Quality finish on painted furniture (shelves) using an airless sprayer

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Forum topic by DyerWolf posted 05-06-2009 08:50 PM 2739 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 3275 days

05-06-2009 08:50 PM

Hi – first post here!

I’ve recently build a set of shelves for a friend’s kid’s closet. She would like the shelves finished in a red (we’re using Porter paint’s Advantage 900 semi-gloss latex) paint which I intend to apply using a Graco Magnum X7 airless sprayer (I have the 515 tip).

I’ve never painted furniture using an airless sprayer (I bought it to paint my garage…). I’d like to make sure the finish is as close to professional or commercial grade as I can, and I’ve read that airless sprayers have an advantage over brush or rolled paint.

The shelves were built from a paint grade maple faced ply and soft maple on the stiles & facing pieces of the shelves (the main body of each shelf is 3/4 ply tounge & groove fitted to a soft maple facing piece). I sanded the shelves smooth to 180 grit.

Yesterday I primed the shelves using the Graco & a grey deep-base Kilz acrylic primer. This morning when I went out to check the primer, I noticed the finish is less than smooth (somewhat like the grain was raised by applying the primer – but more like the paint went on ‘stippled’ – best way to describe it is that it feels more like drywall than smooth painted wood). So I sanded the primer using a 220 grit dry paper. It smoothed off the stippled feel (& a couple of places where I failed to apply the paint as smooth as I should) – but left a less-than-uniform appearance. I’m afraid to proceed without advice.

I want the red finish to be the best I can make it – smooth to the touch & uniform in appearance.

What is the best way to proceed?

3 replies so far

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3 posts in 3275 days

#1 posted 05-06-2009 10:39 PM

Oh – another question:

Can I paint this in one go – or do I need to paint it in stages?

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#2 posted 05-06-2009 10:53 PM

Before painting the whole thing I would paint an area were it had the problem and see what happens. If you have an contaminate problem it’s better to find out before you paint the whole thing. If you still have a problem go over it with a shellac based primer and that will seal out most contaminants. If your very good with and airless I would do a tack coat(a very light coat) and then come back with the top coat.after about 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. If your in a tight space I would go with a turbine set up with a large tip. If you have one available

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3 posts in 3275 days

#3 posted 05-07-2009 02:33 AM


So is 220 grit paper reccomended between coats? Should I go with steel wool?

What about a polyurethane finish coat – necessary?

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