need craftsmen dovetail jig help

I’m not sure if this will work, but could the bit be seated less deeply into the collet. You might be able to gain about 1/4”. Or, you could shorten the guide collar, slightly, by cutting it with a hack saw.

I would not grind anything off of the bit. It might weaken the carbide connection or make the bit out of balance.

These jigs are very difficult to get set up . If possible replace it or even make another Jig I believe I saw a home made one a LJer had made.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/16652

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

You don’t mention what “it” is?
Do you have a picture of the jig as I don’t have a clue what model you are refering to.
17/32” dosen’t relate to anything?
It has to be from somewhere to somewhere.

Could you link your request to a website showing the jig?

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

here is the jig I am talking about.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902579000P?keyword=dovetail

the 17/32” is the “recommended height of the bit in referance to the base.

The main problem is that if I lower the bit it cuts into the guide collar. I do not see any way to make the jig work besides grinding on the dovetail bit to make it seat further into the collor (that way the bit will not cut into the collar).
I have tried shortening the guide collar (adding washers to make the collar rife lower in the router) but then the collar does not ride in the dovetail template correctly and makes the jopints so loose they are completly unusable.

If you are referring to the comb as the guide bar I can see two wing nuts to adjust the height of this part.
Normally these types of jigs are built to be used with 3/4” thick lumber.
Raising the comb so that the lumber fits under it should take care of positioning the bit. It should cut about 17/32” thru the front lumber and the same with the peice that is horizontal. ( half blind joint)
These jigs are notoriusly hard to work with so I suggest you practice lots and out of earshot of little children.

You may want to get a Dovetail saw and a couple of chisels if you want to learn how it’s done and do it more quickly. ( search dovetails here and you shouldget lots of hits)
Unless you are doing a production run even the more expensive ones are time conlsuming to set up.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

I can not find the reference, however i believe that you can downlosd manuals from sears parts. There is also a place that has all kinds of manuals. Do a search on Yahoo for Craftsman parts manuals
I think that yu can try this:http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/craftsman-tool-manuals.html

-- Saved, and so grateful, consider who Created it ALL!!!

I had the same problem on my jig, I just ground down the guide bushing to about 1/16” height. Works fine for what it is I guess, but I really am not a big fan of the jig. Too finicky and hard to set up for anything but a LOT of drawers. Usually saw and chisel time when dovetails are called for, plus it adds a bit of character if your dovetails are spaced in interesting ways (not all exactly the same).

-- Ooo, er.

Save yourself a lot of hassle and grief. Scrap the Craftsman; I did a long time ago. Look into the Porter Cable jig or if you have a bunch of extra cash laying around and want a great jig get the 24” Leigh. It does every thing but super thin dovetails. The learning curve is a bit steep but worth it to do great machine cut dovetails.

-- Les B, Oregon

Les B is on the right track. I didn’t mention my Leigh 24” jig because I figured youwer not into that kind of investment.
p.s. Learn to cut them by hand first.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

I tried to get the jig to work again last night but I gave up after an hour or two. I like to spend my time in the woodshop working with wood not setting up tools. I plan on doing 11 drawers and figure that by the time I get this thing working I could have cut them all by hand. I will try and grind down the collar when I finish the dresser as a “one last try”. If that dies not work I will probably toss it into the trash. If I had actually paid money for that jig I would be upset over it. The hand cut dovetails sound good to me. I have a set of chisels but despretly need some sharpening stones. If anyone is selling some at a good price let me know.

Search on this site for Scary Sharp and you will see a low cost method of sharpening that will fit your budget and give a great edge.
It uses sandpaper, contact glue and glass slabs with an inexpensive blade guide.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

I bought a Porter Cable 4212 dovetail jig (also got a 4215 miniature dovetail/bo joint template a few weeks ago. My first attempt at making box joints with it went great. I was able to fine tune the adjustments to make perfect joints in 2 tries. For me, that is a major accomplishment. The instruction manual was ok, but there is a supplemental manual that can be downloaded that is really good.

There are also some great posts and links on this site that helped a lot.

-- Joe

Grind, sand or file down your guide bushing collar. They can be purchased in various sizes (depths). I purchased a PC set several years ago and they have a 1/4” and a 1/8” tall collar for each size. Also make sure that you have the correct diameter collar for the specific bit that you are using.

-- NorthWoodsMan

I had this same jig -it’s somewhere in the cellar…Bought a 24” PC which is very good, and now I cut them by hand. I enjoy it more. I enjoy not having high pitched noises blocking out my Supertramp or The Doors…The Craftsman jig is why I save and save and save to get something worth using.

-- Elaine, Conover, NC

It is a sad state for the craftsman line of tools when a jig that costs a little over a hundred dollars does not even work.

I personally make a habit of never buying my tools from stores that sell ladies undergarments. <g>

Your mileage may vary.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner