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Cutting Butler's Table Hinge Gains

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Forum topic by RoccoPeterbilt posted 05-11-2009 09:43 PM 2245 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RoccoPeterbilt

15 posts in 2913 days


05-11-2009 09:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: milling router chisel question

There has to be someone on here who has built a Butler’s Table

I just started one. I have the leaf’s cut to shape and will begin the table top and the frame tomorow. Until then, I am trying to figure out how to cut the hinge gains.
The hinges are thicker in the middle (.375”) and thinner here the screws attach (.1875”) I tried drilling the round portion of the gain with a 1.5” forstner bit, but it left about .0625” of play at the sides. It also proved to be a chore cutting the remaining area with a chisel and I was getting a lot of tear out.

I have a CNC Router, which is my next step, but I hate to do that as lining it up each time and finding a ZERO point is a pain.

Anyone got any tips?

-- Junk is junk, at any cost.


5 replies so far

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#1 posted 05-11-2009 09:48 PM

I would say useing a chisel to sneek up on it is the best choice. If you get tear out then your chisel is not sharp enough.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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lew

11347 posts in 3222 days


#2 posted 05-11-2009 09:57 PM

I have built several.

Made a jig to route both halves at the same time. I’ll take a picture and post it. Maybe it will give you some ideas.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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lew

11347 posts in 3222 days


#3 posted 05-11-2009 11:14 PM

The templates and jigs were made from 1/4” luan and 3/4” oak scrap and used a 7/16” collar and 5/16” straight bit (only ones I had at the time).

The first template part is used to rout the overall shape of the hinge. The table and the leaf are positioned as they would be once assembled and both leaf and table are routed at the same time. I use a 1/8” drill bit to space the leaf and table the correct distance apart before clamping them and the template together.

The depth of this first cut is set by using a scrap piece of laun and the oak jig/pattern in the first picture.

After the first router cut, the overall shape of the hinge is set. Without changing the large template, I insert the the pattern for the center cut.

Using the same bit/collar, readjust the depth using the oak pattern/jig and the laun scrap and route the center area for the spring.

Finally, remove the large insert (the LEAF can be removed but take care not to change the position of the jig on the table top). Replace the larger insert with the smaller insert and readjust the depth of cut for the hinge barrel. Carefully route the barrel relief. I remove the leaf before routing and use a piece of scrap to support the jig. At this point I don’t want to take a change of ruining the leaf!

Of course, each hinge has to be done separately, but at least the setup completes the entire hinge before moving on to the next.

Hope this helps.

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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RoccoPeterbilt

15 posts in 2913 days


#4 posted 05-18-2009 04:08 PM

Actually, it helps a lot Lew. Appreciate your advice as well Jim, but I must just not be good enough with a chisel. I am thinking about using a CNC router to do the job, but I know it is going to be a bit of a pain to set-up. I am going to try and make some patterns like yours and see what i can get that way. I was lucky enough to have the leaves come out really nice the first time and I am afraid to screw them up.

-- Junk is junk, at any cost.

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RoccoPeterbilt

15 posts in 2913 days


#5 posted 05-18-2009 04:23 PM

Oh, Lew jave you noticed that a 1 – 1/2” forstner bit makes a hole too big compared to the rounded part?

-- Junk is junk, at any cost.

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