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Looking for advice on a new Table Saw

6K views 47 replies 31 participants last post by  knotscott 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm wanting to get a new table saw. I have a portable craftsman from Sears and while this has actually been a good saw the negatives are getting too much to overcome. I have a limited shop space so it has to be portable or easily moved around. I need a universal miter slot (since the craftsman was not) and would like decent rip capacity. There are so many different options on the market so I'm looking for help to narrow down my choices. Thanks.
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey b guy
I think that you should always buy a Saw stop for saftey. But if your budget will not allow $2000 plus
My choice for a lower cost saw would be a ridgid now the model I looked at for a student of mine might have been discontuned and the one they have now is a new ridgid with a slate top and riving knife. I'm not a convert to slate table tops but if the fence moved and locks like the older model then I would say give it a look I think they are in the $600 range. I know lots of hobbiest like sears pretty low on my list. I would also look in grizzly products I've have good luck with there tools and they have resonable prices. The detail I really think is first and formost is a good fence. Its hard to try that on line. then next is power and you have to really forcuse on whether it's 110 or 220 if you only have 110 . I would try to see any saw your going to get in person and for a lot of people that's sears, jet,or delta all at some sort of local store. of course there is the used market also, I know Don has one of the Ridgids I recomend for sale but I don't know how close you are to him.

Don http://lumberjocks.com/Ottis
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yah, yah, yah, gotta have a sawstop or you'll cut your fingers off! $2000 is the low side: plan on $2500 for a sawstop contactor's saw. [/sarcasm]

Right now, with Ridgid switching to the granite tops, HD is offering the old cast iron Ridgid (TS3660) saws at ~$400. Great bang for the buck in a new saw! Lower than that, you are looking at used.
 
#6 ·
woodchuck was right, Saw Stop Saw Stop Saw Stop Saw Stop Saw Stop

I can see where it gets tiring.

How about this?

UniSaw UniSaw UniSaw UniSaw UniSaw UniSaw UniSaw ;)

Now for something a little more constructive. What price range are you looking at?
 
#8 ·
In the area of price of course I want to only spend about $500 but what's the old saying you get what you paid for. This is why I have the craftsman. I would really like to keep the price under a grand. I'm looking at the older Rigid (if I can find one), Grizzly for sure, maybe a Jet and I have even seen some decent reviews for the Hitachi. I need 110v and really need the option to make the saw mobile with a base or something and I really want to be able to have universal parts in the regard of miter guage and zero clearance plate that my craftsman really doesn't offer.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
I like my ridgid but with the new saws having riving knives I think I would go that way and forget the close out savings. I find myself running without a splitter more often than I should and if I had a riving knife I would use it. I believe there are new laws that are forcing riving knives on new saw designs. Weather thats true or not you can see that new contractor saws are coming with riving knives now and I wish I could have one.

PS the herculift system makes moving a ridgid a breeze.
 
#12 ·
I'll jump on the bandwagon too. I have the rigid 3660 also. It's been trouble free and very accurate in the 5 years of daily use/abuse I have given it. Riving knife or not, it's a great saw. If you know how to use a table saw, the new safety features are only mildly helpful anyways.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
A traditional contractor saw with the motor hanging out the back will consume more floor space than almost any other standard full size saw. A cabinet saw or hybrid require less space with the same table surface. A portable jobsite saw requires even less space, but you give up all the advantages of size, mass/stability, reliability, and noise levels that a full size saw offers.

I'd add the Steel City 35920, Ridgid R4511, or Craftsman 22114 to your list of possibilities in the $650 and under….all hybrid formats, all with cabinet mounted trunnions, all have standard miter slots. The SC and Ridgid come with a riving knife, mobile bases, and granite tops….the 22114 will require a separate mobile base, uses a traditional splitter, has as cast iron top, and accepts Delta throat inserts.
 
#17 ·
I have a brand new, unopened, Rigid R4511 if your interested. I bought two and, of course, only need one. I have $550 in it after tax. You can have it for that if you want. I don't know where you live, but I am just outside Orlando, FL.
 
#19 ·
Baldy ;-) (So am I…)

If you have 500.00 to start, I vote save your money, be patient, SCOUR craigslist, and pick up a used unisaw. I just got one for 550.00. You'll add about xtra for gas to get it, and an electrian for the phase converter(unless you find one retrofitted), but when you have 3 horses+ honkn' through your wood, you'll be a happy camper compared to a contracters saw.

Use crazedlist

GOOD LUCK!
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
I had the Bosch 4100, and although its safety features are hard to beat (the easiest to use I've seen in any saw under $2000) it is lacking in precision and heft. I find that the aluminum top is far from being flat enough for fine woodworking - great for construction, or rough cuts though. table top although largest in the mobile saws is still somewhat small, and because of it's being aluminum, and the saw being light, is not quite supportive when you work with larger pieces.

I did replace it with the granite top Ridgid saw - and could not be happier. the saw is stout, precise, easy to tune and align, easy to work with, and powerful enough for my needs. it also works on 110v out of the box, and can be converted to 220v should the need/opportunity arises. it's also on the lower cost of all the saws in this range.

I could have gone with a used Unisaw - but not having 220v at the moment, and the lack of a riving knife, shied me away from it - I don't have any problem with that.
 
#23 ·
If I were you, I would spend a couple hundred more, and get the Grizzly G0661. It is a left tilt contractor, with a riving knife. The reason I chose this one, instead of the cheaper contractor saws they offer if two fold:
1. It has cast iron wings, which won't bend when you have a wider, heavier panel you are trying to cut to final size. My Delta contractor had steel wings, and once I took them off, and put cast iron wings on it, it became a much more valuable/useful tool.
2. The rip fence is similar to a Delta T2, or a Biesmeier, which makes making tablesaw jigs easier to design and use, and it is a much more accurate/adjustable fence.
Just my 2 cents! It's also on sale!!

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-2-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-riving-knife/G0661
 
#24 ·
It's worth mentioning that the Grizzly G0661 that Matt mentioned has a belt drive induction motor housed inside the enclosure….more like a hybrid saw that a traditional contractor saw.
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Rigid TS 3660 if you want:

a) a new TS
b) not to spend over $400 US (Mine is $499 Cdn at HD)
c) one of the best mobile bases
d) dead on factory settings (90 degrees, 45, accurate fence, etc.)
e) life time warranty
f) nothing to do with granite top so you can use magic magnet accessories
g) the traditional splitter / paws instead of riving knife
h) want to wait until sawstop's price has come down a lot

Bonus: its grooved belt is a lot more efficient the V belt - saving you $ and the need to buy a link belt

Did I sound like a Rigid tools salesman?

I wish I had my few months old Rigid 5 years earlier!
 
#26 ·
hey bald guy,

i dont have too much of my own to offer, but i'll be interested to see what you decide and most importantly, WHY. I'm in the same situation - cheap, difficult, annoying, and frustrating craftsman TS. mine's the 21805 and… it appears we have the same one! I'm now also interested to know more details about how you dealt with its foibles (horrible horrible fence, those awful miter slots, unstable blade tilt lock, impossible throat plate assembly, etc!) since I'll be having mine for a while yet. but i have similar constraints as you too in terms of space and $.

not that my opinion is worth much, since I dont speak from personal experience, but: I have been finding the Ridgid models appealing in terms of newer equipment. as far as used goes, those unisaws appear to be worth serious consideration as well. I'd definitely be looking for:

the best fence
cast iron top
belt driven

but I think you'll find those as soon as you step into the contractor/hybrid $400+ range… which is where you are.

anyway, best of luck on your hunt!
 
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