS, http://www.abettersign.com