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| Forum topic by Dave | posted 1471 days ago | 8756 views | 1 time favorited | 35 replies | ![]() |
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1471 days ago |
I went to Home Depot the other day and they had this R4511 table saw for $524 ($75 instant rebate from $599). Keep a sharp blade ! Dave -- You gotta laugh a little... |
35 replies so far
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#1 posted 1471 days ago |
Lots of folks here have the Rigid. I have one and love it but, mine is cast not granit. A couple of folks here have the new one. Give them a little time to find your post and you will likely get their input -- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill |
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#2 posted 1471 days ago |
The latest craze here is spending atleast $3 K on a SawStop table saw. It’s a must when your makeing a whopping $5 an hour in this crafty trade for fools, but ya look good doin it., well, ya think ya do, then reality sets in. |
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#3 posted 1471 days ago |
It seems to be a decently designed saw for the money. I’ve seen positive reviews of it around. Its similar to the Craftsman Hybrids (Zip Code Says as they’re reffered to) with a solid arbor casting without the tie bars meaning less alignment issues. |
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#4 posted 1471 days ago |
The granite is the thing I don’t like. you can’t use magnetic feather boards. -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#5 posted 1471 days ago |
I have to say the granite makes me shy away. I know granite kitchen counters need regular sealing, can be etched by liquids with acid in them (juice) and also stain not to mention they can chip and potentially crack. -- Les B, Oregon |
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#6 posted 1471 days ago |
PurpLev and I (glassyeyes) have the saw; PurpLev’s done a nice series on the assembly and tricking out of the saw. I’ll put some of my comments, written somewhat in a diary format, here. PRO’s: Very heavy due to granite top and fairly beefy trunnions; “passes the nickel test” Table-mounted trunnions; blade-to-slot and fence-to-slot adjustments easier Arbor flange runout of less than 1/1000th inch Closed cabinet, good dust collection Passable T-style fence Herc-U-Lift mobile base Motor power acceptable/not dazzling CON’s VERY TOP HEAVY—and just plain heavy at about 450 lbs; dangerous to assemble alone Assembly directions aren’t that good, assuming at times you’ll puzzle it out. Some diagrams aren’t to scale, and many parts that should have been tagged weren’t (such as those on the Herc-U-Lift), but this is hopefully a once-in-a-lifetime problem. Marginal level of quality control on the granite top assembly system Split fence offers no mechanical support for the wings at the rear (fixable) and inspires less confidence at the front, where alignment of the rail halves depends on a silly little plastic ring and the screws thru the bottom angle iron to hold them in exact alignment. The longer I use it, the less I like it. A carefully planed hardwood spline helped stiffen the two-piece front rail. The saw only comes with a splitter/guard, no riving knives, but it’s already set up to take them. Riving knives (from Steel City for the 35900 series saws) fit, but there have been minor issues. Part # SC10150 for the 2.5 mm knife, SC10151 for the 3.0 mm Phone # to order Steel City parts: 1-877-724-8665 Recommendation? I’d have to give it a qualified one, to be sure. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. The Steel City, for example, so similar it may be made in the same plant, includes the riving knives and appears to include the removable fence faces, making up for the $50 difference in price. -- Now, where did I put those bandaids? |
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#7 posted 1471 days ago |
I have this saw also and agree with glasseyes observations. My biggest complaint is the split front and rear rails for the fence but I made my own 72” front and rear rails now it glides ever so smoothly and I have a 44” rip capacity, also added riving knives. The top is very heavy and the granite is not for everybody, I chipped mine but was able to repair it. The power seem to be adequate, I have ripped 2×12x8 SYP lumber and it did fine. -- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement. |
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#8 posted 1471 days ago |
When is a 1 1/2 hp, wired for 240V not enough ? And since when does a 3 hp Industrial cabinet saw become manditory in a hobby shop ? |
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#9 posted 1471 days ago |
Lesb, That 2.5 on the Craftsman is not actually 2.5 |
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#10 posted 1471 days ago |
Marc, say it ain’t so. lol |
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#11 posted 1471 days ago |
Woodchuck – You just can’t help but add a good word, huh? -- It's better to have people think you're stupid rather than open your mouth and remove all doubt. |
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#12 posted 1471 days ago |
‘say it ain’t so’ ... haha – good one ;o) – yeah, those HP ratings on the direct drives are sometimes annoying since you can’t really compare them to the belt driven saws – way off. Dave – add a $3 18gauge pack of pneumatic nails – and you have the saw for $450 + tax… go to home deopt – NOW. PS. Thanks for everyone for the references to my blogs… always glad to see it can help -- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route. |
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#13 posted 1471 days ago |
Mike, I see your back to your stalking again. Some people just don’t learn, even after being visited by Texas finest. |
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#14 posted 1470 days ago |
I have used both a 1.5 hp contractors saw (for 20 years) and a 3 hp cabinet saw (the last 12 year) and I will chose the latter every chance I get. Before that I got by with a 10” Craftsman radial arm saw I bought in 1968, which does it all if you have the patients. I still have the radial arm and use it for most of my cross cutting work. -- Les B, Oregon |
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#15 posted 1470 days ago |
Les, I think the 2.5 hp saw he was refering to is a benchtop, Craftsman would NEVER over rate horsepower would they ? While a industrial cabinet saw maybe nice, they don’t allways fall within someones budget or needs. |
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