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Grizzly/Ridgid 14" bandsaw parts interchangeable?

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Forum topic by jimball posted 02-20-2015 07:08 PM 1486 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jimball

14 posts in 659 days


02-20-2015 07:08 PM

I’ve got a Ridgid BS14002 that I’m getting frustrated with trying to eliminate vibration. I’ve read every old forum thread and watched every Youtube video I could find on the subject of turning the Ridgid paint shaker into a smooth running bandsaw. I’ve about convinced myself that the 0.015” concentric runout on the lower wheel is the problem.

Balancing the wheels, mounting urethane tires, replacing the V-belt with a link belt and completely replacing the steel frame base with a heavy wood cabinet helped, but it still vibrates. I do not want to gamble on another Ridgid lower wheel and am wondering if any of the Grizzly 14” wheels will fit.

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.


17 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 953 days


#1 posted 02-20-2015 07:45 PM

take off the blade and try to true it up while it’s running?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#2 posted 02-20-2015 08:56 PM



take off the blade and try to true it up while it s running?

- TheFridge

Can you elaborate a bit, please?

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

View Minorhero's profile

Minorhero

372 posts in 2072 days


#3 posted 02-20-2015 09:07 PM

Sorry not aware of any, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any. How much vibration are we talking about? Its a lightweight 14” bandsaw. It will never perform as well as the most basic 20”. If you turned it on and held a piece of wood flat on the table with the weight of your hand does it remain on the table? Or does it literally vibrate off no matter how you try to hold it in place? If the later you obviously need work. If the former then congratulations, you have arrived. Use it as a bandsaw and rejoice.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1887 posts in 1601 days


#4 posted 02-20-2015 09:11 PM

I hope someone can provide you with answer to your question but might also look at this Grizzly model.

Hopefully manual will help you. Before replacing the lower wheel at $75 plus shipping have you considered using a linked belt verus v-belt? Or replacing that bearing?

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0580_m.pdf

If getting vibration when cutting could be the blade.

-- Bill

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jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#5 posted 02-20-2015 09:29 PM


I hope someone can provide you with answer to your question but might also look at this Grizzly model.

Hopefully manual will help you. Before replacing the lower wheel at $75 plus shipping have you considered using a linked belt verus v-belt? Or replacing that bearing?

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0580_m.pdf

If getting vibration when cutting could be the blade.

- Wildwood


The vibration is present any time the saw is turned on.
I’ve got a linked belt and urethane tires installed already.
Here’s a video: (note: I state in the video that I replaced the wooden base when I actually meant to say I replaced the metal base with a wooden cabinet.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQiSq9HikdU

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

View jimball's profile

jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#6 posted 02-20-2015 09:33 PM


Sorry not aware of any, but that doesn t mean there aren t any. How much vibration are we talking about? Its a lightweight 14” bandsaw. It will never perform as well as the most basic 20”. If you turned it on and held a piece of wood flat on the table with the weight of your hand does it remain on the table? Or does it literally vibrate off no matter how you try to hold it in place? If the later you obviously need work. If the former then congratulations, you have arrived. Use it as a bandsaw and rejoice.

- Minorhero

A 20” bandsaw is more than I will ever need. I have been lusting after one of the Grizzly 17” or 19” Extreme series bandsaws, but it’s not in the budget right now. I’ve spent too much money in recent months buying and building specialized guitar making tools and jigs.
There’s a link to a Youtube video in my post above. It shows the vibration.

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

809 posts in 2316 days


#7 posted 02-20-2015 11:43 PM

Perhaps a stupid question, because you’ve gone to alot of work, but I don’t see any other blades on the wall, so i’ll ask, have you replaced the stock blade? I’ve got the grey version of the BS & mine won’t pass the nickel test at start up but it’ll stand fine while the saw is running. Does the top of the saw dance like that without the blade in place? It’s really movin’ and the stock blade had such a bad weld on mine it would hop a bit like that.

FWIW $.02

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View jimball's profile

jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#8 posted 02-20-2015 11:55 PM


Perhaps a stupid question, because you ve gone to alot of work, but I don t see any other blades on the wall, so i ll ask, have you replaced the stock blade? I ve got the grey version of the BS & mine won t pass the nickel test at start up but it ll stand fine while the saw is running. Does the top of the saw dance like that without the blade in place? It s really movin and the stock blade had such a bad weld on mine it would hop a bit like that.

FWIW $.02

- ChefHDAN


Note the 6” riser. ;) fwiw, the 105” blade supplied with the riser kit is not exactly of the highest quality either. :P
It’s running a Timberwolf 3 TPI at the moment. I have several blades. I just do not hang them on the wall behind the saw. :D
No the saw does not dance around like that with the blade off. There is still some vibration in the lower frame though.

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

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ChefHDAN

809 posts in 2316 days


#9 posted 02-21-2015 12:18 AM

Yeah, I runh the 105” with my riser too & I’m on the steel base with a herc lift mobile base.

Aways back I bent the upper shaft hinge, running a 3/4” blade to cut green white oak blanks. The replacment part I got from Ridgid weighed almost 2x what the original part weighed. Your saw was produced after mine but if the assembly feels like light cheap cast aluminum, I would wonder if that could be part of the issue.

Of course most here will say your problem is that the name RIDGID is stamped on the saw, but that’s another rant, ;-) I mean thread

Good luck!

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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firefighterontheside

13520 posts in 1323 days


#10 posted 02-21-2015 01:26 AM

I had an older buffalo saw that shook like yours. I never tried to fix it. I just used it for a year or so and recently got a different one. If it doesn’t shake when the blade is off that suggests something wrong with the upper wheel.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#11 posted 02-21-2015 01:30 AM


Yeah, I runh the 105” with my riser too & I m on the steel base with a herc lift mobile base.

Aways back I bent the upper shaft hinge, running a 3/4” blade to cut green white oak blanks. The replacment part I got from Ridgid weighed almost 2x what the original part weighed. Your saw was produced after mine but if the assembly feels like light cheap cast aluminum, I would wonder if that could be part of the issue.

Of course most here will say your problem is that the name RIDGID is stamped on the saw, but that s another rant, ;-) I mean thread

Good luck!

- ChefHDAN

I have a Ridgid floor model drill press and a rare granite top Ridgid table saw that I just love. Had I done my research in 2009, I would have passed on the lure of low price and spent a little more on a Grizzly. Heck, I’m only 90 miles from the Springfield, Mo. store!

I worked on the saw a little more this evening: I tried sanding the lower tire to reduce the .015” out of round I measured yesterday. I got it down to only .004-.005” out of round. It helped the problem a great deal! The saw will now ‘almost’ pass the nickel test. It’ll let a nickel balance on edge for a few seconds. I also decided to find out if a squealing bearing was going bad, or just the axle rubbing on something. I trashed the snap ring getting the lower axle out, but did find that one of the lower bearings has a rattle to it when I shake it. Two new bearings on order!

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

809 posts in 2316 days


#12 posted 02-21-2015 02:53 PM

I guess I just got lucky on mine $200 NIB on clearance from HD added a link belt, center shelf to steel base, good blades, and a recent ugrade to kreg fence, (sold the Ridgid one), saw works great for my needs.

Sounds like you’re about there, but what a journey.

BTW, Welcome to LJ!

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View jimball's profile

jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#13 posted 02-21-2015 04:47 PM



I guess I just got lucky on mine $200 NIB on clearance from HD added a link belt, center shelf to steel base, good blades, and a recent ugrade to kreg fence, (sold the Ridgid one), saw works great for my needs.

Sounds like you re about there, but what a journey.

BTW, Welcome to LJ!

- ChefHDAN

Yeah, the Ridgid has a reputation for being hit or miss on quality control. Some people have ones that run perfectly smooth from the beginning, some tune up very easy, and others like mine emulate a paint shaker. Ridgid has replaced the BS14002 with a different model – someone pointed out that the new one appears to be a clone of the Steel City 14” bandsaw. Still vibration issues though.

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


#14 posted 02-21-2015 06:25 PM



I ve got a Ridgid BS14002 that I m getting frustrated with trying to eliminate vibration. I ve read every old forum thread and watched every Youtube video I could find on the subject of turning the Ridgid paint shaker into a smooth running bandsaw. I ve about convinced myself that the 0.015” concentric runout on the lower wheel is the problem.

Balancing the wheels, mounting urethane tires, replacing the V-belt with a link belt and completely replacing the steel frame base with a heavy wood cabinet helped, but it still vibrates. I do not want to gamble on another Ridgid lower wheel and am wondering if any of the Grizzly 14” wheels will fit.

- jimball


Sir you bought a RIDGID Power wood working tool! Live with it, or sell it to some schoom and get a grizzly.

I have seen this BS out and was waiting to hear from someone that has gotten one. I am sorry to hear about your issues with this BS but everyone knows 3 things..

1) If you buy a RIDGID wood working tool there is a high probability it not going to work correctly or at all.

2) If you stick with your RIDGID tool your going to have to replace most of the important parts to make the thing work at least CLOSE to where you can use it.

3) If the COPS got to come get you, They are gunna bring a ass kicking with em…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QR465HoCWFQ

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View jimball's profile

jimball

14 posts in 659 days


#15 posted 02-21-2015 07:20 PM


I ve got a Ridgid BS14002 that I m getting frustrated with trying to eliminate vibration. I ve read every old forum thread and watched every Youtube video I could find on the subject of turning the Ridgid paint shaker into a smooth running bandsaw. I ve about convinced myself that the 0.015” concentric runout on the lower wheel is the problem.

Balancing the wheels, mounting urethane tires, replacing the V-belt with a link belt and completely replacing the steel frame base with a heavy wood cabinet helped, but it still vibrates. I do not want to gamble on another Ridgid lower wheel and am wondering if any of the Grizzly 14” wheels will fit.

- jimball

Sir you bought a RIDGID Power wood working tool! Live with it, or sell it to some schoom and get a grizzly.

I have seen this BS out and was waiting to hear from someone that has gotten one. I am sorry to hear about your issues with this BS but everyone knows 3 things..

1) If you buy a RIDGID wood working tool there is a high probability it not going to work correctly or at all.

2) If you stick with your RIDGID tool your going to have to replace most of the important parts to make the thing work at least CLOSE to where you can use it.

3) If the COPS got to come get you, They are gunna bring a ass kicking with em…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QR465HoCWFQ

- Garbanzolasvegas

I admit to not doing any research before buying this saw in 2009 and buying based on price alone. My other two Ridgid power tools have performed excellently. My Grizzly planer, jointer & lathe are excellent. Hindsight is 20/20, and I would have been money ahead to buy one of the better Grizzly 14” models. I’ve almost cured the vibration issues, and will have a great bandsaw when done. I’ve used the saw for over five years, so it’s not like it was worthless junk all this time.

-- Of all the things I make in my shop, sawdust and wood chips are the most common.

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